I own a 36" Wolf DF and am one with porcelain issues. I love the burners with a great low heat and the oven is wonderful. I am looking to replace it though. After dickering with Wolf they have agreed to provide the part and $350 in labor. The problem is the labor starts at $800+ because they don't know what they will find and the time may vary depending on how fast the guys work. They will only guarantee the part one year. They used to replace ovens with this problem even when 4+ years old for a small fee. Most posters here and elsewhere have had more than one replacement and the replacements don't last as long as the one before. I don't want to risk inhaling or ingesting tiny glass shards when the liner starts to degrade. "I thought electric was a more consistent, and therefore better, option for baking/roasting? " "gas is better for roasting because of the moist heat. " Consistency has nothing to do with gas or electric, but bulk for thermal stabilization (providing radiant heat), air movement within the oven chamber(providing convective heat), placement of burners and accuracy of thermostat. Some companies seek to improve this by adding among other things,more insulation, more bulk, fan(s), a third and possibly a fourth element with computerized controls and and a thermostat with a narrower variance from the set temperature. When looking at humidity in an oven, you have to look past the immediate heat source and look at what happens with the oven and the cooking process. In general a gas oven has more ventilation through the oven chamber so the water that is a product of combustion is vented out along with more heat, so the heat is drier. Electric ovens are not ventilated as much so hold moisture from cooking. The moisture in the electric oven is beneficial the first half of baking breads and cakes because it allows the dough/batter to expand a little more, promotes starch gelatinization and allows better heat penetration of what you are baking. "Dry" is better the second half of the baking process. People seem to pay more attention and it makes more difference for bread. There are many ways people use steam for bread. "Dry" heat from a gas range or using the convection mode on an electric stove gives crispiness to a roast and may be better for some cookies, pies etc. External moisture has nothing to do with internal moisture of a roast. The amount of internal moisture is due to the temperature of the meat. Plus you have to pay a huge premium for dual fuel when in fact it does not cost the manufacture a lot more to make. You pay a premium for the additional elements, fans and the computers to make them run correctly. It would be up to the individual to decide what is huge and if it is worth it. They have fantastic 23k btu open burners with very even heat. No need for high maintenance tin lined French copper pots. What the heck does this mean??? If you have a burner with a flame pattern of 5-6 inches wide, if you use anything wider than 8 inches, you will benefit from a pan that has good heat conduction. Best is heavy gauge copper, lined in tin or stainless. Not everyone polishes. You can also get plied cookware with copper that goes in the dishwasher. Cheaper is aluminum available in several configurations including plied cookware. This is a very biased statement from a sealed burner owner that thinks dual stacking makes any meaningful difference. The purpose of dual stacked burners is to provide two separate burners each with its own range of heat. You would have to look at the range of BTU output for each burner to see the benefit. Rating by temperature is meaningless. I might have a BTU output of 325 and the temperature of what I am cooking could be 190 or 80 depending on the pan and what I am cooking. CC's 23k btu burners are capable of 145 degree simmer which is more than reasonable. Other than raw foodist, virtually no one needs or can use Wolf's 100 degree simmers. This is unbelievably presumptuous to pontificate about what other people should or should not find useful in their kitchen. I use low heat daily for -cooking a whole dinner or pot of soup in a LeCreuset pot using minimal energy -serving off the range, no worries about any scorching pastas, mashed potatoes etc -a short term sous-vide -anything that used to require a double boiler A few weeks ago I was making a syrup that had to be held hot while another step in the recipe was completed and even with the low simmer, it would not stop boiling. I could have "used" even lower heat. There is a whole big world of people that cook in many different ways. Wolf's sealed burners will not give you a decent stir-fry or Pittsburg steak while the CC will. Cooking is about the temperature of the cooking surface. The source of heat is just one component of this. A cook who understands how the properties of cookware work as well as how what you are cooking comes into play will be able to combine these things to come up with the right temps for the cooking surface on both high and low end. You can find blogs where cooks preheat cast iron to extremely high temps by low powered burners to cook pizza. Some restaurants cook a steak on a rock table side with no flame underneath. You just need to understand how to accumulate heat in your cooking surface. How are those pictures representative of the burners referenced? The CC is way off. I have cooked on many different open and sealed burners over 50 years. I agree with weissman that ease of cleaning burners depends on the build and also has a very subjective component. I think you have to avoid generalizations. Even the black enamel on the Dacor range we had was much more difficult to clean than the black on our current Wolf. This, an observation from my husband.

I really like the Wolf range but never even looked at ranges at all before this week because of price/oven issue. However, that was before I found this deal which put it in my upper price range. So I'm trying to research the range and look at it realistically vs getting swayed just by the price. If I didn't get the range, I would be buying the Kenmore double convection oven with Wolf 5 burner gas cooktop. Not sure if Wolf range ovens would be better or not. I do LOVE the cooktop part of the range and the "wow" factor however just concerned with oven heights. However, I would have the steam oven at perfect level above the warming drawer so that may offset the lower ovens on range. I live in southern TN. Not that I want this to influence my decision, but houses in my neighborhood (range from 500k-3 Million) do have majority high end appliances. So even though we don't plan on selling , I believe the Wolf range would fit the house better... However, for me personally, I would be happy with both scenarios. Thanks for all the help/input!!

Sorry hvtech I did not see this post but will answer now. I don't think that there is any disagreement about how the oven works but rather if this is going to impact the way you use your oven. "without actually owning and using the oven, I don't think you can draw the conclusion that you have" Capital is very specific about how it works. I merely point out what they have written. What specific conclusion do you disagree with? "I also think there is confusion about what preheat mode on any oven actually is. You said in an earlier post that most ovens will go into a preheat mode after a small drop in temperature (25 degrees or so). This is not the case. On most ovens, preheat mode comes on exactly when you'd think - only when the oven is preheating. Not when it is just trying to maintain temperature." The point is not what you are calling the heating cycle, but the fact that it exists, and is responsive to the thermostat which keeps the temperature tightly controlled. Some people use the word loosely to mean whenever the elements come on. For a long time the preheat was the bake element coming on and this was indicated by a little red light. The same red light came on when the bake element came back on to maintain the temperature. Now you have the possibility with some ovens of more elements coming on during preheat and a little light that says "preheating" during that time and the little light may or may not come back on after that. To be more specific, you can call it "preheat" when the elements in the oven are on until it reaches temperature and call it "recovery" when the elements come back on to maintain the temperature. For either, it is the heat coming on when the oven temperature is more than 25F (or whatever defines the thermostat's parameter) from the set temperature to allow a rapid return to the set temp. Every oven I have ever had, probably 15 or so have operated this way- controlled by the thermostat -except one. In some ovens, like Capital electric ovens, the heating is done in a totally different way. The preheat comes on and heats the oven to temp and then a computer program takes over and turns the element on and off rapidly according to "logic" mentioned by Trevor above. It does not know if the oven door is open or a large amount of cold food has entered the oven cavity. It just keeps oscillating blissfully at the same rate unaware of the new burden it has received. The thermostat does not come into play for a long time because it is set so that there has to be a 150F differential, according to the manual, quoted above and confirmed by the notes from the factory. " Preheat mode on ANY oven (not just Capital's) is intensive and has the potential to burn food, so it only comes on when there is not supposed to be any food in the oven." I would not say "ANY" oven. They are all very different, especially electric ovens. The preheat can potentially cause anything from almost nothing to browning to burning depending on how the oven is designed and the food you putting in it. There are some ovens that allow you to put food in the oven and then set a time for it to start cooking. This is very common actually and there are some ovens that advertise no need to preheat. I would not bake a cake in them but you can bake something like a casserole. The preheat is not as intense in those ovens. Ovens that might be more intense would be those that use convection or a combination of elements to rapidly preheat but even this varies widely. " From the user guide and factory info, the only thing that it looks like Capital does differently is engage preheat after a severe drop in temperature (which shouldn't happen in normal oven use, as Trevor's testing indicates)." ----->Please define "normal use"<----- " I can't find any evidence that just because the CC engages preheat after a large drop in temperature, it will also have issues maintaining the set temperature without preheat mode." Capital spells it out for you. "No quick recovery. Oven will cycle normally despite large temperature drops due to the door being left open, or the oven set temperature being reset to a much higher temperature. The recovery time can be very long for large differentials between oven temp and set temp." In real cooking, you loose heat under certain circumstances. Open the door a few times and you are baking 100F below the set temp with no ability to recover. Another major point. It will not allow the temperature to be reset higher in a timely way unless you open the oven and induce the 150F degree differential and then you would have to take the food out while the temp goes up. "My Electrolux and KitchenAid ovens NEVER engage preheat mode once the oven is heated up and neither have any issues maintaining temperature." The little light that says "preheat" may not be on but my Elux is still rotating through the same elements as when it preheats . they cycle on and off according to need. The only difference is that the convection fan does not come on in bake mode or run high speed in the bake convection mode. Mine has a little picture showing which element is on and when. Whatever name tag you give this ability, this same mechanism does not exist in Capital Electric ovens according to their literature. Make of it what you will. "I know that you had a Dacor oven with issues maintaining temperature, but I don't think you can assume that just because the CC oven sounds like that oven, it will actually work like that oven." HaHa, that oven was what made me study ovens. I am not going by my oven at all, but again what Capital has written themselves. This is why it pays to read use and care manuals.

NXR is a basically a collection of parts. Service will be so so depending on where you are located and you are basically rolling the dice. Having sold a few of them, most of them worked perfectly. One of them did not, and that's where the nightmare began. Kitchenaid pro ranges are well rated, but not well received. Our chefs are currently using a kitchenaid (we rotate ranges) and generally don't like it, The burners aren't great for smaller pots and the ovens were uneven when baking. The DCS is currently not on rotation with us, but it's a solid platform that's been around for many years. The ovens are a bit smaller, but if it works for you, the tech is solid. Plus there are far fewer electronics to fail since there is no complicated control board. IMHO DCS is the choice among those 3.