I received it Thursday night. I bought the Broan E6042T SS. It is beautiful. No logos on it. Also doesn't have any paperwork with it for some reason. Will need to download user manuals and installation manuals I guess. It is not installed yet. It is just waiting patiently with the other appliances. First picture is the part where it would vent straight up. Two small rectangles that unscrew. The same for rear venting. Broan E6042T SS Accessories Mandatory Yes Accessories Optional Yes Accommodates Ceiling Height 8' ADA Compliant No Blower Air Mover Type Centrifugal Blower Blower Included Yes Boost Mode No CFM (Airflow) 1200 Color/Finish Stainless Steel Control Feature Filter Reminder No Damper Included Yes Delay Shut Off No Digital Clock No Dishwasher Safe Filters Yes Duct Connector Size 4-1/2" x 18" ENERGY STAR� qualified No Filter Included Yes Filter Type Stainless Steel Baffle Flue Accommodates ceilings up to xx ft N/A Heat Sentry Yes HVI Certified Yes Light Bulb Quantity 3 Light Bulbs Included No Lighting Function Two-level Lighting Type Halogen Max Sones/100 CFM 1.2 Minimum Height Above Cook Top 24" Mounting System Wall Mounting Type Wall Nightlight No Non-Stick Coated No Product Depth (inches) 24" Product Height (inches) 18" Product Width (inches) 42" Rated Amps 9.0 Remote Control No Sones Certified Horizontal High 13.5 Sones Certified Horizontal Low 1.5 Sones Certified Vertical 7" Round High N/A Sones Certified Vertical 7" Round Low N/A Sones Certified Vertical High 14.0 Sones Certified Vertical Low 1.5 Switch Control Settings Variable Switch Style Rotary Dial Timer No UL Status Yes Voltage 120

Here's something... 22" width (they also have it in 32"), baffles, LED lights, internal blower with optional remote blower kit (sold separately as an accessory). It comes with a wireless remote too, so you can recess it into the cabinet w/o worrying about how you'll get to the control panel. Here is a link that might be useful: Futuro Insert Baffle Hood

Actually hood ventilation noise consists primarily of two components - blower or blower mechanical noise and airflow noise (ignoring vibration caused from a cheap and poorly constructed hoods). A low quality blower will introduce mechanical noise hence one should always strive to install the best quality blower you can - each of those blower options below have specific areas of use - an inline blower mounted remotely will reduce immediate mechanical noise versus an internal blower in the hood HOWEVER an inline blower brings its own risks in terms of resonance (air waves from blower oscillations and minute vibrations) in a confined area. An external blower mounted close to the hood is about the same as an internal blower in the hood - one typically uses an external blower if you have a difficult duct run - sucking air from the end of the duct run along a convoluted and long duct run is far more efficient than trying to PUSH air from inside the hood via an internal blower along the same duct run. At the end of the day noise has mainly two components - poor quality blower that introduces excessive mechanical noise (there will always be some but this can be mitigated by using a good quality blower) and most importantly the QUALITY of the duct run - a duct run that is too small or multiple 90 elbows or has been crimped(dented badly at installation) OR using the ribbed aluminum stuff versus smooth HVAC galvanized ducting introduces a lot of air flow noise - of course the type and design of the filtration system also introduces airflow noise in the hood. By far the biggest problem we have found in over 20 years of custom range hood sales and installations is ducts that are far to small for the airflow generated by the internal blower - modern blowers (good quality ones) sense duct restrictions and run faster (more revolutions and therefore more mechanical noise) to compensate and delivery the requested volume of airflow - a simple mathematical calculation will illustrate this - a 6 " duct which everyone believes is adequate provides 28.28 sq inches of airflow capacity whereas an 8" duct supports 50.28 sq inches - nearly double the volume of airflow - so of course an 8" duct is far more efficient and is why we recommend an 8" duct over a 6" for 600cfm and 10" duct over 8" for 900cfm and 1200cfm. An added tip - another benefit of external blowers is that because they are far more efficient at moving air over distances and bad duct runs is an 8" duct is sufficient for say a 900cfm or 1200cfm external blower - qualification of course being a high quality external blower system such as ours - cant comment on the others out in the market - as always you get what you pay for......at Custom Range Hoods we are always willing to help and will assist anyone with technical questions - placing an order with us will of course open the door to a mountain of experience and good advice - feel free to email us at allenl@customrangehoods.ca.

54-inches (4.5 ft) x 2 ft = 9 sq. ft. Desired volumetric flow rate to achieve 90 ft/min across the hood aperture is 90 x 9 = 810 CFM. Blower rating needed to pull 810 CFM with decent MUA will be around 1200 CFM, as you noted. Fantech provides 'fan-curve' data in the form of tables, and also plots. A 1200 CFM unit (at zero static pressure) will show a value near 810 CFM at some pressure drop (about 1.2 inches, w.c., for the FKD10XL). Excluding MUA, most pressure drop will be from the hood baffles, unless one has several tens of feet of duct. It would be useful for you to obtain pressure loss vs. flow rate data from Bluestar. Fantech in-line blowers are, I think, axial blowers (like a turbo jet pressure section) rather than a flat plate with radial fins (like turbo chargers use). Broan blowers, including inline, appear to all be the plate type. There is nothing wrong with these, but they may have a different characteristic fan curve shape than Fantech's blowers. I've never plotted both together. (It is important for residential blowers operated at uncontrolled pressure losses and any speed from low to high that they have monotonic fan curves. Else they might 'hunt' at some setting. That would be annoying.) Plate type blowers are least conspicuous built into a roof cap. Commercial up-blast blowers use induction motors often tied to the fan assembly via a belt and sheaves. These can be tailored to provide the desired CFM at lower fan speeds, thereby reducing noise. They are, however, significantly more conspicuous on the roof. The primary advantage to using a hood manufacturer's specified blower is that it will directly adapt to whatever fan speed controls are built into the hood. Other blowers may require some type of adapter or control replacement. So a Blue Star hood's control nature might have to be determined. My Wolf hood adapts to my Wolf blower, made by Broan/NuTone, and likely would work with any other single wire pair induction motor blower up to some motor power limit. The Fantech FKD10XL data sheet show curves for a 5-step transformer control, and for no control. One would have to check with them for compatibility with whatever the Bluestar hood uses, such as phase control. If you use an in-line blower, you also have to find a suitable roof or wall cap. Fantech many sell these. You should have a damper at the hood and also at the roof cap. You need to plan out the entire hood duct path. Is there room for a silencer? Can the duct path rise over its entire length (desirable)? What elbows are needed? Fantech makes some duct couplings that may prove useful. Hanger strap material will be needed. Sound dampening material may or may not be needed depending on blower assembly vibration, which is mostly, I expect, due to blower fan assembly balance quality. Best to match MUA actual flow rate to hood actual flow rate (ex: 810 CFM). This avoids all (well most) pressure drop in the house, conferring safety with combustion appliances and keeping the wall dust in the walls. If active MUA is needed to do this (depends on combustion appliances and their MUA, if any) then a blower that can provide the required CFM at the MUA path pressure loss (usually any air filters, but could include the heating scheme if hydronic). As usual, the duct diameter in the hood exhaust should support a full speed flow rate of 1000 to 2000 ft/min. The otherwise clean MUA path is not grease deposition constrained, but larger will reduce pressure loss if there is room -- useful particularly with passive MUA. I'll skip MUA control in this message, but it needs to be addressed. Commercial rigs usually run at constant speed (exhaust and MUA), so tuning is easy. Residential variable flow rate, along with perhaps a need to deal with other exhaust fans and fireplaces, imposes more difficult conditions for blower control. You might need a Fantech MUA setup, or their 10V control type blowers run by a controller trying to keep house pressure relative to outside within some bound.