help! shouldn't custom cabinets also be painted inside?:
smplfy
13 years ago
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rhome410
13 years agobreezygirl
13 years agoRelated Discussions
I know I shouldn't, but.......
Comments (28)I'm another one who would vote for telling your kids, but doing it in such a way as to not tell them outright to go tell their dad, but in such a way that they will think they've got a great secret that they're telling him. Or, just go out and buy a box for yourself, either before or after the holiday, depending on how much you want to spend. But I am totally against sending it to yourself or doing anything that would lead your husband to even remotely think that the candy was a gift to you from someone else. That's game playing, and at this stage of your marriage, especially since you say he's always been faithful and provided well for you, that's just wrong....See MoreTell me why I shouldn't buy Gilmore cup pulls from RH
Comments (16)I will update this again. After my inexpensive builder recommended cup pulls failed to arrive (perpetually back ordered), I became desperate to get hardware ASAP. There is a RH store nearby, and luckily they were having their F&F sale again. So, I cleared out their stock (all 8 pulls lol) and ordered the rest from the store. They arrived at my house in two days. Oh.my.goodness. They are gorgeous on my cabinets! Absolutely gorgeous! They haven't all been installed yet, but the ones that are there are amazing. Soon i will have pics to share. I love when things just work themselves out. I will be smiling about these pulls and knobs for a long time. I have no idea what is wrong with me- how can cabinet hardware make me this giddy?!? Lol....See MoreShouldn't do it, but can you check out my layout?
Comments (45)I think the fridge location could go either way, but I'd definitely lean towards swapping it with the ovens, but that's because in *my* house the "browser" traffic to the fridge is at least 50-100 trips a day, but the "chef" traffic is more like a dozen trips. When I'm cooking, I like to get all my stuff out of the fridge and at the ready in one or two trips instead of grabbing as I cook. But kids and others are constantly going in and out for drinks, condiments, snacks, etc . . . so I wanted my fridge convenient to snackers and browsers and diners. :) I also like keeping hot stuff far away from seating. :) Also, if you move the cooktop to that side wall, then also moving the ovens allows you to use the cooktop as a landing zone for hot stuff out of the oven, which I personally find very convenient. Also, if you leave the fridge where it is but move the cooktop, I don't like having the fridge (browsers, drink getters) so close to my cooktop and thus the fridge landing space (for drink prep) being right there by my cooktop. So, yes, I'd swap the ovens and the fridge. I do think moving the cooktop to the side wall is a *great* idea. That would be a huge improvement IMHO by increasing the workspace between the sink and the cooktop and separating the clean up zone from the cooking zone by some good workspace for both the clean up person and the chef. In my kitchen, when major cooking is underway or recently completed, it is not uncommon for me to have 36" or so of counter space (above the dishwasher and beyond) covered in hand washed items drying -- piles of cookie sheets, large pots, knives, crystal, etc, so I need at least that much space on the "clean" side of my sink free for that without impinging on cooking/working/serving/prep areas. Meanwhile, I need at least 24" free on the "dirty" side of my sink for the stacks of dishes awaiting processing/loading into the dishwasher and/or sink for washing. So, that means my cleanup zone really needs (and has) 8 linear feet of space for the 24" dirty counter + 36-39" sink base + 36" clean space. I have that much space for it, and it all gets used. (My trash pull out is under the "dirty" side of the sink . . . but you could tuck it under your sink base if you plan it right and have a compatible sink and plumbing locations.) I'd absolutely die (obviously not really, but still) if I didn't have a trash pull out near the "dirty" side of my sink for scraping dishes. If you can't fit the main trash pull out there and want it over by your prep/cooktop area (assuming you do move it to the side wall), then I'd only do that if I could fit a second nice trash pull out UNDER my dish sink. Even if that sink pullout is a bit smaller than the typical kitchen trash pull out, it'd be sufficient for me. Not ideal, though, and I'd really try to have it to the side of the sink. FWIW, our dishwasher opens to a 42" aisle (45" cabinet to cabinet), and walking by it when it is open is no problem at all. It's not in a super high traffic zone, but we do walk by and around it when it is open all the time without any trouble. I wouldn't go crazy about the window size, even though I do agree that a wider window would be better. If you do stick with the smaller window, do be careful to keep your cabinets away from it a bit, as the cabinetry crowding the window will block even more light. I'd definitely give up that under-counter cabinetry where your seating is. Make the island a bit narrower, allow 18-21" overhang for diners, and let go of the idea of using cabinets for storage under there. It'd be super awkward to access, and cabinets cost $$ . . . redirect that $$ to other items on your wish list. If you cabinets are custom, you could make those island cabinets extra deep (say 30") which will dramatically increase their storage capacity. (I have just one stack of 30" deep drawers, and I swear they have twice as much capacity as the standard depth ones, although I know that is mathematically impossible, lol.)...See MoreShould I paint the inside of NEW custom cabinets?
Comments (14)@Jennifer Michalec The drawer fronts and doors appear to be poplar, that's not a bad thing, I just wanted to point that out. The best I can tell from the pictures, the boxes were made from cabinet grade plywood that was unfinished on both sides. There is cabinet grade plywood available that has a UV cured finished on one or both sides. That's what is commonly used so the cabinet inside already has a finish. It sounds like your insides are unfinished plywood. Is that true for the drawer boxes as well? Don't paint the insides. If it's raw, unfinished wood, I would suggest you finish the insides with an oil based polyurethane. I recommend oil based because rather than brushing, you can wipe it on. They sell wiping polyurethane but it's easier and cheaper to just make your own. By wiping on the polyurethane you can get a finish that looks just like it was sprayed on. It's also faster and easier than applying by brush. Oil based polyurethane will amber over time. But it's inside the cabinet and many ready made cabinets have wood look vinyl covering on their insides as well. You can learn more about wiping poly here: https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/wiping-varnish-shootout/ Here's a brief description of wiping on poly from the Marc the Wood Whisperer: "The Wiping Method Now there is yet another way to apply polyurethane that I feel is the easiest, beginner-friendly method. And frankly, it’s the method I still use. It involves abandoning brushes all together. Here’s what you do. Thin the varnish 50% with mineral spirits, paint thinner, or naptha. Then get yourself a clean cotton rag (old t-shirt material works great), and fold it into a nice square applicator pad. I like it to be palm-sized. Wet the applicator with your thinner and then dip it into your diluted finish. Wipe on smooth thin coats, overlapping the previous stroke with each pass by about half. This method will result in a super smooth finish with no bubbles and no brush strokes. But remember, you will need to apply twice as many coats to get to your desired film thickness. Because you are actually applying less material to the surface, the dry time is significantly decreased as well. So in some climates (hot and dry), you’ll be able to apply as many as three coats per day. Just remember that when you use a wipe-on urethane, you aren’t trying to flooding on a real thick layer. You are just coating the surface evenly with a thin wet film." If you go the water based poly route, it has to be brushed. There is no water based wiping poly. It also drys extremely fast and won't get nearly as nice a finish appearance wise (i.e., brush strokes unless sprayed). Water based poly will not amber over time. If you had an HVLP spray rig, I'd say water based poly but I'm guessing you don't....See Moreartemis78
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