Tree bands with sticky stuff like "tanglefoot" applied may be of limited benefit in low population years. Apparently, the tiny caterpillars have the ability to balloon upward into the trees. This is from the research being done at UMass Amherst.

"It is estimated that winter moth eggs hatch between 20-50 growing degree days (base 50) in Massachusetts. Typically, this can occur any time from late March (during atypically warm springs) into the second or third week in April (cool springs). The tiny (less than 1 mm) caterpillars then spin a small silk strand and become air-buoyant and are carried upwards on air currents into the tree canopy where they then try to âÂÂweaselâ between the bud scales, bracts, etc. to get into the buds."

I would consider either Bt or Spinosad for small trees and shrubs at bud break. If you are trying to protect large oaks, you could try trunk barriers. In high population years, it may not matter.

Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: Winter Moth Identification and Management

Sorry the dreaded double post strikes again.

Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: Winter Moth Identification and Management

This post was edited by steve_mass on Tue, Dec 9, 14 at 14:08

Some article out there recommended putting grease bands on trees around November 18. I experimentally tried putting one grease band and a couple strips of double sided duct tape on a mature American Basswood November 30. Wondering if it is worth buying more.

The trees had lots of little holes in their leaves this summer but seemed healthy. Not sure if it was Winter Moth or Japanese Beetles.

Some article out there recommended putting grease bands on trees around November 18. I experimentally tried putting one grease band and a couple strips of double sided duct tape on a mature American Basswood November 30. Wondering if it is worth buying more.

The trees had lots of little holes in their leaves this summer but seemed healthy. Not sure if it was Winter Moth or Japanese Beetles.

Ugh, the winter moths...

I'm trying to convince my parents to leave the outside lights off at night to make them nest on the neighbors' trees. HAHA.

I'll be checking back at this thread to see about the "grease bands" and whether or not they work for other people?

For the record, on November 30 I put a "grease band" on a tree and used two strips of double-sided duct tape to attach it. Last week I saw few tiny moths stuck to the duct tape...not many.

This was placed on a Basswod that had a lot of holes in the leaves. (Not sure if that's from Winter Moth or Japanes Beetles).

For the record, on November 30 I put a "grease band" on a tree and used two strips of double-sided duct tape to attach it. Last week I saw few tiny moths stuck to the duct tape...not many.

This was placed on a Basswod that had a lot of holes in the leaves. (Not sure if that's from Winter Moth or Japanes Beetles).

Hmm, I don't think this is the right time for banding trees - at this point the moths are flying, and the bands are (or may be) useful to catch the caterpillars climbing up the trunks. That happens in spring, doesn't it?

We think about these pests now, because this is when we see them, but the time to treat for them is after winter, if I remember right.

Sorry, I'm too lazy to google this right now (I'm recovering from shoulder surgery and typing is kind of painful!).

If I understand correctly the female winter moth (and canker moth) can't fly, they climb up trunks in late November and again in Spring.

I've been recommended to use Dipel, a BTK variant (predatory bacteria) that will murder the winter moth caterpillars when they feed on new buds in the Spring.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dipel / BTK

i haven't googled this, so plse feel free to correct me, but i always thought j.beetles chewed the outer edges of leaves, and that the tiny holes were from winter moth.
mindy

From the UMASS Ext Service, on the options for various stages of the WM life cycle:

Adult (flying): There are no control options for the adult stages of these moths. They do not feed in this life stage.

Eggs: ... Typically, dormant oil sprays are applied in the very late winter or very early spring depending on temperatures and host plant phenology. Oil sprays can be applied in the fall but it is of no use for winter moth given that the eggs do not appear until very late fall and into the early winter.

Newly Hatched Caterpillars: There are no known controls for winter moth in this life stage.

Free-Feeding Caterpillars: While still on the host plant, they are exposed and very treatable with
1. Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki
2. Spinosad Products
3. 3. Tebufenozide (e.g. Confirm T&Oâ¢
4. Chemical Insecticides
4. Physical Barriers (not very effective)

Winter Moth Pupae in the Soil: There are virtually no controls for this pest in this life stage other than natural predation by such factors as ground beetles.

Here is a link that might be useful: WM Fact Sheet