countertop overhang needs support (retrofit) - help pls!
feisty68
9 years ago
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feisty68
9 years agofeisty68
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Help w countertop overhang support options
Comments (10)YOu have several options. Not to have any support is not one of the options. The pic of the embedded steel is one option. However, if the steel is not anchored to the cabinet it's little more than an expensive way to rod the stone (which is usually done with small diameter steel rod.) For actual structural support you need corbels or steel that is securely anchored to the cabinetry. This is quite possible and the underside of the stone can be relieved (hollowed out) if you choose although the steel supports need only be 1/2 0r 3/8" thick so burying them in the stone actually makes for a weaker assembly. the trick to low profile supports is getting a cabinet structure which will provide an adequate anchor points for the bolts holding the steel bars. This is usually not available without some additional structure built into the cabinets. While it doesn't sound like a concern for your project it can also be important to have the cabinetry securely anchored. It's not uncommon for a raised bar to have only a half wall as the primary support structure and if you want to hang off a large overhang you need to make sure the stone doesn't want to tip the whole structure (cabinet plus stone) over. Seems like an obvious consideration to me but it's not for a lot of people....See Moregranite countertop overhang help
Comments (6)Since you have such a narrow base that the granite is sitting on, I'd definitely add support. If someone decided to sit on it or a child tries to swing from the ledge it could definitely break. Of course its strength depends on the type of granite you have. Corbels don't have to be huge and bulky if you don't like that look. The best prices I've found are online. My granite overhangs a little over 12 inches and the corbels are 27" apart. The amount of granite that overhangs the corbels is around 3"....See Morecounter support for island - pics before counter installed?
Comments (24)I would strongly recommend AGAINST buying ANY CounterBalance product... they will completely hose the homeowner / DYI consumer. Just compare the price for the brackets between http://counterbalanceshop.com and http://www.chemical-concepts.com/counterbalance.php The same product will cost you $114 at the first site and $81 at the second. Really??? THEY ARE BOTH THE SAME VENDOR. I tried to place an order based upon the info on the Chemical site (didn't even know about the counterbalance site) and they wouldn't honor the price posted. Don't do business with this vendor who isn't interested in doing business with you. Vendor's words: "I could care less about" selling to consumers. STAY AWAY !!! Find a local machine shop who is interested in doing business at a fair price/profit. The product is a VERY simple job for any machine shop to produce. Chemical concepts doesn't even make the product -- they sell glue. For the person who wanted to know where they could get metal support bars, here is an option: http://metalworking.mscdirect.com/CGI/MWSRCH?N=32003649 I don't have any experience with them, so I don't know if their prices/policies are good or bad. I just found them from doing a bit of searching....See More15" Granite Counter Overhang Supports
Comments (15)You'll need new skins, wider than 48''. Detach the full height cabinets under the proposed overhang. Attach 2 2x4 pressure treated pieces of lumber to the slab with a Hilti or ramset where I show the RED lines. Also use some construction adhesive. Yes, I like belts and suspenders. :) Build a 34.5''H pony walls with conventional framing techniques, taking the wall to the end of the cabinets. Attach the existing cabinets to the pony wall. Reattach the full height cabinets to the pony wall studs. Here is where you will need the custom steel for the 33'' long steel pieces (BLUE) needed to support the overhang. You will also need 12'' ones for the side overhang. They cannot be flat steel, as that is too flexible. 1'' tubing is too thick for your full overlay cabinets, even with the doors adjusted as far down as they will go. You could use 2''W flat 1/4" steel with a 3/8'' ridge welded to it to create rigidity, in a T shape, flat side up. Holes would need to be drilled into it to attach to the pony wall. Once the steel is sourced and created, you can rout out the pony wall (2 step process, once for the ridge, once for the flat stock) and top of the face frame to accept it. Once the steel is attached, then the skins (GREEN) can be applied to the sides and ends to cover the pony wall. You may want some Outside Corner molding and Batten molding as well to hide the seams. This is a serious design deficiency on your KD's part. He should arrange for the cabinetry materials gratis, and also pay something toward the steel. Labor for this will need to have good experience dealing with finished cabinets and routing, so let the KD pay something towrds that as well....See Morefeisty68
9 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
9 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
9 years agoKippy
9 years agokudzu9
9 years agofeisty68
9 years agogrubby_AZ Tucson Z9
9 years agofeisty68
9 years agofeisty68
9 years agokudzu9
9 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
9 years agofeisty68
9 years agokudzu9
9 years ago
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