Gardengal, I'm not going to re-read all the material that I might have spoken about....I don't believe I ever suggested other methods don't work....or cant be used. I just pointed out that for the vast majority of houseplant growers, this method of leaching on a regular basis is not according to how the majority treats their plants. I contend it is not good soil practices to water...in the way that was described, every day. Plants need nourishment....however given. By watering in usuch manner as described, I suggest the plant is not receiving any nourishment. It would be like the comparison...albeit unusual...that the person sitting down to a meal and after the smell has permeated the nostril, the meal is taken away and replaced with another to repeat the same thing, over and over and over. How much of our bodies would last very long? I suggest plants are no different. If as suggested, the number of plants so testified to, do indeed thrive in the manner described, then I don't have much to suggest otherwise. All I said was I didn't believe such method was good for a plant. I don't think I'm in the minority. As far as hydroponics, I am well aware of that method and other methods to promote plants. I don't use such --but there are many a pot-filled houses that give evidence it is being carried out widespread. In Ontario...its against the law to sell a home that has been used as a gro-op in this regard without informing the buyer as to its former use. Seems, this method of bringing up plants leaves a definite aroma to the walls that doesn't easily leave. That's a bit off track I know....hydroponics was mentioned so I felt a little levity was called for. I am totally for experiencing other ways of doing things. If it is for some....not for others...including me....I don't find it degrading anybody who feels compelled to try it. I invited discussion....pro and con....that is all I intended and suggesting otherwise is looking for off topic disrespect.

My 1997 Stihl TS 510 Brazilian made cut off saw (same metal base as a chainsaw, carb's a Tillotson) ran well for 10 minutes, then lost power if under load, but would spin up if not under load and sound ok, but bog down again if loaded. So, I replaced the ignition coil with Stihl part and it coughed once after a couple pulls but didn't start, then I have a very short shot of ether, ran for .5 second, then, no more signs of starting. Pulled carb, looked at hoses, cleaned carb with brake cleaner, diaphragms look good, it ran a second on first pull, then no coughs, nothing. The upper seal on the carb, just below air filter is not completely torn, but is thin and tattered. There is a very small gas leak, a few drips around the hose attachment onto the big rubber fitting that pushes with some effort into the metal hole the hoses run through to the gas tank. IDK if the Tillotson is original, or the last guy had problems? I took the hoses off, blew through them, no visible issues. I think it's a fuel issue. What's my next move?

Susie, I have searched & can't find any Avast on it. I also went into the folders. I just did a search on this one & there is quite a bit Norton leftover on it still. AVG is on too & was working when I stopped using this one. I hope to have another one Monday if everyone would just get well..I don't drive (never learned) & all my rides are truly sick. Cat, I think I will try the XP tonite. I do know it has a LOT of problems & need to be started over..it is not worth spending $150 to do that. Nite before last I was trying to fill out a form to order something.. it took over 30 minutes to do it.. The cursor kept freezing plus it wouldn't scroll without freezing. Some on here can vouch for all the problems I have had. If I can get it running I can at least check to see if there is anything else I want saved. I tried to keep things saved as I knew this day was coming. Yes I know now the APC is probably why it wouldn't turn on but I don't think that had anything to do with the other problems. The XP took about 20 minutes to reboot.. this 98 is very fast doing it. Thanks, Dar

For everyone having the problem with your garage door not closing... I've read this entire blog and tried everything suggested. The force/travel adjustments would solve my problem for a while then it would come back so, if you've already checked sensors, wiring for damage/connection, adjusted the up/down force, adjusted the up/down travel here's something to try before buying a new opener: Inside the unit find the up/down travel adjustment mechanism(see photo). At the end opposite the screw-heads you turn to adjust the travel there is a gear mechanism. When these gears wear they can slip. In addition, the chassis for the gears is plastic and over time will weaken-my opener is almost 12 years old! My gears are still in pretty good shape. The problem is that the chassis would flex and allow the gears to jump hence, the reason my adjustments would work for a while then the problem would come back. Now I know this will sound like a hokey fix but I figure it is better than dropping a couple hundred bucks on a new opener...I pushed a toothpick into the hole in the main chassis where the travel mechanism is snapped in essentially eliminating the chassis from flexing and allowing the gears to slip. make sure you do this on the side opposite the gears. If you do it on the same side you will put a larger space between the gears making the problem worse. This has been working for nearly a month now. I attached a picture of the travel adjust mechanism for reference. It is difficult to see the toothpick in the photo. It is right next to the brown wire connection opposite end of the mechanism from the adjustment screw heads. One other hint: the opener will most likely get hot running the door up and down making your adjustments and will shut off (thermal overload protection). I don't know why but after this happened the green light next to the remote programming button on the back would flash 5 times-off-flash 5 times...repeatedly. I had to pull the power for a couple minutes to get the light to stop blinking. Either let the unit cool for about 10 minutes after it shuts off or to keep your unit from overheating, place a small floor fan in position to blow on the motor. Craftsman 1/2 HP model# 139.53971SRT manufacture date: 02/2000