That is an older flathead Robin engine. The "85" is just part of the model #, not the year. That may be about right, though. You can look on the deck behind the engine and find a silver tag with the model and serial number of the Snapper deck (as opposed to just the engine) and then look that up the Snapper site to find exactly what you have. You will also find the owner and parts manuals there. Go to www.snapper.com and click "literature." If you have the bag on and the chute is not plugged, the mower should always bag the grass. Your chute just got plugged. This can happen, especially with wet grass. If bagging is your - ahem - bag, then you might want to see what kind of blade you have under there and get the one with the "winglets" that bolt on to provide extra lift. That seems to prevent a lot of clogs by increasing the force through the chute. As for the drive speed lever: no, it should stay in the speed you select. The little bumps on the lever's panel are there to hold in gear, but there should be a spring behing that panel to hold it - maybe that's missing? Or else the adjustment slider down near the driven pulley's bracket is loose, allowing the driven pully to wander on the drive wheel (turntable). The tubing protruding from the side - do you mean from the side of the engine? Maybe that's the oil dipstick tube. I hope you actually have a dipstick in it! Otherwise, I'm having trouble thinking of what it would be. These are good machines that are very serviceable and still are produced new today with few changes (the engines have changed, of course). Especially if you are bagging, there is no reason it won't be productive for you.

Funny you guys should mention the "Z" closure bag. The Snapper I picked off the curb had that particular bag with it. Since I don't bag my clippings but dump them on a compost pile behind the shed in my back yard the large dump door style works better for me. My large dump door bag comes off easily enough for me and the biggest concern is to have the mower engine shut off to avoid a face full of grass from the chute. I use a modified "sling shot" casting system of dumping the bag similar to casting a lure under low hanging branches. I hold the dump door closed with the left hand and with my right hand holding the handle on the chute gate part of the bag I start swinging the bag to the right over the compost pile and at the correct moment let go of the dump door handles. The inertia of the swinging bag causes the mass of grass in the bag to come flying out of the bag onto the mulch pile. While I like the fact that the "Z" closure bag holds more, it just isn't as easy to empty in my application. Oh well, to each their own and since I have both bag styles and they both fit either machine, I can always switch if I decide to bag or need the more accurate method of dumping that the "Z" closure bag affords. Fairyprincess

Nevada, thanks as I am seriously thinking about doing a complete restore of this machine IF the drive can be serviced. The reason I need to know about the engine is that I might even consider a repower unit if need be. The original mower was terrific and out-performed the Honda in every way, so far. It was way lighter, shorter and manoeverable. I can chuck it in the car no problem. It didn't like mowing across the slope and then would occasionally throw oil onto the deck, but that was about all. The little 3.5 had all the guts needed to get the job done. The Honda is great but it probably takes the extra two hp to move the extra weight and I get more wheelspin because of it. Do you know of the proper paint and prep for an aluminum deck? Thanks. Chris

Honda with the GCV-190 and mowers using the Kawi FJ-180 have the most real power. Those two engines have the highest torque ratings, low to mid 8 ft lbs and torque is what does the work in a mower, not HP. However, there are plenty of engines out there, some costing much less that provide all the power anyone needs. Briggs and Tecumseh both have economical flatheads that have all the power most home users ever require. If you're like me you probably like the feel of having the mower pull you along. FWD won't do that. Neither will RWD in the form of Personal pace type systems used on Toro's and LB's. Lot of folks like FWD and Personal pace systems and if they fit your personal preference there is nothing wrong with them. The impression of power though to a large degree is the feel of being pulled or urged along by the mower tugging at your arms. A rear wheel drive with a lock up drive system fits that ticket. My opinion is you need to first look for the mower with a drive system that gives you that feel. Then look at the engine. The above mentioned engines get their torque from being at the top of the heap in displacement along with being modern engines with OHV as well as OHC in the Honda. Efficient in power, emissions and fuel economy. The big advantage with the Honda GCV-190 is it is a consumer engine and very lite. The FJ-180 Kawi is a heavy commercial engine and most often found on heavy commercial mowers. For ultimate in pure power in a light weight home use mower the Honda wins hands down. Last, keep in mind the basics of maintenance. The best mower combo in the world will not perform to expectations if the blade is not kept sharp and the under deck area kept clean. Filters, fuel and oil changes also play in to performance as well as longevity.