If the range is in the island IMO a poor place for it. As for the venting blower I always use vent-a hood and vent out the wall or straight up through the roof , the shortest straight line is best

Yes, given that one has determined the appropriate flow-rated blower to achieve the desired flow rate at the pressure loss conditions that will apply, then different manufacturers' blowers may be used. However, if one wants to use the hood controls for the different blower, then the motor types, e.g., single pair induction, need to match, as well as be in the same general power range. Otherwise, and avoiding having to be one's own electrical engineer, a wall control compatible with the blower motor will be needed. In some cases, a compatible control could be integrated into the hood, but I can't evaluate that from here.

Note that the roof cap can have an integrated blower (see Wolf and Broan/NuTone offerings) that pushes exhaust air down-roof. This leaves duct length in the attic into which one can insert a silencer for noise reduction.

You may be a candidate for reviewing the vast number of discussions here on hoods and the corresponding required make-up air schemes. If you wish I can add a reference list to this thread.

Yes I would appreciate the links!

Here is a start:

(read the first dozen or so pages so you will understand your goal.) https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf 

From our forum's @opaone

https://bamasotan.us/range-exhaust-hood-faq/

https://bamasotan.us/griddle-faq/

https://bamasotan.us/2020/12/the-kitchen/

stabs at FAQs

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2328297/range-hood-faq-personal-notes-updated-10-31-2007#n=20

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5161173/hood-faq#n=101

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6099827/exhaust-hood-faq-ii#n=113

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6040827/range-hood-noise-project

from our @clinresga

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2324336/vent-hoods-and-noise-the-real-scoop-on-vah

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6417748/hood-depth-question#n=10

Some MUA

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5888450/seeking-muas-advice#28657635

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6078111/cost-to-add-a-make-up-air-system-for-kitchen#n=65

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6184577/need-advice-800-cfm-range-hood-and-make-up-air#28926574

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/6128658/vent-hood-duct-size-gauges-material-and-make-up-air#n=19

Specific MUA safety related:

Heating systems with fan-powered exhaust systems can withstand higher negative pressures than natural-draft appliances. Some types of fan-powered systems are much better than others, however. In order of effectiveness, the choices are:

* Sealed-combustion. Also called “direct vent,” these appliances draw all combustion and dilution air from outside. These can typically tolerate negative pressures in the range from 25 to 50 Pa.

* Power-vented. These draw their makeup air from indoors and are also called fan-assisted, forced-draft, or mechanical-draft. These can typically tolerate up to 15 to 20 Pa of negative pressure.

* Induced-draft. These have a small fan added for energy performance, not to overcome house depressurization. These can typically tolerate 5 to 15 Pa of negative pressure.

By comparison, an atmospherically vented furnace can back-draft with as little as 5 Pa of negative pressure, and a gas water heater will have spillage at 2 or 3 Pa. Fireplaces can start having problems at about 3 Pa. Canadian codes limit negative pressures in homes with atmospherically vented equipment to 5 Pa. U.S. codes do not currently address the issue (in a plainly spelled out "prescriptive" number).

1 pascal = 0.00402 inches, water column

1 atmosphere = 407 inches, w.c.

wow I read through the articles and I have to say....I'm not an engineer to understand more than half of what was out there! Thank you very much @kaseki