Regarding the photo below, which shows my pantry, the shelf spacing from bottom to top: -The bottom area (19") was figured by the size of the roll-out bins I wanted to use -the next 2 (14-15") were for storage bins, small appliances like my grain mill, and gallon-size containers of things like vinegar and canola oil -the next 2 (10") were for dbl stacked canned goods -the one above them was sized at 14" again for cereal boxes, etc. Taller things that were lighter in weight -that left the top 22" for paper goods, baskets, etc. Shelf depths: 16" on the back and 12" on the side. I did an L shape with the shelves, as the corners are a pain and I wanted a blank wall for hanging aprons and some cleaning tools. The canned goods get lined up from back to front, so there are no mysteries hiding in the back of the shelf. There is lots about this in the pantry thread in the gallery. There got to be so many great threads about pantry configurations and with photos that Starpooh helped me by saving some to a pdf and recommending I post it in the gallery since things stay around longer there. I'd worry about putting deeper shelves up higher, as the reach and visibility will be difficult, and for anything heavy, possibly slightly dangerous. Might be OK for you, but will the kids always do things the right way instead of the easy way, which is usually riskier? Mine wouldn't always and probably I wouldn't either! ;) It would feel odd to work under those deeper shelves to access the shallower ones. Here is a link that might be useful: Pantries thread in the gallery

Something to consider in the "money" equation... If you're getting a stone counter, your fabricator will most likely charge you more to "angle the square edge of counter". Fabricators charge extra for angle cuts...whether on an end, on a seating overhang, or a diagonal corner. How much more? I don't know, but I would look into it b/f assuming it would be less expensive to do the angle cut. I know you don't want "grief" about the ROTS, but if you ordered a pullout (door(s) attached & pulls straight out), this would not be an issue! You would need enough filler to clear the door trim of the nearby doorway, but that's all. If it's not too late, it's something to at least consider. (The tall pullouts can be split into 2 or 3 sections...each w/a door and pullout shelves attached so you only need to pull out the section you need.) As to the refrigerator box...yes, the doors must stick out past the alcove, but doors look fine; it's the refrigerator carcass/box that looks "unfinished" when it sticks out. The other thing to check is the walls of your refrigerator carcass...many of them have black walls & SS everywhere else. Just some things to think about!

I would plan a U shaped pantry, narrow sides and deeper back as others suggested. I would use this system of standards and clips. You can get six and eight foot standards in your local Home Depot kinds of stores. I would buy shelf standards like these. http://www.amazon.com/KV-Steel-Shelf-Standard-White/dp/B001DT3158/ref=sr_1_23?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1426270270&sr=1-23&keywords=shelf+standards Screw two standards on the front and back walls beside the side walls--a total of 8 standards--to hold the narrow side shelves. Put four more standards, two on each side, on the side walls at the back to hold the back shelves. Then buy a big bag of clips like these http://www.amazon.com/Shelf-Support-Clip-Bag-Brass/dp/B0006FKPWM/ref=pd_sim_hg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=10DWWFG09XYXW9XGDRK6 Cut your shelves to length from 1x6's and 1x12s. Or use plywood and cut to fit. I would suggest six inch deep shelves on the side walls, 12 inch deep shelves on the back wall. Okay if you want a few deeper shelves at the back on the bottom. 1x6 and 1x12 inch boards will be fine over the spans you are using. You will rest each shelf on two clips at each end. Don't worry about vertical spacing. You can adjust these endlessly, add or remove shelves, whatever. It will not be expensive and it will be efficient. You can efficiently eliminate wasted vertical space. The side and back shelves will overlap each other in the corners. Not ideal, but you can adjust each side and the back shelf independently, which is highly desirable. It will be quick, inexpensive, and efficient.

This: "It may not be the most attractive pantry out there, but it’s functional. It doesn’t need to look like a magazine photo." So smart! People get hung up on the Pinterest-worthy "organization" pictures, but more of those aren't -really- organized; they're pretty-fied. I'm so glad fo ryou, that you're able to focus on the functionality. Lazy_gardens highlighted one of my own main themes: too much space between shelves. Brilliant solution, your shoe shelves! And this: "We became empty-nesters and I had not kept pace with the decreasing demand. My daughter was a late-night impulse baker and I’d kept things on hand for her." I think this happens to us all. That we have one paradigm, and then when life changes for us, we are slow to update. You've gotten a big head start on redefining your storage. I'm in admiration of this: "The only place where I retained the stacking bins was on the shallow wall-mounted shelves. They were already working for what I used them for" Good for you, for recognizing something that's working, and not tossing it out just because.