Nope, not gonna stop the yellow, but keep soaking today and tomorrow. Exactly the damage can only be determined by how much nitrogen there was by percentage and the form(s) of nitrogen present. If there was a slow release element, the damage will not be continuous at this point. If none was slow release, the damage was immediate because the nitrogen was immediately supplied to the plants. The only thing you can do is water a lot to try to leach the fertilizer past the root zone. Still not effective from a damage-reversing point of view but would have prevented damage somewhat had you caught it and began watering earlier. Normally, it isn't anything to worry about in the long run. In the short run, the grass will look really crappy for a while but will recover. How long that takes usually depends on the type of grass you have. If it's bluegrass, expect that to be about a month give or take. In the meanwhile, don't blow it off as dead. It may not be. Keep mowing on a regular basis, never mowing off more than one third its height. And after tomorrow, irrigate as usual supplying no more than one inch of water per week taking rainfall into consideration. If it isn't bluegrass, let's hope it's not dead, but most don't die from this and usually do recover.

My guess is, it isn't burned. There isn't any reason a mower could burn a lawn, especially in that kind of pattern. You just took off the tops of the grass and what you're seeing is the paler color od the lower parts of the blades, and the reason you're only seeing it in one direction is that the mower brings up the "nap" of the lawn in a different direction. Like sports fields. Does that make sense?

This time of year, south of 'Frisco,' (I know y'all hate that term, about as much as we hate San Antone, but anyway...) you should be watering no more frequently than once every 4 weeks. Here is a picture of a neighborhood in east PA which is full of contractor grade KBG lawns. The picture was taken in July several years ago. The green lawn was replaced with a non-contractor grade seed, but the main point of difference is that the green lawn is watered once a week (during hottest heat of summer) while the rest are watered every day. Thank you to morpheuspa for the picture. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

Uh, yeah, plus when was it applied, and to what grass, and what did you use. Assuming proper application--to a damp lawn--then absorption into the lawn is absolutely assured by that way, so if it was the weeding part that did the damage then thorough watering's not going to be too much help there. Depending on the grass type and when, we might be able to water through excessive fertilization, however.