I'll remain calm and focused on the facts, Brent, and I'll refrain from any name-calling. First, I never said it WAS a Mg deficiency, only that if it is a nutrient deficiency, it's likely to be Mg. I think you offered a theory based on a subjective interpretation of what you think a Mg deficiency should look like based on a net search or a book, and on a plant you have never seen. If I am wrong, I apologize, but my being wrong on this point puts you in possession of enough science to argue this point from a scientific perspective, so can we keep it that way, please? I based my reasoning, in part, on the fact that I sent Mike the fertilizer he is using (MG). The fertilizer itself contains NPK, Fe, Mn, and Z. I also added STEM micronutrients to the fertilizer to insure that all nutrients (except the two that are not commonly soluble) would be furnished. The only elements missing from both the fertilizer AND the STEM are Ca and Mg. Though I stated I'm not certain it IS a nutrient deficiency, it's difficult to argue against the logic that IF it is a deficiency, it is almost certainly one of the elements not being supplied (especially since bark and peat based soils are known to be low in both Ca and Mg) or one that is pH induced. We can eliminate the pH induced deficiency of Fe because Mike is growing in a peat/bark blend that he did not lime, which means the pH of the soil is probably quite low, and there is very little or (practically speaking) no Ca or Mg in it. The only other thing that would block uptake of Fe is a toxicity of Mn, and with his fertilizer program, that's not happening. I'll point out again that while experienced plantsmen don't necessarily ignore the photographs offered as being illustrative of deficiency symptoms, they do know that symptoms vary widely, and put far more stock in the known chemical aspects of nutrition that do not vary than in photos or written guidelines that are subjective and guaranteed to vary by plant. I already stated this above, so I'm not falling back on anything, I just didn't feel like retyping it. ;o) Take care. Al

I'll not try Cl. Mme. Caroline Testout right now then,... I'm a beginner, and I think having stiff canes and big thorns on something I'm trying to train over an arbor (or even a wall) would be hard for me. If I get her, I'll try the bush form and just let it be a bush. Melissa, thanks for more info about training Crepuscule! that sounds pretty good! considering that I'm using pinks and hot pinks... would Crepuscule match ok...? The pictures I see online vary a lot. Sometimes it looks light yellow, sometimes peachy. Or would Cl. Lady Hillingdon be better for #4? I've heard people describe that one as being kindof a glowy light yellow, so that could be really nice with the other colors. I suppose I'm leaning away from using a pink climber in the #4 position since I'll have a pink climber on the front porch and a pink sakura tree (though that only blooms spring). I love sages and such, and I'm definitely going to use some sages and lavendars in the front with cl Eden (and I'm guessing I'll use Duchess de Brabrant under Eden) If I have room, maybe I can use some in the back, too? Right now I'm a little unclear on how much space there is. It's hard for me to imagine the size of the final roses and whether they'll tolerate some purple and/or yellow flowers growing with them...! a lot of people have had purple clematis growing along with their roses, but I think in this sunny spot that probably wouldnt' work. I'm lucky in that my neighbors have not done -anything- to their yard yet. There's nothing there but dirt. So I guess I can hope that they won't put a tree there? (or send them a plate of cookies with a request? haa...) As of yet, I don't have any neighbors on the south side at all. #9, I think, in the afternoon is getting shaded by the house. so probably not super scorcher? It sounds like based on what you guys said that I could probably use a Hybrid Musk,... sometimes you probably just have to try things, right?

This is absolutely a topic where each couple has to forge the method that works best for them. There is no one right answer, no wrong one--as LONG as the couple makes their method work. I personally feel extremely strongly that couples need to keep their money separate. DH and I have been married 37 years, have always had our own accounts, our separate investments, etc--and not once EVER have we fought over money (plenty of other things, but never money). After all, being married doesn't make you one person--you don't automatically merge and start using each other's clothes, shoes, jewelry, do you? Of course not. Most couples I know have separate cars--they may occasionally use each other's car, but for the most part, each drives one more than the other. There's absolutely nothing wrong with keeping finances separate. DH and I--while both frugal and very fiscally responsible--have differing investment preferences. I can't imagine having to balance a checkbook every month that's being used willy-nilly by 2 people--it's much simpler to each have your own. Aside from the convenience factor, every person, IMO--should absolutely have enough money put away, IN THEIR OWN name so they can get along for at least 6 months or so. Any number of different disasters can affect one's ability to access community funds. Death, a split, a partner who suddenly decides to empty the joint account, legal action, etc etc etc. I've known too many older women who let their husband's manage/control the family finances who, at the worst time of their lives had to deal with not only losing their husband and planning a funeral, but having also to try to find and understand all the various investments, insurances, savings, etc. When you manage your own money, all your life, you don't have that panic to go through. As to the person who couldn't understand nor agree with individuals wanting money that they could spend without accounting for it? Well, even in the best relationships, one may want to buy the other a special gift--without having to ask for, or justify using the money. To me, as I said above--money is exactly like shoes. It does NOT adversely affect a relationship if each person keeps their shoes and money separate from the other. In our case, I have been so effective at managing my money, that even though I havne't worked full time in over 28 years, I had enough money saved, to be able to buy--on my own--our retirement home 2 years ago, and maintain it financially. I'm proud that I was able to do that for my husband. And he has so much respect for my money managing ability that he recently received a sizable inheritance that he immediately handed to me, and told me to 'do what I wanted with it'--knowing full well, I will care and grow that money for our retirement years, as I have with all other money I've gotten my hands on in the past 4 decades. I'm not saying that our method is right for all (even though I do believe everyone needs some money of their own), but I do wish to illustrate that there are many, many different methods that couples can use, that may work for them. Lastly--I have to make this point--if you knew us, you'd agree that there are few people you know in life who are more married, more devoted to each other than my DH and I--keeping money separate is NOT a detriment to a good marriage, any more than dumping it together will insure one will never get a divorce. Every couple is different, and the more important thing is that the two of you work together, agree on how you will manage money, and then follow through responsibly.

Hi Alex, " How is the indoor garden going, ZM? Any especially outstanding recombinants you have to share? " My indoor garden is just getting started. I have a few seedlings getting their first true leaves, but many are just in the cotyledon stage. My plantings so far have focused on getting F2 recombinants with the Extreme Uproll feature, and a few choice exotic specimens. My further indoor plantings will look forward to what I want to accomplish next year outdoors. Next year I intend to apply some lessons learned this year. For the last few years I have been planting standardized beds 4 feet wide with four rows spaced 16 inches apart.Those rows in that picture have been recently weeded. I don't like to stoop over to weed, and kneeling is not my favorite thing either, Although sometimes kneeling is necessary in some hand weeding situations. This last year I did as much weeding as I could from a seated position using a little adjustable chair.My son avoided a lot of weeding in his tomatoes and peppers by laying down landscape cloth. That seemed to work well for him, although he found that weeds could penetrate the cheaper grade of cloth. However the 15-year cloth cost a bit more, but worked well. He grew his tomatoes and peppers in cages. Next year he is considering the use of Cattle Panels for tomato support. I will continue to use small cages for my breeder zinnia specimens.I didn't consider the use of landscape cloth in my rows, because they are so close together. For next year I am considering omitting the middle two rows and just have two rows 4 feet apart. That might make landscape cloth feasible for me, and even if I don't use the cloth, I will have better accessibility for weeding the two-row beds with 4 feet between the rows. My strategy for now is to flesh out my plans for next year's zinnia garden (including what kinds of zinnias to grow) and then use my indoor project to supply the seeds to support those plans. Your Sunflower Path and House look very inviting. Wider might be better. It looks like you have a good variety of tall sunflowers. More later. ZM