Self Watering Pot Question
savannaicus
9 years ago
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kaktuskris
9 years agoasleep_in_the_garden
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Capel Manor College Self-Watering Pot
Comments (5)Have you seen the self-watering pots sold in Home Depot or Walmart? There is an saucer that holds quite a bit of water and when attached looks seamlessly part of the container. There is a + shape on bottom container that you can fit many pebbles like the concept in the video and you can water into the hole at the bottom. Not too useless since you want to water from the top -- I personally use the saucer as a drainage container and an battery liquid transfer pump to pump out of the excess water. Home Depot carries it in Red (terra cotta color) with the brand Spa and Walmart carries it in Green with brand Mainstays. Both are from same manufacturer. Link to Walmart Website: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mainstays-5.2-Self-Watering-Planter/16630836 I prefer green and pure white pots as they do not distract from the plant. Red sticks out too much in my opinion....See MoreTurn air pruning pots into self watering/air pruning pots?
Comments (1)Hey dude, absolutely, the way to do it is create a wicking bed underneath the pot. You can use pretty much anything that's a few inches deep. I did a quick search for "wicking smart pot" and came up with the link below (it's for growing weed) but applies to veggies and more -- you set the smart pot on top of a wicking substrate like perlite, pumice or a capillary mat and the water will be pulled up towards the plant. The pot doesn't sit in the water, rather there's a inch or so of air between the water level and the pot, allowing water to be pulled up by the plant as needed. You can also create a float valve system tied to a hose so that when the water level goes down below a certain point, it triggers the valve and lets more water in. These are used all the time in rain gutter grows. I'm going to do it with my veggies in Root Pouches and $1 oil drip trays from the dollar store. Finally, wicking systems (like Earthtainers and Earth Boxes) only really work for one grow season. And they only work with normal soil mix, not 5-1-1 or gritty. For growing veggies in one season, self wicking is fantastic. For trees and perennials, go with a drip system, otherwise you run into all kinds of issues such as decomposing mix, severe salt buildup and more. Hope that helps! Here is a link that might be useful: Self Wicking Smart Pots...See MoreSelf watering pots.
Comments (7)Hi, Chris, Thank you for clarifying some things for me. I now have a better idea what is going on with your plants. First of all, if you are going to use the self-watering planters, you need to use a really light mix. The mixes made commercially are almost all peat moss, and they will stay too waterlogged to be successful in these planters. You can use this mix, but add equal parts of perlite and vermiculite to it, with a little extra perlite thrown in. This lighter mix allows air spaces for the roots. You can also add the fertilizer right to the solution in the pot. These pots do not work by evaporation, they simply allow the water on one side to seep through the clay to the other side. Agian, difficult to control... The rule of thumb for the correct pot size is to measure the diamet of the plant, and divide by three. The answer is what the diameter of the pot should be. A nine-inch plant goes in a 3 inch pot. The reason for this is that violets are a shallow rooted plant, and they like to be pot bound. If they are overpotted, there isn't enough root system to absorb all the water in the potting medium, and the chances of getting root rot are very high. As far as 'evaporation', imagine two bowls of water sitting on your counter. If you placed a potted plant over one bowl without it touching any part of the water, it is not going to get any of that water into the pot through evaporation. If you place the pot IN the water of the second bowl, it will ABSORB the water to the extent of the capacity of the medium. There is a lot of information here on the forum, and if you get some spare time I would encourage you to go through the posts and absorb as much as you can. Good luck. Barbara...See MoreWhen to fertilize in self watering pot
Comments (3)Before answering your question about fertilizing, let's address the limp leaves issue. Either too much water, resulting in root rot, or too little water, resulting in limp leaves. A third possibility is soil mealybugs. Since you are going to repot, which is the right thing to do, I would recommend that you re-think the self-watering pot. They are really tricky to get the right absorption of liquid to keep the soil damp but not soaking. Adding perlite will help, but absorption rates will vary from pot to pot, based upon the clay used. If you are open to the idea, I would use a simple plastic pot that is 1/3 the diameter of the plant. If your heart is set on using the self-watering pot, try this mix: 1/2 of the potting mix you have, and 1/2 perlite. The perlite will keep air spaces so the roots hopefully don't stay waterlogged. It's possible that you have root rot already since the plant is limp, or that there wasn't enough water absorbed and it has been too dry. In either case, knock the plant out of the pot and take a good look at the root ball. If it is really dry, gradually moisten the root ball with your bottled water, a little at a time. If the roots are whitish, that is good. The leaves should perk up after a day. While doing this re-moistening, you can keep the plant in the insert part, but dump the water out of the outer pot. At this point it would seem clear that the clay used in this pot isn't going to allow the correct absorption rate and can't be re-used as intended. If the soil is very moist when it comes out of the pot, closely examine the root ball. If the roots are brown, the plant probably has root rot, which doesn't allow water to get up the stem to the plant. You will need to cut off the root ball, starting at the bottom, and work your way up until all the brown mushy stuff is gone. If you can get to good stem, you can re-root this part. Remove all the limp leaves and all but about the first 2-3 rows of leaves, scrape the stem of any stubs, and place into your soil mix, place in a baggie, and put in a bright (not sun) spot. The crown should grow new roots in a couple of weeks. It is not necessary to feed the plant at this time, but after it has re-rooted, simply mix up a jug at 1/2 the 'dosage' recommended, and use it every time you water. And please look at the analysis of the ingredients. Nitrogen will be the first shown, listing the sources of nitrogen. If it shows urea, and it probably will, do not use it if it is over 7-8%. You can find AV fertilizer online, or email John Cook at Cape Cod Violetry for non-urea fertilizer. Let us know how it turns out. Barbara...See MorePhoto Synthesis
9 years agosavannaicus
9 years agoUser
9 years agodbarron
9 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agodbarron
9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
9 years agoellenr22 - NJ - Zone 6b/7a
9 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
9 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
9 years agoPhoto Synthesis
9 years agolast modified: 9 years agoJeff Pass
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoDave
6 years agoRosie1949
6 years agoKaren S. (7b, NYC)
6 years agoRosie1949
6 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
6 years agoRosie1949
6 years agoTiffany, purpleinopp Z8b Opp, AL
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)