What is your current aisle width to the island? This is important. If you are comfortable reducing that width everything else is doable. We have a full depth Samsung french door that is in a run of base and wall cabinets that are pulled forward to match the depth of the refrigerator. The added bonus for us is that while the cabinets are pulled forward the counter depth is an extra 6" deep along this run so we added appliance garages along the whole length under the upper cabinets. The stand mixer, the toaster, the food processor, the bread machine, etc. are all housed in there but we still have enough functional room in front of the appliance garages---about 18"---to use for a sandwich and breakfast making area. So much depends on your actual measurements and how you intend to use the space. Good luck.

Sorry, typo! I meant the 2060, a freestanding right-door opening fridge, which is what I actually linked. I will link it again here. @tinyone. Can you provide measurements around the cut out and the distance in inches from the interior of the cutout to the wall? Without that information it's hard to truly help. @sjhockey - I agree that a right opening door is not ideal. But it offers the best chance of opening enough so the fridge actually can be used. Unless there is enough clearance it can't open left because even a 0-clearance hinge fridge has a handle which will hit the wall and may not fully open. But we can only make "if this" suggestions without the facts/ measurements. Given the facts the OP has posted so far, I don't believe the agent is right. I think I am right. But that could change depending on how far it is from the fridge cutout to the wall on the left and how much space there is between the ovens and the cut out on the right. And if there's enough space for the door to swing open in the aisle between the fridge wall and the island. @tiny -- if you are doing other work in the house, a competent GC could make this all go away very easily. Depending -- again -- on the current location of the electrical outlet in the fridge cut out and the location of the water line it might need an electrician and a plumber in addition to a carpenter who is good enough to do fine finish work and alter an existing cabinet well enough to reuse pieces as needed. If a GC has a good crew, that's the way to go. The percentage paid to him will be worth it as he will be responsible. But I wouldn't let anyone touch anything until you ID a fridge that can function in the space somehow and after you've identified what will need to be altered more or less. Then I'd meet with the GC with the spec sheets in front of you to discuss his suggestions on how to go forward and what it will cost. Only after that would I make a purchase. OTOH, if the cabinet store that furnished the cabinets is known, might be worth a call to them. But then no one person is responsible. I also would be careful about where I purchase the fridge. It weighs 400 pounds. It needs to go from the truck to the door of the house closest to the kitchen. When my fridge was delivered it was to the bottom of my driveway -- the contractor had to bring it up. Don't assume anything. Ask a ton of questions. I'd want people there with the right equipment and in the right numbers to bring it into without ruining the floors, nicking the door, denting it or at worst -- dropping it. I'd find out in advance if the fridge can be tilted horizontally (some cannot). Unfortunately, this is not a Mom's fridge from Sears situation. Here is a link that might be useful: Liebherr 2060

I was prepared to pay up to $2500 a piece for the built-ins. I just never knew that built-ins cost so much more! I actually like the all stainless look :-) I guess this is a YMMV sort of thing. We donÂt have the house yet  I canÂt wait to post the layout for all of you to help me with. Right now, the fridge wall is not seen from anywhere but the kitchen  so that should not be a problem. Unless you all convince me it should be somewhere else! LOL. This is a fairly large kitchen and I just remember seeing kitchens from this site that used the full fridge and full freezer and thought what a neat idea that was. Now, I have the space and wanted to check it out. I never dreamed these things cost so much. I also never considered refrigerator drawers hmmmmÂ. ItÂs really fun thinking about all of this. I go to sleep at night thinking of this, and I lay in bed for 10 minutes every morning doing the same. I find I think clearest at those times. :-)

The OP has said they are going to recess the refrigerator into the back wall/room, so they already have plans for dealing with the increased depth of the refrigerator carcass/box. From what I can tell, it's the doors that are bothering them...but, unless they get a fully-integrated, built-in ($$$) that's designed to have the doors flush w/the surrounding cabinets, they cannot do it b/c the doors have to be free to swing open. Vermonter...If you cannot recess the refrigerator into a room behind the refrigerator as well (b/c a wall will only gain you approx 3-1/2"), then either getting 27" deep base (or tall) cabinets or pulling them out from the wall approx 2" to 3" would be needed (to match the 28" depth or so...if it's important to you that the ref carcass be flush w/the surrounding cabinets/counter (The amount to be pulled out from the wall depends on the depth of the carcass. Also, since the refrigerator is next to a counter, remember the counter will extend approx 1-1/2" beyond the cabinets so the door will need to stick out beyond the counter as well.) Regardless, the doors will still have to stick out past the surrounding cabinets & counters... CircusPeanut...thanks for the correcting me about the Liebherr doors, I thought someone here had said the doors didn't have to stick out on Liebherr counter-depths...