Hi, I won't try answering all your Q's but leave those to the layout goddesses. (Except one thing: you'll maximize the usability of your lower cabinet storage by doing drawers rather than regular cabinets or roll out shelves.) But I'll answer what I can to #4 and #6.

4. Yes, we raised our counters to 39" (I'm 5'11") and they are much more comfortable for us. We have custom cabinets so the cabinets themselves are taller and give us more room. In our pre-reno kitchen we raised the island height by adding trim on top of regular base cabinets. The trim was angled, so the island top had to be bigger, and since it was just trim we didn't gain any extra storage space. But it did make the counter a better height for us.

6. We used Northstar Cabinets in Posen. (We're in the western suburbs but they were worth the drive to visit.) Walter is great to work with. Don't be discouraged if it takes awhile to get a return call and don't be shy about calling back. He gets busy. They did our kitchen and 4 bathrooms and we're very happy with the cabinets. Their website pictures don't really do them justice, but I'll include the link.

Here is a link that might be useful: North Star Cabinets

Where is the sink? In the corner?

Also, have you picked out a specific model fridge? Is it definitely going to be inset, or is that an option you're still just considering at the moment? With that slightly narrow space (36 is more standard than 33) and the island right in front of it, you really need to know your exact door clearance specifications.

Honestly, the island doesn't thrill me. That narrow clipped-corner counter across from the stove is an awkward prep space, so you'll probably be constantly going around the corner between a longer side and the stove. The prep space does not seem convenient to the sink, either.
If the main reason you want the island is not to have an upper at eye level, how about a wall with no uppers on one side?

Chicagoans- thanks for the advice. Does prepping w/ wall cabinets at eye level bother you or is it just me? Perhaps I need to learn to cut faster.

janet_425- Yes, sorry, the sink is in the corner- I'm not really a big fan of that, but don't see a way around it. The appliance models and measurements are on the bottom of the first picture. I ordered a kitchenaid kbls22evms (W: 32 5/8", Depth: 33 3/8") some time ago, but it's still sitting at the store (as are the other appliances) so I can change them. 21.9 cu ft of space seemed like a lot to me in a fridge. Anywhoo, even if I could didn't recess the fridge I could still open the door. Plus, there is drywall over plaster and lath taking up about 2 inches alone on that wall. I am planning on making it inset.

I am not married to the island. You make some good points. I thought clipping it would give me less opportunity to run into it, but then I'm not 2 yrs old, so maybe it's a non-issue. Frankly, it would make it easier to have a squared edge, as I could just buy a cabinet for that. How would I change the prep space? I kind of wanted the 36" cabinet to house larger stuff.
I compost, so a large percentage of foodscraps go in a container on the countertop, not in the trash. The meat scraps would usually go in a pan to be cooked for the dog.

Is 39" of prep space not enough between the sink and the stove? There is that 21+" below the window to the right of the sink. I'm sorry- I've read through the rules but may not understand all the "prep" ones.

I thought about open shelving, but the area closer to the oven would be the side to choose, being more prep-y. Unfortunately I have a microwave for venting above the stove & would rather not switch it out for a hood, as I'd have to find somewhere else for a microwave (in a base cab is not an option for me). I haven't seen an attractive microwave on open shelving combo. Also, I already dislike how easily oil flies around in a kitchen- I can't imagine how bad it would be on shelving.

Everyone I've talked to LOVES having an island (even in small city kitchens), so that's partially influencing me as well.

I meant not married to the current composition of the island, although the idea of an island and I are going steady.

4. Yes, I am tall and disabled from a back injury so I specifically included taller counters in my reno. My perimeter counters are 40.5'' which is a good height for me for cutting and chopping. My island is 38.5'' which works well for stirring and kneading, and people can also still sit there without my buying custom height stools.

If you go with any of the common cabinet manufacturers, you can only get taller cabinets by getting a taller toekick, which looks strange and is a waste of storage space, IMHO. A custom cabinetmaker can make taller cabinets on a normal height toekick. Taller cabinets will also require raising the stove and DW on a platform base, which a custom cabinetmaker can do as well.

I would advise taking a stack of assorted books and putting your cutting board on top, then determine an optimum height for you, as well as for stirring and/or kneading. I would also explore custom cabinetmakers in your area. My custom cabinets were cheaper than I could have purchased from a midgrade line from a major company.

Skimmton, I like your layout. You have room for the island from all I see. Are you in Chicago/Illinois? I am and am getting my cabinets through a lumber yard--a tip I learned here and paying contractor pricing. I can email you with some details if you like.

We are raising island to 40". Our installer is building a tall base that will get wrapped in a tall toekick from cabinet maker.

Your original post said you wanted to prep in an area that did not have uppers, so I was assuming you wanted to use the island as the main prep space rather than that 39 inch counter. It's your kitchen, so you tell us where you expect to prepare food, and whether your island is for prep or seating or storage or what.

What do you expect to love about your island? I had an island in my old kitchen which I hated because it cut off traffic flow and the preparation spaces were awkward. I have an island in my new kitchen which I love because it was designed to do certain specific functions well, and is in the right size, shape and location for those specific functions. In other words, it's not the island itself that is something to love or hate, it's how you want to use it and whether it can serve those functions.

Here is the dimension guide for your fridge. Yes, it fits, but recessing it will definitely make the space feel less tight when you have to open the fridge door all the way.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dimension guide

janet- Thanks for the dimension guide.
On the island, frankly I've been in semi awkward kitchens ever since college, so I guess I didn't realize there's supposed to be just one. I would prefer to be away from uppers, but if I need to wash something, I guess I can prep by the sink & if more prep or no water is required, I can do that on the island.
I intend for the island to be prep, seating and perhaps food serving during get- togethers.
Again, apologies for my ignorance, my last apartment kitchen had a total of 18" of countertop, on which sat my dish drying rack!

Does anyone have ideas on
2. Is there a standard height of crown cabinet moulding by height of cabinet?
& 3. Has anyone used a piece of furniture (buffet or other) for an island? My main concern is it being usable and supporting the granite. I like the idea of having a pretty piece of furniture there & thought I could save some $, but wonder if it would cost me just as much to finish the back as to buy new?

I'm not saying that there should only be one prep area. In bigger kitchens, there'd definitely be more than one. If you want the counter run between the sink and stove as your main prep area, the island could be a secondary one. The island is also a good "landing zone" when the primary prep space starts filling up.

Looking at the other things you want your island to do:

Your island is OK for seating one or two. You can easily seat one at the bottom of the island, but you'll have to be careful to tuck your chair in all the way if you put seating on the side by the door.

The island may be awkward for gathering around, because guests around it are in the way of someone getting something from the fridge on one long side, and in the doorway where others may be coming or going on the other long side. It depends on how many people are in the space and what the traffic flow would be like.

The crown molding -- you should just check with your cabinet people as you get bids. Even within a single style like "shaker" there are different choices. They can find something that will work with pretty much any ceiling height.

I don't have any experience with using furniture instead of a cabinet for the island, sorry.

Hardly a design god but I do enjoy playing with space :-). Can your door leading to the porch swing out the other way instead of into the kitchen? I would replace the radiator with a wall hung heating panel. They are thin against the wall and nice looking. That will give you space for a small seating area there.

I'm not crazy about where the dishwasher is, but you can't put it on the wall that's right angled to the sink as when you opened the door you can't get to the sink. I'm also concerned there might not be enough room to stand in front when it's opened as the island is there. I would definitely panel it, and let the range just be in stainless.

I don't think a corner sink would work as the angled part isn't wide enough for a decent sized sink. The sink would be wider than the space you have to stand right in front of it. I assume you want the sink by the window.

You don't have many upper cabinets so you need a pantry. It would have two doors that have deep shelves for storage there that swing out. Two 12" pull out pantries might be tight as not enough room to stand in front and pull them out, unless you just access from from the sides.

Please let me know what you think!

By the way, if you are worried about clearances between the fridge and the island, you could make the island narrower by using an 18 or 21 inch deep cabinet plus the overhang for seating instead of 24 inches. We changed the depths of one wall of cabinets in our kitchen to gain a longer island that was perpendicular to the run of cabinets. I don't miss the 3 inches in the run of cabinets but in the island, the 3 inches made it possible to seat three stools.

blondelle- interesting options! I do have a storm door on the west door to the exterior porch, but perhaps I could take that out and have the main door swing out- hadn't even thought of it. That wall is 3 bricks thick- not sure what kind of challenges that might pose (if any).

Sink Placement & Dishwasher
I was going for the angle sink because I could scrape food off into the trash on 1 side and put it in the DW on the other. Maybe I need a pet pig :D.
I wonder if anyone's done a trash pull out right before a dishwasher (so you'd go over it)? I guess you wouldn't want your nose in yesterday's dinner though.
Are Paneled DWs a lot more expensive? I believe fridges were when I looked at them.
Dishwasher doesn't have dimension page, but if the door were the total height (not probable), it still wouldn't be 40" (aisle size) when opened. However, that was the other advantage to the angle- to walk around when the DW door was open.

Sink- the Thomasville spec book said that I can get a 30" w sink if I get a 39" corner sink cab. Do you think that's not enough? They have 42" sink cabinets (fits 34" W sink)- I just hated to waste the space. I am concerned with how far back it'll have to be. One KDesigner said that installers can chop away at the sink cab a little (eek). Would like to know what has worked for others.

The "Customer's Hutch"/butler's pantry that does not yet exist will hopefully be something antiquey and perfect and fit all my food as a pantry would- at least that was the idea. Who knows if it exists. I've seen a couple things that almost hit the mark for under $500, but aren't quite there. I have a lot of countertop appliances (espresso, coffee, toaster oven) that I was hoping to put on the imaginary hutch.
I like the seating area. I bet I would like it even more if it wasn't just me in this apt. I like how your layout does not ignore that part of the kitchen as I felt I was.

Do you guys think this island works better? I was worried about b/c all my friends are tall & they'd be knocking knees. Plus I could only ever sit 2 people here. Perhaps I could take Blondelle's longer island and push out the curve a bit. Maybe I'll win the lotto and expand out onto the porch! ha.

Sink specs from Thomasville:

scrapbookheaven- do 18 or 21 deep cabs come standard from companies like thomasville, etc? I don't think I've seen that, but good idea!

Skimmton, I really don't see how you can get a sink in there that's wider than the front angle of the cabinet as you have cabinets on each side. It would have to be several inches from the front. A 30" sink is fine. Also, if you picture the D/W open, there's not much space to stand in the front of the sink at all and you need to, to load the D/W.

I would make the base of the seating in the same wood as the cabinets to tie it in. It's a great place to read the paper or share a cup of coffee or a snack with a friend.

The way the island is in your drawing, it really blocks off the whole kitchen. It would work better if the main entrance to the kitchen would be from the porch, which is can't.

Put your appliances in the island. You can even put a small TV there too, that's visible when you open the door so you can watch when seated.

The island can be two 12" upper cabinets back to back or one 24" and be a little narrower to allow for the D/W opening. The island there now is too large. You need breathing room around the island. The space can't be all filled with cabinets or it won't function well.

Refrigerator...keep in mind some things.

First, to open fully, the doors of your refrigerator must stick out past the surrounding walls/cabinets/counters. This means you can only recess your refrigerator so the carcass/box is even with adjacent walls/cabinets/counters on the hinge side(s). In this case, it's a counter...25.5". The depth of your refrigerator is approx 31". Unfortunately, KA doesn't give all the necessary dimensions, in this case, the depth of the carcass/box. You need this to know how deep you can recess it. Remember, you also need room behind the refrigerator for air clearance (1/2"), water lines for ice maker & water dispenser (probably an inch or two), plug, and, if used, the anti-tip device. The 31" does not include these items. (FYI...the doors on my refrigerator stick out 4" from the carcass/box. This does not include the handles.)

If we assume your refrigerator is similar, then its carcass/box is probably 27" deep (31" - 4"). Add another inch for the water lines and you can probably only recess it into the wall 3" or so. (27" deep carcass + 1" = 28"; 28" - 25.5" = 2.5"; you can go up to another half-inch or so if the door hinges allow it...it depends on the hinges.)

The handles extend out another 2.5". So, this means approx 6" of your refrigerator will extend out past the counters.

This brings us to the second point...your aisle. According to your layout, the aisle b/w the counter and the island is 40". However, in front of the refrigerator, the aisle is only 34" (40" - 6")...rather narrow. That's bordering on too narrow to get the refrigerator in/out without removing the doors...and maybe still too narrow even then. It will also create a "pinch point" when the refrigerator is open...a minor annoyance in this case, I think, b/c it's not a path through the kitchen and a refrigerator isn't usually open for very long (and others could always go around the island.) The concern is the ability to move the refrigerator for cleaning, repairs, or replacement w/o damaging the refrigerator or your cabinets & counters.

The cabinet above the fridge is usually installed so the front of the cabinet box is flush with the refrigerator's carcass/box. You might be able to install it so the cabinet + doors are flush with the refrigerator doors, but you run the risk of hitting your head on the cabinet since you're tall. I recommend sticking with the former.

Dishwasher + Corner Sink...You really need more space b/w the sink and the DW. If you look at the pic with the "Sink specs from Thomasville", note that it recommends a base cabinet at least 15" wide b/w the corner sink base and the DW. You only have 9"...you really need at least 15"; 18" would be better.

As to a corner sink, there are pros & cons. It's a great way to handle a corner and the less-than-optimum storage under a sink base. You combine the sink base and corner storage into one so you only have one place with inefficient storage. However, unless you have a large corner sink base (48" or more), only one person can use the sink at one time. OTOH, there's plenty of space behind the sink for your faucet, soap dispenser, etc. You also don't have to worry about how deep (front-to-back) the sink is b/c there should be plenty of room for everything. But, you do have to be careful how far back the sink is installed, have them install it as far forward as possible and don't let them put any more than a 3" piece of stone b/w the sink cutout and the edge of the counter. This is to prevent the need to lean too far forward to use the sink. (The taller you are, the more important this is.)

Prep Zone...Your Prep Zone will most likely end up on the perimeter b/w the corner sink and the range. That's where your water source is as well as it's close to the range. While 39" is normally enough room for prepping with a "straight line", when you factor in a corner sink and the fact that some of the floor space in your Prep Zone will overlap with the corner sink's floor space, you may not really have enough. I would like to see you increase that 21" cabinet to 30" (and decrease the one on the other end by those 9" to 27"). It will make a big difference in functionality.

I don't recommend putting the DW b/w the sink and range...you really don't want to work over/in front of an open DW if someone is loading/unloading it or a running DW venting heat & steam on you! (If you're very, very disciplined about no one ever cleaning up while someone is prepping or cooking or there's never more than one person in the kitchen at a time, then a DW might be OK, but it's not ideal.) Besides, you should try for as little overlap of Zones as possible.

Seating at the island...The National Kitchen & Bath Assoc (NKBA) recommends the overhang of counter-height seating be a minimum of 15". You have 12". I suspect you've put in 12" so you can fit an island. However, you should be aware that even if you skimp on overhang, people sitting at the island will take up the same amount of floor/aisle space...they'll just have to either sit farther away from the counter's edge or have to lean farther forward...neither of which is particularly comfortable for any length of time.

Some people here swear that 9" or 12" is enough, but I suspect they have very short legs. You, OTOH, have stated you are tall (6'1")...so I doubt very much you have short legs. Our family ranges in height from 5'10" (me) to 6'6" and still growing (my DS). We have a 15" overhang and while my DD and I think it's OK, my DH & DS wish it was a few inches deeper (neither of them sit at the counter very often b/c of this). Honestly, I would have rather had 18" as well, but 15" works OK for me.

One comment: You say everyone tells you they love an island even in a small kitchen. I wonder if they had a better designed kitchen if they would change their tune. Sometimes we don't know any better and think something is the best we can do. In the case of a kitchen, once you work in a well-designed kitchen, you're spoiled! What others think is fine, you know really isn't. People can adapt to anything...even a poor layout...and if they don't know any better they don't know how good it could be!

Aisles...I'm concerned about the aisle b/w the back of the island and the porch door. At most, you have a 42.5" aisle (34" + 8.5"). It may actually be narrower when you start counting door trim, door knob, etc. When the door is open, you may have an issue with chair/door conflict (even an empty chair).

Counter height...You were wondering about counter height. Have you calculated your "ideal" work height? It's not just a matter of height...upper arm length comes into play as well. To calculate your "ideal" work height (it takes two people):

1. Stand up straight with your feet slightly apart and arms straight down at your sides.

2. Now, bend your elbow 90 degrees. Keep your arm against your body.

3. Have the second person measure the distance between your elbow and the floor.

4. Subract 6" from the measurement.

5. This is your "ideal" work height.

Note that work height can be modified by raising the height of the cabinets, installing them on a platform, increasing the thickness of the counter, or by using large, thick cutting boards placed on top of a standard-height work surface (36" off the finished floor).

Crown Molding...Most ceilings are not perfect and the floor-to-ceiling height can vary throughout the kitchen. To accommodate this and to make the differences "invisible", KDs usually either place a significant gap b/w the ceiling and top of the crown molding or use a 2 or 3 piece crown that includes a "filler" piece that is adjusted to accommodate the ceiling height discrepancies. The latter is, IMHO, better than the former. However, to do this successfully, the space for the crown does have to be tall enough so differences in filler piece heights are not noticeable. The shorter the filler piece, the more noticeable differences in height are.

In our case, we have 6" of crown. We have a 3-piece crown molding with the filler (Stock-S) in the middle. The top and bottom pieces remain the same throughout the kitchen, it's only the filler piece that changes height. (We have approx a 1" height difference b/w the "tallest" and "shortest" floor-to-ceiling height in the kitchen.) Here's the design of our crown molding:

Rev-A-Shelf Trash Pullout...I'm sure it will be less expensive to install it yourself after-market. Cabinet companies are notorious for marking up cabinet inserts tremendously. Since cost is a factor, I recommend ordering the cabinet you intend to use for your trash pullout as a full-height cabinet (i.e., no top drawer) with the door unattached. You can then purchase the pullout elsewhere (search the web, you can find it for much less than it is on the Rev-A-Shelf site) and install it yourself.

In the end, this is your kitchen, so you have control over what you end up with. Please, really think about all the things I've mentioned b/f you decide on a final design. You will then be making an informed decision and whatever you decide you will know the pros & cons and know the compromises you have to make.

Good luck!

This is a case where I would recommend using a moveable furniture piece at counter height for the island.

I am generally for doing things in tight spaces, but I think it may be best to not have something anchored in place due to its relationship to the back door. There may be times when a fixed island is a real obstacle.

My kitchen is much tighter and I have a fixed island (very small @ 18 x 36 I think, and only 30 h.) but the top is easily removed and the island is attached to cleats in such a way that it can be moved if absolutely necessary.

If your island is primarily for seating and some storage I think that I would just consider a high table in this case and work on the storage plan for the area you have noted as "hutch"

***3. Has anyone used a piece of furniture (buffet or other) for an island? My main concern is it being usable and supporting the granite. I like the idea of having a pretty piece of furniture there & thought I could save some $, but wonder if it would cost me just as much to finish the back as to buy new.***

I have no idea about finishing the back of furniture, but a local cabinet maker could certainly give you an estimate on that. And of course, they also sell freestanding furniture-like islands with finished backs. A few examples (these are Amish, so be sure to ask if you can customize--making them taller or longer or whatever is generally possible, with an upcharge of course):

* Mission style in oak, maple or cherry with a slate top:
http://www.jjwoodcraft.com/store/mcart.php?ID=311

* Similar one but the top is sold separately--they offer slate or formica for an extra $450-$650-ish--so you could also buy the base and then get your own granite top if that's what you want):
http://www.amish-oakcom/product_info.php?cPath=191&products_id=1239&osCsid=4490e5bf7a2df3aa8aab089a0a00527d

* Similar but with overhanging sides so you can put stools under them:
http://www.amish-furniture-house.com/kitchen-island-mission-is83.html

I could go on and on but you get the idea. There are a bunch more styles at the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Amish freestanding kitchen islands

Here's another, although unconventional option. It still gives you lots of storage with three full height 24" wide, 12" deep pantries, and two full height 24" deep ones. Also storage in island. It would be easy to install and save you money on the countertops. Makes the kitchen a lot more open but still provides ample storage. The island gives you plenty or work space too.

I'm posting to this thread again hoping the original poster will see it. Do you think this approach would work for her? I thought as she wants to save money it would be easy to install as a lot of it is unfitted and it still gives plenty of work space with the island and there's also plenty of storage space with all the pantries even though there's only one wall of 24" deep cabinets.

The fridge is a few extra steps, but it might be the best place for it. What do you think?

Okay. I just took a quick minute to look at what you've got here. I don't know how I missed the post the first time by!

I tried to hit the highlights: The island is still there and now has seating for two, possibly three in a pinch. I haven't done the math but if you had reasonably sized stools I believe you may still have a narrow walk way behind if the stools are slid in. The island could be raised as long as carefull consideration was put into available stool hights.

In order to accomadate that the island has been pulled away from the other cabinets some more to allow two people to walk in that space as needed And further softened the diagnal pieces of the cabinets.

That also changed to a larger corner sink base since you only have one sink you don't want to be cramped and corner sinks are notorious for that. Then you will have a decent amount of room below them to do your trash pullouts and free up the cabinet you are currently using now but can really not afford to lose.

Doing those things ate the hutch. Goodbye, hutch. Sorry about that!

Reversing the door swing at minimum is required to make this work well I think. Some people suggested outswinging and I'd applaud that too. Better yet, that window you are moving? Make it the new door and put a window where the door is now.

With this design it would also be worth discussing nudgeing the range to the right as well so that you have more space between the sink and range. It couldn't go far but maybe enough to make up for my putting in the larger sink.

In this scenario the island is used to unload groceries, unload the fridge, staging area for dishes, extended prep things like unrolling dough and seating.

That's the idea version of this. I don't want to blather on about it if you are leaning another way.

You've got a great potential space. I love the possiblilites!

I think the problem with the island where it is, is that the main work surface is opposite the fridge and so far from the range and sink. It's also in an awkward position near the entrance of the kitchen and working there would block people entering and exiting the kitchen. You can't enter at all if the fridge is opened. The angled part of the island is also an awkward shape to prep on.

The stools are really tight there, and if they can even be pulled out enough to be able to get on them, it can't be too comfortable to eat crammed in against the wall, and have the radiator right on top of you.

There is just too much crammed into that kitchen and the extra bit of counter space between the fridge and the sink isn't worth closing up the kitchen that much with 24" deep cabinets there and making it feel so tight, and partially blocking the entrance

Bringing out the corner sink angle further cuts into the space and you can hardly stand in front of the sink with the dishwasher door open and you lose more storage and counter space. It also creates unusable and inaccessible space in back of the sink, unless you maybe place a raised triangle with some plants there. There's no way to really get in there to water them though.

It's just not a well functioning, comfortable kitchen to work or eat in with that layout. What maybe could be done is to move the outside door down to where the radiator starts and have a island that buts up against the right wall, and change the cabinets on the left wall to 12" full height display and storage cabinets.

Anyway, the OP seems to have disappeared to comment.

Blondelle,

OP or no it's a fun kitchen to work on! Why don't you and I whip it into shape! If we get far enough I'll put it into the 3D program I have and we can walk through it.

My sketches were just tossed in. I didn't spend any time at all doing measurements because you were right, the OP had taken hiatus so while the concept is there the dimensions have taken a vacation. It's just tossed in.

The OPs original had 34" door, 8" Gap and a 12" overhang. That's 54" if you are leaving a standard 24" cabinet for the island core. Now, I want 8 of those inches for the walkway on the others side (to bring it to 48" to accomadate traffic) leaving 46. Then 15" for the overhang area and I still have 30" for the stool seating which is considerably more than many seating areas.

In this case, since there is an assuption of a usual two stools the stools can be reached from either side so there is no need to have room behind the chairs for passing. In effect it is a round table in a corner which is extremely common at less dimensions then this. In fact, once you do the math it's less space then allowed at many dining room situations. The required measurement for a restaurant in that situation is 18" from the table. An additonal foot there should make for a reasonable space. Again, that's a minimum. Only the rounded area needs space for seating so if there are no cabinets below it there could be even more space.

I agree with much of what you are saying about the prep issues with that island. That' why I was specific to say that this island wasn't intended for extensive prep and we'll need to work it in on the other counters.

As far as the diagonal sink in the corner, I enlarged it because I have one. Enlarging it will only eat 3" from each side but makes a HUGE difference for those moments when someone is doing the dishes but someone else wants a drink of water. I originally built the smaller corner sink into the kitchen and then ripped everything back out to put in a larger one. For me, it was the best change I ever paid for.

Now, I'd love to move the patio door down to where the window is and put in big beautiful windows on the other side of the island but I feel like this is a pretty good reply to the OP's original desires. For instance, if you take an island and butt it up against the wall it ceases to be an island and becomes a penninsula.

I think your design definitely has some things mine doesn't, don't get me wrong. However I think the reverse is true as well. While you think the circle doesn't allow enough room behind those seated I think the square design doesn't allow enough room under the overhang for the people to sit comfortably and I feel that it's such a small space for them it's awkward that they don't face each other. The square requires them to share their space with the landing/prep zones on the other side while the cirle moves them back from the main zone. The island becomes a flow killer once we move the fridge, etc.

Some things that are less functional are missing from it as well. For instance, the view from the square island in your design is just the pantry wall. In the circle design the view is out the windows. The view of the kitchen in the square design from the dining room is the side of a pantry cabinet. In the circle it's a granite countertop with barstools and behind that the windows. From the lower door the square view is the back of an island and the back of stools. The circle provides a longer view seeing the front of the island with a large walk space.

I think both designs have merit.

all-
Sorry for taking a vacation!
Unfortunately, I don't have the money to move radiators (& thereby re-doing floors, etc).
I realize that it looks cramped to some people, but it is an apartment in Chicago. It's not uncommon for only 1 person to be able to pass when the dishwasher/oven/even fridge are open. There are 2 people living here.

Blondelle-
in your Thu, Dec 23, 10 at 16:13 post, it has the fridge about 15 feet from the sink. Perhaps this is why you said "unconventional", but I thought this was not allowed? I don't think I'd want to walk that far to wash some veggies. It is nice that it gets rid of the fridge issues though.
I am definitely going to have to ponder the shape of the granite on the island. I hope what blondelle drew is a little oversized, but I get the merits.

I have changed the sink cab to a 42.

Thanks so much for all of your comments! I'm going to post with the pics soon (of the design).