Pantry Shelf Depth
aloha2009
12 years ago
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Comments (17)
cotehele
12 years agodesertsteph
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Pantry set up, shelf depth
Comments (3)Our pantry has one wall of 16" deep shelves and the adjacent wall has 12". I think your builder's plan sounds fine, but you could also have them a little shallower if you'd like. Mine work great for me, but every once in awhile I wish the 12"ers were a little deeper. I haven't wished that with the 16" shelves, but sure don't feel that they're too deep, and I don't think a couple inches deeper would make that much difference in a negative way. Have you seen the pantry thread in the gallery? Lots of pantry photos and info there. Here is a link that might be useful: Pantry thread in the gallery...See MoreNew build kitchen layout advice needed
Comments (16)Here's an idea: The counters and cabinets along the perimeter are all 3" deeper than standard: 28.5" deep counters 27" deep base cabinets 15" deep upper cabinets The deeper cabinets provide a lot more storage and the deeper counters provide more workspace. If your cabinetmaker does not offer 27" deep base cabinets, then simply pull standard depth base cabinets out 3" from the wall. Most, if not all, cabinetmakers offer 15" deep uppers. The Cleanup Zone and Dish Storage are near the Dining Room for ease of setting the table and cleaning off the table. They're also a direct shot from the Living Room. Dish Storage is in a 30" wide dish hutch. The upper cabinet goes from the counter up to the ceiling (or however high your uppers go). This gives you a lot of storage space for dishes, glasses, etc. With the deeper counters, the upper cabinet of the hutch is 15" deep so you can fit all your plates and platters. The two Prep Zones are separated from the Cleanup Zone, which allows you to have someone cleaning up while others are prepping/cooking. With two "primary" Prep Zones, you can have two people doing major prep work at the same time. It also provides you with a choice of where to prep - on the island or b/w the range and cleanup sink. As your toddler grows up, s/he will be helping in the Kitchen, so you will each have your own space! It also allows guests, etc., to help out during get togethers. With the prep sink offset, you have a wonderful expanse of workspace for large projects such as baking, cookie decorating, crafts, school/science projects, wrapping gifts, staging food during parties, etc. Both the MW drawer & wine cooler are on the sides of the island to keep people out of the main work zones. It really doesn't matter which side of the island they're on - you can switch them. I can argue for/against both arrangements. The refrigerator & freezer are on the periphery of the Kitchen for the same reason. The trash pullout is located so it's easily accessible from both Prep Zones, the Cooking Zone, and the Cleanup Zone as well as on the periphery. Small Appliances...There's a mixer lift for your stand mixer and the other small appliances can be stored in the 27" wide drawer bank across from the mixer lift. No appliance garage, but in all honesty, most people end up taking them out when they remodel b/c they take up too much counterspace and the what counterspace there is in front of the garage is useless b/c you don't want to block access. Better to store them where they can be easily accessed without having to move things around or even to shuffle appliances around in a smaller space inside a garage. With the drawers, they're all accessible without shuffling or taking up valuable counterspace. If there's room, you could also store them in the Pantry - 12" deep shelves hold the vast majority of standard small appliances. Cookbooks could be stored in the shelves of the 24" upper cabinet, if you'd like. I ended up storing mine in an upper cabinet next to my hood b/c I forgot to plan for them and that location is actually working out quite well! They're right were I need them! If you have dozens of cookbooks, they probably won't all fit, but you could at least store your most used cookbooks there on 1 or 2 shelves. I put in the Savigny range. It's still quite large, but at least you gained a few inches of workspace! The pantry is a reach-in, possibly step-in pantry with only 12" deep shelves. Built-in pantries are much more efficient and flexible storage if their shelves are not too deep - and they're less expensive! They provide a full view of what you have so there's no opening/closing drawers or roll out tray shelves looking for something Shelves can be adjustable for not only flexible storage initially, but if your needs change later, you can re-adjust them. If needed, you can store larger items on the floor. You have access to the entire space for storage - floor to ceiling. You can even use the side walls to hang a broom or mop. The "sweet spot" for pantry shelf depth is 12". Just about everything will fit on 12" deep shelves - cereal boxes, rolls of paper towels, cans, boxes, small appliances (food processors, mixers, blenders, breadmakers, standard size toaster ovens, toasters, waffle irons, etc.). The shallow depth doesn't allow you to store things too deep so things do not get lost. If you're concerned about organization, get bins or similar to organize smaller items on the shelves. The problem with 24" deep pantry cabinets is that they are not particularly flexible, things get lost in the back and in the "middle" of the roll out tray shelves (especially those above your chest), and if you're not quite sure where something is, you have to open/close multiple drawers/roll out tray shelves looking for the item. In addition, you only have "access" to the internal height of the pantry cabinet - usually quite a bit less than floor-to-ceiling b/c of toekick and limited cabinet heights available, Oh, and they're expensive. . Layout #1: . Layout #1 Zone Map: ....See MoreShelf Depth vs. Bracket Depth
Comments (2)I need to see the shelf, understand what you are putting on it and the barckets you are thinking of....See MoreNeed help picking between 3 options for fridge, cooktop, oven location
Comments (17)@3onthetree I won't have time for adding more dimensions to drawings until a few days from now, but I can quickly answer your questions/address assumptions: - "Stand at the Mudroom and look towards Dining." There is no mudroom. I'm assuming you are referring to my current kitchen, which will be a sitting room/office. The impetus for this remodel is that the house has terrible flow! The door closest to the street and near the carport is the existing kitchen door. This means everyone (me, visitors, etc.) enter into the kitchen. The original house designer put the "front" door in the back, which doesn't work for many reasons. So, the current kitchen will get a spiffed up exterior entry landing, and be converted into an entry area and sitting room/office. The dining room turns into the kitchen. The dining room table moves into the living room and the living room furniture moves a bit. Flow issues mainly solved. - "You see the linen bumpout, whatever #3 is, an opening (barn door?), 2 doors for laundry (wide cabinet doors), a counter inset (coffee), then 2 more doors (slim cabinet doors). Add to that the island, and are those 3 skylights above?" The "linen bumpout" would be flush with my desk and the coat closet, so it should read as a smooth wall. The architect thinks there is a post somewhere near #3--I don't think there is, but there is a bump out, although it sounds hollow. There are 4 planned skylights--two in the entry/office/sitting room and two in the kitchen. They correspond with the new "walkway" through the house. The architect has not accommodated my requests to make a series of doors all the same width along the laundry/pantry/coffee alcove wall. But I measured it out and it can be done. The result would look something like this image of cabinets below: The door is a pocket door, not a barn door. Need to be able to keep the cats out of the "office" when I work. "Continue to the Dining/Living, and it's very simple and elemental there. - The forced items from the wish list seem over-detailed to make them work. Is having an 18" sink, that will splash up onto the sides of the millwork cabinets and has no counter space to set anything, worth the detailing?" No. Agree that it's not worth it. "Is using the stud spaces in the Pantry (a great idea for tiny houses) worth the cost and detailing of a finished backside of the wall material and custom cut shelving?" Yes, because the closet is only about 30" wide, so to get side shelves, you need to go into the studs. My husband likely will make those shelves. "Is the W/D, which has its own smells, humidity, and lintiness, worth it to be near baking supplies or compete with coffee smells?" There is no good place for the laundry. Currently, the laundry is in the kitchen. I played with moving the machines everywhere you can image--all locations are compromises. Laundry generally occurs on Wednesdays and Saturdays, so it's not an all the time thing. I do between 2 and 4 loads per week (with WFH, more like 4, but when I go back to the office, it will be 2 with my work clothes going to the dry cleaner). "The linen needing a custom millwork door size?" All the cabinets will be custom. I want to put my money into the carpentry because I think the return will be great. "So how to fix these examples? Can laundry be moved to the future bath remodel?" The bathrooms are tight. Laundry cannot go in the bathrooms. "Can paint brushes be washed outside or later in another laundry area?" I could add a sink outside. Agree with this suggestion. "Can the entire wall be a simple, uniform cabinet face with storage (both appliance and pantry) and hidden coffee shelf?" Yes! That is what is planned! "Then can this tradeoff of these fixes pay dividends by not needing shelving blocking the windows? It doesn't always work, but KISS might provide relief in other ways." I'm not a huge fan of the shelf in front of the window and don't plan to store anything I need to move on a regular basis on it (I live in earthquake country). I did think it would be nice for my small potted succulents; I can use museum wax to make sure they don't fall off and pots add color to what is otherwise planned to be a wood and white kitchen. "Other thoughts: - Tough call on moving the window. I am trying to zoom the photo if the operable side can be eliminated up to the center picture window (if mulled together) instead of moving the whole unit." I'm getting new windows :). So mulling can be as needed to match cabinetry lines, sink placement, etc. "But it seems the payoff of moving the exact same window over 15" isn't worth it." Agree. "- Wing wall: surprised there is not a roof post there in addition to the 6 switches." There is a post, but at the far end of the wing wall. "- Washer depth 32" is front to back - common 26" deep + 4" duct" The dryer is ductless and the washing pipes can go in the stud wall. I need 29.5" of depth at a minimum. "- Option 2 has a range hood on the Office pocket door (mounting + vibration)" True. Hadn't thought about this. - There are ways to do things that might ease a bit of the costs, for instance moving/reducing the window: with the siding, you can bring in another color/material/pattern and possibly continue the design language similar to this concept:...See Morerosie
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