if you get this house, you really need to live in it a year before you start major remodels. it took us 2 years in our 4square to come up with an intelligent kitchen design. we did re-arrange things several times. check in the basement and see if there are any signs from previous remodels-- holes from gas/water lines. Our final kitchen plan after 2 years was identical to the orginal lay-out-- all the holes for gas, electric, plumbing and heating were right where we wnet to put everything. we bought our cabients, fixtures, appliances after we decided where evrything was going to go and what we liked. medium oak, beige tile, atainless appliances, off-white flooring (major error), almond countertops. each time an item wen on sale we bought it and stored all in the basement. we waited until we installed to order the counters. we moved everything out of the kitchen. hooked up the microwave in the dining room. stripped it all to the four walls, and scrubbed it all down on saturday. Sunday we painted, walls, wood work & ceiling. Monday I laid the sheet vinyl floor. Tuesday I put in all the base cabients. replaced to stove, fridge and rehooked up the sink. plywood went down as temp counters. Wed i installed the ceiling fan--i was desperate, the recessed light over the sink and the wiring for new electric above the backsplash. Thursday I hung the upper cabients and the stove hood. Friday they came to measure for counters and i put away all the dishes and stuff. Two week later the counters got installed-- done by home depot. i finished the tiles work for the backsplash, and installed the new sink and faucet. we could have eaten out for the 1st 3 days if necessary. I'm not really handy when it comes to house repairs. but i got top of the line cabients for 40% off, got the flooring for 60% off-- it was a discontinued pattern. Tiles for backsplash were also very cheap ($ .25 each 4x4) all from open boxes-- had to pick thru one by one), saved about $150 on the stove and $200 on fridge, bought the ceiling fan at the end of the summer sales saved 25%. The sink was a display model (30% off) and faucet we got 10% off because we opened an account at lowes. The only labor that we paid for was for the countertop installation that I didn't want to try doing alone. my wife helped to take stuff out of the kitchen and paint. I watched out twin 4 year olds and did the rest by myself since i was working 3-11 shifts at the time. After 15 years it's time for more work-- tile floor, solid surface counters, a dishwasher, new faucet and disposal. then a gas range and electric oven and a new fridge. ill do the floor, others can do the rest. hope you get the house. but live with the kitchen first until you know what you want. do like the red/white deco scheme you have in mind. you might consider 'quilted' steel backsplashes and a stainless hood. diggerb

According to all the major soapstone suppliers I called about this (I did a lot of research!), soapstone is so heavy it either needs no epoxy to hold it at all, or just something as simple as silicone. HOWEVER, my fabricator, who was not knowledgeable about soapstone, used a PERMANENT, rock hard drying epoxy. Francy what you wrote above reminded me of some research I did for a seam in my granite that had cracked. I posted a question on the stoneadvice forum, asking what the best solution would be for the seam. The responses indicated that polyester should be used rather than epoxy in my particular instance. The reasoning: earthquakes. Yes, I live in the Bay Area too. Here's probably way too much information, but it's relevant to the fact that your fabricator used epoxy to attach the soapstone to your cabinets. My fabricator repaired the cracked seam with polyester. Now, IF THERE WAS NO MOVEMENT EXPECTED, I think the proper solution to the problem would be to remove all the polyester, and re-seam with epoxy. But Antonio is correct in stating that if you did so, and the stone experienced movement (due to an earthquake, for instance)--the stone would indeed crack. The seam would hold, but the stone would crack elsewhere, probably within an inch or so of the seam. (We've done numerous lab tests to prove this). So you're faced with a conundrum--take a chance that there will be no movement and the seam will look good, but the stone may crack if there is movement; or use the "fuse theory"--just like a fuse blows in an electric circuit before there is more damage elsewhere, you can look at the polyester as being a fuse--if there is movement, the "fuse" (the seam) will break, but the stone will still be ok. Then you'd just have to re-seam. (posted by Mike Beckmann from Bonstone Materials Corp.) I hope this post doesn't add more stress to your life - if so I apologize. Best case scenario is that other people can learn from our experiences. Here is a link that might be useful: Stone Advice forum

In case anybody is still following, lol: I've been thinking of Sena's fridge placement concern. The fridge I ordered has a door that can be reversed and is actually 26" deep with door. So I think we'll try it for awhile where the current fridge has been, on the end of the short L. We can inset it into the wall with the door reversed so it swings left and, thus, won't crowd the person at the sink. I'm wondering if we do this if it will be back far enough to now crowd the line-of-vision to the window? We should be able to get an idea of that without actually before we tear out the wall to see if it will be worth it to inset it. Although i do hate to lose that long baking counter. But we can also take out the side wall to the broom closet and play with the fridge there. If we don't like that, I figure we can get cabinets to fill that spot. They could uppers and lowers with counter and a better landing spot/command center than I currently have. Or just a pantry. Might also make a good place to put a small microwave a bit closer to cooking area. Anyway, just mulling options. It will be fun to play with all this. Went to a big home show in the Big City a 90-minute drive away. Hoping to see some unique and interesting ideas. Well, that was a waste. Didn't really see anything any different or better than what I see at our HD. Bummer. But had a nice visit with my friend that came with me so that's good. Won't waste my time on home shows again if this is all they have. My next venture out-of-town will be to some of the bigger Habitat Re-Stores. I've been told that a couple have amazing selections due to being in areas more flush with cash and a lot of high-end remodels. After looking at photos online, I kinda wish I'd thought to check them out sooner for my fridge. Hoping to find some nice cabinet boxes in the sizes I need so I only have to order door/drawer fronts from Barker. I don't mind multiple trips for the right cabinets as this will save hundreds over buying new cabinet boxes. Wow, I can't imagine building a whole house. A kitchen is enough work for me!

Got it, thanks for that feedback Veronika. I think that you guys are right about the location being too low light. I'm working on improving the lighting situation for the plant. I live in a 3 apartment home, I am in the middle. So I have that window in the front that was pictured and the sliding door in the back of the place with a smaller kitchen window. My plan is getting this plant in the front window, removing the blinds and relying on curtains for privacy at night. I can leave a portion of the curtains open at night so it gets morning light right off the bat, then open the curtains when I wake at 7:30. Unfortunately, my home is surrounded by trees (I live in NE Pennsylvania). I wish the time of year was more ideal to leave the plant outside. Would you say I may be well served to put it outside if the temps will permit throughout the day, and just bring it in when I get home around 6:30pm? We still have a bit of mid to high 60's around here for the time being. If that's a possible approach to give it some much needed constant light, what temps should I be sure to keep it out of (nothing below 60 say?). Thanks in advance.