It can be done; it was done by a previous owner in my kitchen, in an attempt to refresh the kitchen for sale. We didn't realize a layer of sheet rock had been added until we decided to change the countertops prior to moving in. You'll need to pull the receptacles out to be flush with the new sheetrock, and you'll lose a bit of counter depth (the thickness of the sheetrock). You might also run into problems where/if the sheet rock meets door and window casings. I have no idea if this is addressed in safety codes, but future remodelers will not thank you.

I kind of like painted paneling, but I'm a big fan of beadboard, too.

so did they just install the Sheetrock over top of the paneling or did they cut out the paneling and replace it with the Sheetrock?

I have heard of filling the grooves in the paneling with joint compound to smooth out the look. Would takes some research and a LOT of sanding and prep work, but you might google it. Could be a solution. Filling grooves in paneling

Are you planning on a backsplash? A budget approach for that at least could be filling in the grooves then adding ie peel & stick tile

Scroll down to the bottom of this thread to see someone who did that - looks really nice!

[https://www.houzz.com/discussions/help-me-choose-a-wallpaper-backsplash-dsvw-vd~5364211[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/help-me-choose-a-wallpaper-backsplash-dsvw-vd~5364211)

Remove one of the receptacle covers and see if there is drywall behind the paneling. If so, it may be possible to remove the paneling if it wasn't glued to the drywall behind it. You'll need to look for nails in the grooves of the paneling sheets. A word of warning. You're opening a can of worms trying to remove the paneling.

I am planning a backsplash, however what kind hasnt been decided yet. I would love just a normal white subway tile backsplash but from my understanding they can't be installed over paneling.

They installed sheet rock over old sheet rock on the walls, which was no big deal. We were replacing laminate counters with new laminate--same 4" integrated backsplash, so we just slid it back in place and added a tiny cove moulding.

The real fun came years later, when I removed part of the soffit above the upper cabinets, and found that they had added a layer of sheet rock over some type of paneling-type wall board (it was printed with a kitchen-related motif). I had to use a reciprocating saw to cut through the layers. There's also a thin strip of rock on the bottom of the soffits, against the upper cabinet face, so it will all have to be removed it I ever decide to replace the uppers, which I probably won't.

ETA, forgot to mention--when I changed base cabinets and counters 7 years ago I removed the second layer of sheet rock between the uppers and counter, and installed beadboard on the walls. New counter doesn't have integrated backsplash, so there was a gap.

There is no drywall behind the paneling.

it can be cut out probably, easily, replaced with backer board and on to tile. Get a skilled person to talk to you. You will have grade differences between the edge of paneling ….and where backer board starts..... they need to have stud locations for attaching your new board/etc....but there are ways to do this. thickness of paneling?? possible thinner backer board could go over thin paneling...if that's what you have. If you have a pro looking at your counter and doing template.....do they have backsplashes in their skills?

How do you plan on finishing edges from rock to cabinets? Sheetrock does not cut that accurately so you would have to then introduce some sort of molding set up all around the cabinets. Maybe better color and a little more wall prep and they will look better. Everybody trying to add texture with ship lap although your lines are vertical it might work with correct colors.

You could install 1/4" drywall over the paneling and put your backsplash on top of that. As wannabath mentions, however, you'll have to figure out what you're going to do around edge of your cabinetry as drywall won't leave a neat edge. Trim pieces would probably be the best solution. Visually, you'll lose 1/4" depth on your cabinets so keep that in mind.

It is very thin paneling and im pretty sure I'll be able to find some sort of way to clean up around the edges of the cabinets once the time comes.. I'm still torn on whether I should install the drywall directly over top of the paneling or if I should remove as much as I can and replace it with the drywall?

Why can't you tile over paneling? Is it because it's too flexible? I bet it's okay for a backsplash. But doing a thin layer of drywall or other substrate over it isn't a bad idea.

Your concern is probably all the other walls that aren't getting tiled, right? There are thick paintable wallpapers that are meant to smooth out...you know what? You might be better off just doing the thin drywall over everything. An extra bonus is that drywall is better in a fire--pretty sure code says you can't put up paneling without drywall anymore just because it's a fire hazard that way.

Fori, from what Ive read it is because paneling tends to shift and bend over time, it's just not a good idea for tile. . But yes, my MAIN concern is the remaining walls that are not going to be covered with some sort of backsplash.

Drywall is not a super fun thing to install (but it's better than wallpaper!). But there are worse things (wallpaper). What kind of trim do you have around doors and windows? Can you butt drywall up to it or would it have to be reinstalled? Do you have a good stopping place for the drywall? Is it nuts to even consider drywalling your kitchen at this point in time?

I would guess that the paneling is held in place where the cabinets attach and if you can't move it by pushing on it, you are probably fine to tile it but....if you hate the lines you hate the lines and you gotta do it alllllllll......

I'd go right over the paneling though--it's thin and there's no reason to get in there. Eww.

I would repaint the paneling so there is less of a contrast with the cabinets. Right now the color is drawing attention to the walls.

Use a utility knife to cut the paneling. Install drywall. Finish visible edges with drywall 'L Bead".

You need to remove the trim, and baseboards, etc to install the sheetrock, even if you go over the paneling with 1/4 inch sheetrock. Then, you need to cut thin 1/4 strips of wood, to nail with small nails over the framework of the door and window frames, before you can put your trim back on. Baseboards will still go on fine without anything else done to them. The 1/4 inch strips will bring your door and window frames out to be even with the new 1/4 inch sheetrock. You can also go to Lowes, or most hardware stores and buy metal, or plastic (depends upon what your outlet boxes are made of) inserts to put into the box to extend the outlook boxes out to be even with your sheetrock. If your trim is in great shape, once you remove it, you can reuse it, however, if not, then this is a great time, to buy new baseboards and window and door trim.

Tony Stevens, the cabinets can not be removed without severely damaging them.. They are the old, built in place kind.

Here is a picture of a finished edge, done over the paneling with 1/4 inch sheetrock. These cabinets are also older (1968) and were built in place and cannot be removed, unless the kitchen were gutted and they were totally torn out. I would never replace the cabinets, because, these cabinets are custom built and they are built extremely well. It takes a bit of time to carefully do that edging, but, it can be done. I done this one, in 2013. I am a female and was 75 yrs old at the time, so pretty sure, anyone that puts time into it, can do the same. I had several places to do like this.

Cat_ky My cabinets are the exact same way! They are solid and have held up for years, i feel like it would have been a waste to tear them out. Yours turned out great though! Could you give me a little more detail on how you finished your edges around the cabinets? I have never done any drywall, so this is totally new to me.. I'm determined though!

I actually got a very good cut, around them, so I did a lot of the mud with my fingers. And sandpaper after dry. It is just a very slow process, but, it can be done. Since you have already painted your cabinets, you just might have to sand a bit on your cabinets after the mud is dry. Of course, then, you will have to repaint that end. It just takes time, and it takes patience. If your gap is too big, you may be able to use a bit of tape. Mine was a very tiny spot, because the drywall fit very close. The two mouldings you see on my cabinets are original, but, I did remove them, and didnt put them back on, until the wall drywall was taped and mudded and sanded and primed and painted. In my case that all took a while, because, I had paneled ceilings too. Also my kitchen is open to the dining room, and the hall, so there was many square feet of sheetrock put up. I had a relative and a friend put up the drywall. I did all the taping, and all the mudding and all the sanding, and priming and painting and all the corner beads. It took a full year, working by myself, after the sheetrock was up. Started in January, and finished one week before Christmas. I didnt paint my cabinets until 2 yrs later, because, I injured both shoulders using an electric sander on the ceilings.

Have you considered painting the paneling to match the cabinets? And, there are some amazing wallpapers out there, including wallpaper that looks like sheetrock.