Deep fridge at end of cabinet run- can it work?
Kiwigem
9 years ago
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desertsteph
9 years agopractigal
9 years agoRelated Discussions
Should fridge cabinet be as deep as fridge?
Comments (24)I definitely wanted a full-sized frig, not counter-depth, so I had my cabinets bumped out about 6 inches so the frig front would line up flushed with the cabinets. It looks as close to built-in as it can be without being counter-depth. Absolutely love it!! I have my broom/utility closet on the left split in half length wise. One side for for vacuum, step ladder and broom, etc. and the other half with small shelves for cleaning products, toolbox, etc. I also had my contractor install an electrical outlet in the closet for charging small appliances if needed. Here's a couple of shots...sorry, the second one barely shows the side of my frig but I wanted to show depth. href="http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh117/coolmom1/?action=view&current=sideIMG_1309_61.jpg" target="_blank">...See MoreAdding dish washer at the end of a cabinet run -- help!
Comments (14)A fairly inexpensive way to replace the counter (and would look great with white cabinets) would be to use butcher block from Ikea and seal them with Waterlox. You will need to screw the cabinet into the back wall (use finish washers behind #10 screws, probably 2 1/5 inches long - make sure to find the studs and avoid electrical/plumbing.) Also, you could find the studs behind the intended dishwasher and screw in a piece of 2x4 or metal brackets along the back wall to help support the countertop. If you use the 2/4, I would recommend sealing it so moisture from the dishwasher would not hurt the wood of the support I am concerned about people hitting their heads on the corner of the cabinet above the fridge once the fridge is relocated (they are usually counter depth, though it is difficult to tell from your photo.) There will be a lot of bending in that space to fill and unload the dishwasher. We ran into that type of head bumping when we were relocating our fridge before the cabinet came down. I guess it depends on your height - I didn't have problems, but my dh and guests did. Anyone 6' or taller. But I don't think that you would want anyone hitting their heads on the cabinet corner. I would really recommend replacing that cabinet if it is counter-depth. If it is the same depth as the other upper cabinets, you could get by with shelves below. If you moved it down, added some bead board behind it along with a couple of corbels and some crown molding, it could be really sweet. But with all of those add ons, it would probably look just as good as purchasing a single new cabinet with doors - I had suggested the glass door cabinet above because it complimented your doors without exactly matching. Hope this helps....See Morecorner cabinet at end of wall run?
Comments (25)Late to the game! First, I agree about running the cabinet to the end of the wall rather than a corner cab...to me, corner cabs that just hang there w/no other upper cabinets on both sides look "off". Second, I also agree the cabs at the end of the peninsula should end "short" of the peninsula end, but I don't think it has to be 12" short. Our upper cabinets end approx 1" b/f the base cabinets do and then there's a 1.5" overhang over the base cabs...so the upper cabs end approx 2.5" before the peninsula as a whole does. We have had no problems with bumping into the upper cabs and we use that peninsula for food staging, baking, etc. Our Pet Center is next to the wall facing out and still no issues with the upper cabinets. I would suggest stopping maybe 3" from the end, but no more. Third...your cooktop & sink proximity...they are very, very close to each other with virtually no workspace b/w them. I very, very strongly suggest moving that 3-drawer stack that's currently to the left of the cooktop to the other side of the cooktop. That would at least give you a little bit of work space. Last...the base corner susan you have in the peninsula. Consider, instead, a 27" wide cabinet turned 90 degrees so it faces out instead. It is a better use of space than a corner susan and much, much better than a blind corner cabinet. That would allow you to move that drawer base to the right of the cooktop (suggested previously) and still have a 12" or so wide set of drawers or a tray/cutting board cabinet to the left of the cooktop. Here's mine...with the upper cabinets and a cabinet turned 90 degrees. Pet Center is the base cabinet on the left that has a drawer on top. The doors on the right are decorative doors only. This is what it looks like from the "inside"... (I now store my KA mixer in that corner. I use that peninsula as part of my "Baking Center".)...See MorePhotos of range at the end of a cabinet run
Comments (42)I'll play around the the diagonal idea this weekend. I just did some quick trigonometry and that solution might work (unless I have overlooked something). If someone wants to check my math: The two walls leading into the corner are 60" long each. I'm working with a 30" range (which is about 28" deep). As Pythagoras would have it, my stove and the triangular corners leading up to the stove (as well as the wasted space in the back) would take up 33.82" of the wall space on each side of the corner. I'll round that to 34" for good measure. This would leave me 26" on either side to work with. That sounds like alot! I was expecting less. Does anybody see any glaringly obvious errors?...See Morejdez
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