Lost in misty Rhododendron woods ...
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9 years ago
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Embothrium
9 years agobasic
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Would it pay to have a nursery transplant this rhododendron?
Comments (37)Should be interesting to see how this goes! It's possible that the rootball will be so big that it's hard for a few people to lift it and move it..... So here's my story in case it gives you some more ideas... I moved a large mature Forsythia a year and a half ago.... I first dug a trench around it a week or two, as deep as I could. Then I pruned a lot of the extra growth to make it easier to manage. Then I put a chain as deep as I could into the trench, and attached the ends to the hitch of my beater Land Rover. I pulled, and the chain sank deep under the Forsythia, but did not go all the way through. I then disconnected the chain, and reconnected only one end to the hitch, then pulled with the Rover to help it "saw" through the roots as it was pulled free. I then set the chain deep again, attaching both ends to the hitch, and this time it pulled through and left the bush tilted on the edge of the hole. I then wrapped a tarp around the roots as best as I could to minimize soil loss and let it slide better. Then wrapped the chain around it connecting to the hitch again, this time to drag it to my back yard. Last summer with the drought, the Forsythia wasn't very happy, but this year the it's coming back very well. First picture is before pruning.......See MoreRhododendron won't bloom
Comments (22)In order to bloom, rhododendrons need several things: 1) Flower buds, if you are pruning them after July 1, you may be pruning off the flower buds. Rhododendrons set buds on new wood soon after the spring bloom finishes. These buds must stay on the plant until the next spring to produce a flower. [no flower buds] 2) Sunshine the previous summer. If they are in shade or you have a summer with mostly cloudy days, bloom will be reduced or nonexistant. We had a very cloudy summer a couple years ago and everyone complained the following spring that their bloom was very poor. Some varieties will bloom in moderate shade, but many varieties need 6 to 8 hours of sun each day to set flower buds. [no flower buds] 3) Very little nitrogen fertilizer. Lawn fertilizer is notorious for having lots of nitrogen and lots of nitrogen forces lots of leaf buds and discourages flower buds. Great if you like a green rhododendron with no flowers. It is best to just use a good rhododendron fertilizer just before bloom in the spring. Apply at half the recommended rate and just once. [no flower buds] 4) You need a plant that produces cold hardy buds that will survive your winters. Every rhododendron has a rating, a temperature that is considered safe for not destroying flower buds over the winter. In Pennsylvania where I live, I choose plants that are hardy to -10F to be save. [flower buds don't open] 5) Seasonal weather is important. This past winter we had some hot spells in the middle of winter and very cold spells in early spring, a bad combination. The warm spells can cause the flower buds to break dormancy, and the cold spells can kill any flower buds that are breaking dormancy. If a bud opens enough so that you can see color, it can be destroyed by freezing conditions. [flower buds don't open fully] 6) Spring rains. A spring drought can cause a rhododendron to stay dormant to conserve moisture and basically abort blooming. Drought also causes some branches to die back, reducing bloom. [no flower buds] 7) Protection from critters. Deer love rhododendron buds. Rabbits and squirrels are often reported to dine on rhododendron flower buds. This varies considerably from region to region depending upon what food sources are available. [no flowers]...See MoreRhododendron deer damage
Comments (12)Deer pruning often results in a nice bushy plant. Except when they go after arborvitae, they turn those into lollipops, eating what they can reach and leaving the tops. Rhodies often sprout from what looks like totally bare brown wood. They're very good about sprouting from wherever you happen to want to cut them back to, like a boxwood, and unlike a lot of other woody plants. Around here people routinely take a too-tall monster rhodie and cut it down to the ground almost to rejuvenate it. They usually will resprout from the stump. A bit extreme but it should give you hope. Some species and varieties are naturally leggy, like our native rhodies here in the PNW are naturally leggy. Part of that is whether they're 1yr or 2 yr or 3 yr rhodies - how long they hold an individual leaf before dropping it. Each species and variety is either a 1 or 2 or 3 yr type. The wild rhodies I see growing in the mountains appear to be 2 yr rhodies which tends to leave them bare at the bases. Also they drop the bottom leaves if they're in dry or lean soil, only so much water and nutrients to go around so they sacrifice the oldest leaves. Cool and cloudy is just what your rhodie wants if it's trying to replace lost leaves with a immature root ball! I think it'll be fine. Deer don't normally eat rhodies but there's always a dumb one that doesn't know any better, or a starving one that's desperate. It won't necessarily be repeated....See MoreRhododendron under Maples (Norway...) and others trees in L.I. NY
Comments (12)Thank you, Akamainegrower, I'll look into those books. My local library might even have them in stock. I recall there being a few books on shade gardening. JPM995, maybe the stream will keep the roots directed that way, and less vigorously toward the new plantings. As a additional note, I was cleaning out a bed on the other side of our yard yesterday, in part to transplant a purple rhododendron that was growing into some yews, and I stopped to realize that up until last year we had a very old, large Norway Maple that was becoming diseased and was losing many limbs, and so we had it cut down. I had forgotten about it actually. But, all surrounding and indeed right next to this Norway Maple were planted many years ago various yews, arborvitae, boxwood, a few rhododendron, and a bit further away blue and Norway spruces. And these plants did very well under this large tree. The yews for instance grew quite big. Yes, some of the arborvitae maybe weren't as full as possible due to the shade, but for the most part everything took nicely. And everything planted is 15-20 years old. Then, I thought of another area, where we lost again a Norway maple during Hurricane Sandy and similarly where we had planted a lot of shrubs and small trees. While this bed did not coexist with the maple as long as the first bed I've mentioned, only 5+ years, the plants within it seemed to do fine also. And almost everything planted was left-over, second nursery stock, so not always the healthiest plants to begin with. Perhaps the plants did okay simply because they were individual Norway maples, rather than a woods of them, and so received light and water sufficiently. Or perhaps the more mature the tree, the less vigorous the roots (though I doubt this). The only other reason I can think of is in these areas we have always watered them quite regularly, in fact maybe too much. We've reduced our watering the last few years, but maybe that extra care and attention was what allowed these plants to establish themselves well, despite the invasive tree. And maybe once established, they can hold their own. Granted the rhodo I removed yesterday had started to sprout more vigorously this year, without the tree there, but I'd say it still wasn't bad all that time. Whatever the reason the bed managed under the maple, I am a bit more hopeful in being able to deal with whatever trees have to stay. Joe...See MoreUser
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