Bunnygirl is right on the mark. When transplanting any succulent, let the roots/cut stem dry in the air for a few days so that any small injuries harden to prevent fungal infection. Plant in dry soil and do not "water in". Soil should be at least 50% inorganic materials like pumice, perlite, gravel, etc. Do not use sand. Peat retains too much water and should be avoided like the plague! Commercial potting mixes (including those labeled Cactus and Succulent) have too much peat. My basic mix is about 75% pumice. It looks like they are all are infected by fungus, and will certainly die without intervention. The translucent color is a very bad sign. Pull them up immediately and inspect the roots and lower stem. If they are falling apart, and the stem is dark and soft, the only cure is to cut the stem above the rot. This may not be possible for the pups, as I suspect the leaves will fall off the stem leaving nothing to grow, but the parent plant may still be salvageable. After transecting the stem above the rot, let it dry out in the air for three days or more to callous. Then place in DRY soil. You may need to prop up the plant. Do not water until the plant has started to grow new roots, this will take some time (weeks). During this time, water in the lower leaves will be resorbed by the plant. This is natural. Succulents usually have sufficient water reserves to last for months without any water at all. When you see signs of new growth, start watering. Let the soil dry out completely between watering. There is no proper schedule, everything depends too much on your local conditions (heat/humidity/season/latitude/soil composition/etc). The basic rule is: If in Doubt, Don't! This axiom is true for any action, watering, transplanting, fertilizing, etc. Succulents thrive on neglect. The ideal cultural practice is called Benign Neglect. In your case, there is no doubt that intervention is necessary to save your plants. For more aloe care advice, read the Aloe FAQ page here on the site. Good luck! Brad

Yea, I will wait until not only outside temps,but also soil temps are right I figure mid 50s(soil) at least and min 40s-60s air temps,this is for what I call my first tier plants hesperaloe parvaflora, agaves Yucca aloifolia,,gloriosa,rostrata,brightedge,brevifolia,and various other(zone5-6a) cactus and succulents that really should be outside so they don't try to flower indoors like one of my echinocereus is already doing!you know the stuff that(some of them) should not be inside anyway,the second tier stuff starts with(6a?-7b) needle palms, sabals, 7 types of trachys, nannorrhops,dracaena indivisa,cordyline red sensation,finish withC.cerifera W.filifera,livistona and then 4 types of bananas, I guess I'll start with zones5-6 stuff about mid April 6-7b stuff end of April and then bananas begining of May sound more reasonable?like just maybe I've come to my senses!Thanks for talking me down guys!LOL

I'd like to add a picture of my tomatoes too... I have 12 tomatoes in the ground: opalka, yellow pear, chocolate cherry, sweet 100, cherokee chocolate, kbx, cowlick's brandywine, big zac, box car willie, dr wyche's yellow, omar's lebanese and nar. as you can see, i've placed them in cages... do i still have to provide stakes for them or is the cage enough as a support? if i do have to provide a stake, which variety should i stake, or do i have to stake all of them? it'd be nice to know this early so i could provide the necessary stake support before they become bigger. also, which ones usually goes higher than 5'? i know yellow pear, chocolate cherry and sweet 100 does... how about the others? i only have a 5' cage, do i have to top them off when the time comes? thanks for any advice you can give, i'd greatly appreciate it.

Could have been a hanky...I still like them...I have over a hundred old hankies.... Or it could have been a frog...lol..(I no longer like to hold frogs..but I do like the little frogs who grow up in my little water feature outdoors.) patti