ing3 wrote: "Let me rephrase that, we have had problems with Stihl string trimmers, and blowers". My statements hold true for Stihl trimmers and blowers as well....what kind of problems are your "operators" experiencing.....they are bullet proof. They don't own the majority of the commercial market from owners with down time. Deere is a marvelous company that makes many great machines.....chainsaws in not one of themÂ..In fact they are usually just branded Deere. If you are in the market for an ok consumer grade chainsaw than Deere might be acceptable. If youÂre looking commercial I would say Stihl, Husq or Jonsered, and some of the Echo line. Deere is not in the same league. If youÂre looking consumer/residential grade a better saw for maybe a little more would be husq or echo.

I have a Pella fiberglass entry door, installed 6 years ago. I would disagree that using gel stain is the best way to go, in fact I wouldn't recommend that at all. It looked beautiful when I finished but required varnish every 6 months. Even then it failed miserably this spring. Don't do that, there is a better way. Fortunately, or not, my door delaminated this past month. Fortunately because I was about to strip it and start over again. As it is, Pella provided me a free replacement slab since it is warranted for 10 year. This time I'm using Sikkens Cetol Door and Window stain which does not use a polyurethene varnish topcoat. I found out about it from my neighbor who had the same problems as I with a gel stained/varnished entry door - chipping and peeling varnish. He redid his four years ago with this Sikkens stain and it looks great even now, with no further attention. Sikkens does recommend reapplying one coat after 3 or 4 years but that beats varnishing every six months plus it doesn't chip away like spar varnish. Use Sikkens Door and Window stain instead of gel stain and varnish, seriously. It comes in four or five colors but you won't find it at HD or Lowes - go to their web site and find a paint dealer in your area. Here is a link that might be useful: Sikkens Door and Window stain

zaccaii, I have 1200 sq. ft. of SUPERCore Krypton sitting in my garage. As soon as my husband’s doctor clears him from his surgery we will start to install it. I took the single box I ordered first and clicked it together in my kitchen in front of the stove and sink where I stand for several hours a day. It has a foam pad on the underside and is very comfortable to stand on. I had porcelain and ceramic tile floors in a previous house and there is no comparison. The SUPERCore is very comfortable to stand on to me. If you have reservations, why don’t you order a box and test it out. My husband has a bad back, and I have knee problems so we both wanted a floor that was comfortable to walk and stand on since we are in socks or barefoot in the house.

It is worth pointing out, I think, that the pressure differential across the blower, called pressure loss, is essentially the same whether the blower is in the hood, at the end of the duct outside, or in a door blowing into an otherwise sealed house. The pressure loss is the sum of all the losses due to friction and turbulence in the duct, duct cap where present, hood transitions, baffles, make-up air system restrictions, etc. Any slight differences in pressure loss with blower position will be due to local transitions where the blower is mounted versus the blower's air flow uniformity at the blower exit. The resulting flow rate will be that which applies to that pressure loss on the fan curve plot. Front of hood deposited grease is due to insufficient overlap and/or insufficient air velocity at the hood aperture. Hoods are generally poor at drawing air from the vicinity of the burners. Most plume capture depends on the plume's upward velocity, mainly driven by the buoyancy of hot grease and water vapor and air. The plume naturally expands as it rises, hence hood aperture overlap is desirable.