In your picture, you have an area in the lower left that's open. If that's not your property, you need no stepping stones, and just connect that across with a curved be. If it is, then connect it but put in steps for access. Juniper and arbs won't do in shade at all. Even in part shade, they're ratty. Again, for full, deep shade, there are also yews, boxwood, and some azaelas/rhodos for the deepest shade and there are tons more options for lighter full shade. Clethra anifolia is one of my faves that grows where you are. I have holly growing in deep shade, but you have to accept that it'll have a looser habit. Kalmia latifolia and some camellias work, too. This site is pretty decent, though you'll have to filter the results by zone and whether they are deciduous: http://navigator.gardenpilot.com/ShrubsFullShade.html For sunnier areas, there's nothing in the world wrong with arbs. They have a great shape and habit, and make a lovely backdrop to a busy perennial bed. There are other options for a small space, though. Picea pungens 'Iseli Fastigiate', Cham. pisifera ("Golden Mops" and others), Cham. obtusa Hinoki, (these three are okay for part shade--most conifers are NOT) Bird's nest spruce, dwarf Alberta spruce, and hundreds of other dwarf conifers are great options. There are also non-conifer options like Sky Pencil holly and other Ilex crenata cultivars, many other hollies, and hordes of others. Some of the new camellia hybrids are safe, especially against a building, and a fer pyracantha, too. All these broadleaved evergreens are suited to part shade, too. (In fact, in warmer areas, camellias prefer shade.) Ornamental small trees have their place, too, like the hardiest of the Japanese magnolias, dogwood, and redbud.

Hi again,,,well, We decided to buy a different greenhouse instead of messing with the hfgh,,,I decided it was not going to be big enough. We purchased a 17 x 32 gothic style greenhouse from Griffins. I have had 2 of their models in the past when I had a greenhouse business. I had the 17x48, 2 of them. I don't need one that big, so I went with the smaller one this time. I am going to sell plants on the weekends. I have thousands of seeds started right now in the basement under growlights.

I ALWAYS play nice (well, at least MOST of the time!!!) Okay, pictures have been taken - but not DL'd to computer yet (I'm surfing @ poolside via WiFi... Oh the SACRIFICES I have to make! ;-) I think I've been inspired to post an addendum to my "Garden Page" (you can get there from my webpage, linked below). I haven't done it yet, but I'll try to post my GH erection efforts "Step-By-Step." They won't be as good as conifers'/Dax's pictorial, but I'll do my best (Gotta "Give Back to the Community," right?!!) I think the wood-cutting is still a "hair" off, but the 'errors' will be put on the back-side (next to a fence, where no one will ever walk / have an opportunity to bend the aluminum base). Or maybe I'll add some skinny/lath/shim kinda material for the Too hot to dig up veggies right now, so I'll postpone that 'til early evening (or early tomorrow morning). I'll probably move my "boring observations" to the webpage (When I start it!). I'll just make note, on here, when I post updates - so I won't bore everyone with my long-winded commentary!!! Of course, I'm *sure* I'll have more questions as I go through this - and I *will* post those questions here! And I just thought of another Q: Should I paint the RW base before I assemble it? If so, white (for reflective qualities)? Or black (for heat-sinking)??? Or should I just hold off on that altogether (bearing in mind that it'll be easier to paint BEFORE I assemble it)??? Any thoughts...??? Thanks - AGAIN - for all the support, insight and advice! And thanks - in advance - for enduring my upcoming questions!!! You guys ROCK!!! -Nancy Here is a link that might be useful: IMQTPI's Garden Page (I'll update it soon!!!)

In the peach to buff, to orange and red color range with pink; 'Anna Olivier' is the strongest scented Tea, that I have ever smelled and I've had the joy of smelling every Tea at Vintagegardens.com home garden and S.J.H.R.G.. Crepescule' trumps 'Perle d'or for fragrance, and in our garden is more resistant to disease. All year it is nearly clean. -Monsieur Tillier, which is very disease resistant in my garden where conditions favor p.m. over blackspot. I can only detect a light fragrance from the last two. I have loved Mlle. Cecille Brunner' longer than any other rose, both my grandmother and mother grew it and I have the original form, the spray form as well as the climbing form. The spray form does bloom far more than the climbers. I detect a strong fragrance, of damask rose with a tiny bit of black pepper as a scent note finish from all of them. except the white sport, which smells more like a floral blend with a touch of lemon. with 10 feet left of the spread, I would plant a 'Grandmothers Hat' for fragrance, it has a very resistance to disease, here. In cool weather this rose produces gorgeous lilac-pink blooms with the mauve tint being stronger. It has a long bloom season and the quickest re-bloom of any H.P. I've ever seen or grown. Oh what fun, to have so much room still available. I only water my mature Tea and Tea-Noisette roses c. twice a month in spring and autumn and 3 times a month in the hottest weeks of summer. I don't water them at all in winter, because we get a good amount of rain, usually, during that season. When they are mature sized plants, -the partial shade will lessen the amount of water you need to use. -adding 4"+ of mulch to the bed, (kept a couple inches away from the base of the canes, ) will also lessen the amount of water you use on rosebushes. I often forget to water my Teas and I've never seen their leaves droop, which would indecate dehydration. Lux. P.S. I placed a 'Mermaid' in my backyard against a fence where I have espaliered her size within bounds to where she will grow to be 4 and 1/2 feet from the fence outwards, and I've given her an allotment of 25' width. I adore this rose.