Removing old 'stick built' cabinets without destroying the walls?
hackwriter
12 years ago
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oldhousegal
12 years agobrickeyee
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Can we fix kitchen floor without removing cabinetry?
Comments (6)A lot will depend on which way the joists run in the room and exactly what the source of the squeaks and humps are due to. You might be able to get by with using a flush cut saw, but if the cabinets are resting on the subfloor on a joist that will need to be sistered or otherwise beefed up and not sitting the right way, they will have to come out. Yes, you will need to replace the entire subfloor, and that will need to be done from above. I think it's time you cut a hole in the floor and did some exploring as to your joist's unsupported length, depth, and height. Cut a hole where the hump is, and see what you see. A lot of times, that's where a cross beam supports long span joists in the center and they aren't really robust enough so that lets them sag on both sides. That's where sistering the joists may come in. You can't tell until the floor and subfloor is gone....See MoreCutting hole in stick-built cabinets for dishwasher - DIY?
Comments (33)We looked into portables but don't have room to put one. Also there are no used ones under $100 for sale near us, the few times we've checked. (I'm also squeamish and don't care to own a used dishwasher.) :-) The family is rooting for us to put a dishwasher in to make our lives more comfortable and convenient while waiting to buy. They know that not having a dishwasher is a drawback and deterrent to would-be buyers, too, so they feel this would help cover their investment should we decide to back out for some reason (we don't plan to unless the world ends). I LOVE to cook and cook elaborately and not having a d/w has forced me to resort to paper plates and many, many sandwiches and heat-ups. Believe me, we've thought this through and through, moving from/selling a home with a remodeled kitchen to this one, and have done the "trial period" of living w/o a d/w for 7 months now. Yep, I really want one. And the one I am getting will be the same one that gets re-installed into my remodeled kitchen -- researched them till my eyes bled. So it's not an impulsive decision for sure. :-)...See Moreremoving non-adjustable shelf from 60 year old "built in" "cabinet"
Comments (7)@ mike - I was thinking about a multi-tool. Home Despot has the Ryobi on sale for $28. I was wondering - I had been considering getting a dremel tool anyway because I need to do things like cut solder blobs to remove the end panels on bird cages and to cut cabinet door knob bolts off flush... Could a multi tool be configured to do either job? I wonder if because of the vibration I might not be able to hold it steady enough to not cut through the wires on the bird cage. Some of those solder blobs don't have a lot of clearance. I mean the standard dremel tool, not their version of the multi tool. I used to have one when I was still doing silver work. Here are a couple pictures of what I mean about sawing through solder blobs. The wire panels on these bird cages are held to the frame only by these small solder blobs and having end wires that slot into openings on the frame. So if I remove the solder blobs I can slip the end panels off, zip tie the cages together, and have one ginormous bird cage. This is a solder blob that is close to the wires: Below is a solder blob with plenty of space to saw through it: Don't get me wrong, its not that I don't like tools - but I'm sort of past using them most of the time, and I'm not exactly in the economic upper echelon. I got mo' problems, but I sure don't got mo' money, LOL! So I'm wondering if the multi tool in my not so steady anymore hands can do this job as well, or if I'd be better served to stick with the less vibrate-y and (I think anyway) more flexible and maneuverable regular ol' standard Dremel tool. Also, here are the type of cabinet knobs I'm talking about. The way these ought to be installed is, you drill a well - a hole that doesn't go all the way through - on the back of the door or drawer where you will be installing the knob, centered over the hole for the bolt. It should be as deep as the holding nut is tall or maybe a little deeper. You should be able to grab the nut with needlenose pliers to stabilize it when screwing the knob on. So wide enough to do that. Then you saw off the excess post sticking out so its flush with the back. So you don't have that long post sticking out into your drawer. This type of mount isn't usually used in better furniture, and isn't possible at all if you've got the crappy particle board/composite stuff that we mostly get stuck with these days. I see a lot of these installed incorrectly, leaving that post sticking way out like that. Anyway. I'd like to use some of these on my kitchen cabinets so I'd need to be able to cut that post off flush. I know I can do it with a Dremel, but can a multi-tool do it as well? Or does the vibration make precision a distant dream? LOL!...See Moreis there anyway to install drywall without removing kitchen cabinets?
Comments (25)I actually got a very good cut, around them, so I did a lot of the mud with my fingers. And sandpaper after dry. It is just a very slow process, but, it can be done. Since you have already painted your cabinets, you just might have to sand a bit on your cabinets after the mud is dry. Of course, then, you will have to repaint that end. It just takes time, and it takes patience. If your gap is too big, you may be able to use a bit of tape. Mine was a very tiny spot, because the drywall fit very close. The two mouldings you see on my cabinets are original, but, I did remove them, and didnt put them back on, until the wall drywall was taped and mudded and sanded and primed and painted. In my case that all took a while, because, I had paneled ceilings too. Also my kitchen is open to the dining room, and the hall, so there was many square feet of sheetrock put up. I had a relative and a friend put up the drywall. I did all the taping, and all the mudding and all the sanding, and priming and painting and all the corner beads. It took a full year, working by myself, after the sheetrock was up. Started in January, and finished one week before Christmas. I didnt paint my cabinets until 2 yrs later, because, I injured both shoulders using an electric sander on the ceilings....See MorePeterH2
12 years agoPeterH2
12 years agoUser
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12 years agodianalo
12 years agohackwriter
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12 years agobrickeyee
12 years agohackwriter
12 years agoM Rix
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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