It may be best for accessibility options to have a shower curtain. If your mother gets to the point where she needs assistance, shower doors will be a hindrance since the opening will never be more than about 34" Also consider grab bars: if you are redrywalling and such put wood blocking behind the walls so grab bars can be added. Consider doing a pedestal sink with separate storage. Or, I got a 30" Kraftmaid vanity will all plywood construction for $169 + $100 delivery. It was new surplus. The lighting may have to be brighter than you would use yourself. Consider overlighting the bath a bit and putting it on a dimmer. She may also like a heat lamp.

Building codes and get those municipal construction notices if necessary. Dumpster rental? Haul? I would talk to city/town first and find out what needs to be legally. Then: Walls. Insulation. Moisture barriers. Check for mold. Electrical upgrades. (wiring for appliances, lighting, supply sockets) Ventilation. Heat/AC supplies/returns. Then plumbing. Not sure if you are going to pre-purchase large items before install? Just be sure to measure width/depth and mark on subflooring just where everything is going. Do you have room for the elongated toilet seat when opening the door? Things like this. I don't know how many times I was sent back to get the right item once the wrong one just didn't fit. Some distributors will charge a restock fee for returned items. Be warned. :) Walls - taping, sealing, prime and paint/finish. This is when - after all is dry and looking wonderful - fans and lights too, are installed. Be sure as rain where they are to be placed. Once the hole is there in the ceiling...if it needs to be moved -- you will notice patching. Switch plates, etc. (might want to buy TWO of them, if one gets ruined) Some say floor next. (Heating in floor?) I say install tub/toilet/sink. Run the water to be sure there is no leaking/sealing probs. More than one time a nice floor has been ruined due to leaks between the sub and the flooring. Then tile or whatever. Vanity can be placed on top of flooring and probably should if you decide to change from vanity to pedestal type later. Unless you rip out the old flooring and start over... your choice. Then light fixtures. Once all the huge hammers, ladders, etc have been removed :) Broke a glass to a lamp during install that could not be returned or replaced due to it being on clearance. Had to change out the entire light fixture :(. Still sad about that but it looks ok. Hope all goes well and you have no uh-ohs at all that can't be cared for quickly. Getting ready to do a tiny reno on my upstairs bath too after the estimates from local companies went way over budget. OUCH! Glad the one downstairs is done but that light fixture!! ;) Remember, perhaps to buy 2 of some items, in the off chance something breaks during install. Just a suggestion. Video for later. Always fun to watch once it is done. Have fun! :)

Hi. The inside of your house looks a lot like the inside of my house. I have a new closet that has about the same configuration as yours, but mine is finished and has bypass doors. I also borrowed space from an adjoining bedroom to create the closet. The contractor built shelves in one half and there's a rod and shelf in the other half. I like it and can't wait to move into it. My old bathroom was demo'ed and is now being drywalled. I can finally get a sense of how it will be laid out when it's done. It is my only full bath so I am going over to my mom's for showers or washing in the kitchen sink. Thank heavens there is a powder room on the first floor. Good luck with your new bath. It looks like a wonderful layout, and it's fun to see the pictures. Cute little boy, too!

I'm not sure where you live, but we gutted and remodeled three bathrooms (including moving walls and moving plumbing in the concrete base), replaced two picture windows, knocked out a window and wall to install a large double door, and replaced every door and door hardware in the house...all for $60,000 in the Texas Hill Country. We did not have any plans, but this was not our first remodel. We found the best GC in the area, waited until we could get on his schedule, and went for it. He came in, we waived our arms around and he took notes. It came out perfectly. I lived in the house during the remodel, so that cost more for them to not gut all the bathrooms at one time. Here are a few tips. Trust your GC to have a good shower installer. As mentioned above, be sure to look at the wet cof (coefficient of friction) for your shower floor tiles. We picked a smooth tile (not glossy) that just seemed like it would be slippery when wet, but the wet cof was very high. Sure enough it worked great and was never slippery. Unless you are at a Daltile shop, the sales people do not know what the cof is, so you have to educate yourself. The box of tile should have wcof and dcof printed on the side. I like Moen faucets everywhere because you can get the replacement valve for about $10 at any hardware store. Never had to replace one, but at least I don't need to find a specialty plumbing shop to get parts. Delta and all the others have different valve models for every faucet and every year requiring a heavy catalog of parts. One O-ring might cost $10. Look at having cabinets custom made instead of off the shelf. Ask your GC for recommendations. The cost will be very similar and quality will be better. We did not get plans for our cabinets either, and ours are very different from any you can buy. Modern porcelain tiles are laser printed with designs that look exactly like stone, marble, or wood. You need a magnifying glass to see that ours are not real stone. Check to see if you have a Floor & Decor store near you. They are a tile superstore with an eye watering selection of tile, stone, wood, and laminates at rock bottom prices. We picked tile with a green appearance of limestone and found a wood look tile with a similar green cast to it. The tile looks brown installed, but the true brown tiles looked horrible next to the greenish stone look tile. If you are going to open your walls, add electric outlets. We have outlets at both ends of the vanity, but we forgot to put one on the wall by the floor (facepalm). Every now and then we want a space heater on but only in the bathroom. No outlet. Pay attention to where the door hinges go on the shower door and on the entry door. Do you want the doors to open inward or outward? Left side or right? There are some very quiet fans on the market. Get one bigger than you need. Ours keeps the air clear during the hottest and longest showers. You can feel air coming in under and around the door. We also redid our HVAC in the master suite so we don't have much air movement...which means I sometimes leave the fan running for days and days to bring in fresh air. It is quiet enough to not bother us at night. Use LED lighting. The bulbs are slightly more expensive, but mine have never burned out in 10 years. We have never had dark, granitey counter tops, so I just recently learned of a problem with them. My daughter has dark granite with swirly patterns in her kitchen. You can't see the spills on it. She had both jelly and chocolate spilled on hers, and she thought they were clean. I found out when I tried to wrap a package. At least with a uniform pattern or lighter colors, you can see what needs to be wiped up. This goes for the floor, too. Don't enclose your shower all the way to the ceiling. We had a problem with air flow in ours before we opened it up. The shower would get moldy. After we opened it up above 6.5 feet, the mold never returned. We had an open space in a corner that is just lost space. Since it was unusable, we had our cabinet maker make a medicine cabinet that is 8 inches deep (normal is 4). It's great to have the extra volume. Get drawers that pull all the way out so the back of the drawer is even with the front of the cabinets. If you don't specify, they will install glides that leave 4 inches under the counter. Stuff gets lost back there.