You can use the CounterSeal method with some standardized size stainless sinks. They have to have the template on file. It's not cheap, and you end up with a ring of Corian around your sink attached to the laminate. YOu still have seams around your sink, which is the weak point in laminate. There was a poster on here who had that fail---badly. ANd you're locked into the Corian colors which may or may not match your laminate color well. Done right, the color match looks great. Done badly, it' looks like exactly what it is, a ring of off colored plastic around your sink rim. Although there are some sources that will sell on the net, it's designed to have a trained fabricator install it. It won't be warrantied if you DIY. The Karran process uses solid surface sinks (solid acrylic) in white or bone and the only thing that keeps the assembly watertight is the thin skin of your teeth laminate thickness. You have to have a licensed installer to do this, and it's not an inexpensive choice. Not available DIY that I'm aware of, and it's not warrantied if it is. There still isn't a method to undermount a sink in laminate that is as inexpensive as the laminate itself. It will cost $300-$600 to be done, and must be done by a licensed fabricator to have a warranty. I don't trust any of the methods for longevity and I would not put them in my own house. Gibby's looks great, but I have to point out that it is a vacation house and doesn't receive everyday usage. I'd have to recommend that if one of your goals is to have an undermount sink, you shouldn't make do with questionable half measures in laminate. You should redo your budget to include the acrylic/stone surface that you love, plus the undermount sink---from a reputable fabricator.

Here's another link to a slideshow of my kitchen. The pictures aren't great in showing the beauty of the counter. The undercabinet lights really bring out the various shades in the laminate. Hope this helps in your decision. Here is a link that might be useful: Slideshow

I posted my counters and kitchen photos previously in this thread. My countertop installer highly recommended that I NOT install a typical laminate backsplash. After my counter was installed, I applied a bead of clear silicone. After my DH installed beaded-board paneling as our backsplash, I again applied a silicone seal where the paneling met the counter. We finished off the transition with a piece of waterproof quarter-round molding. I haven't had any issues with water, although I have accidentally flooded that area behind my sink a couple of times. I just wick the water away with a paper towel. Concerning the shine, my counters don't seem to have as much shine in person as they do in photos, probably because the flash of the camera bounces off the counter.

I have made a couple laminate counter/desk tops using HD laminate. I did not try to bend or curve it, however, since the procedure is as Kudzu described. I did two different front edges. On one, I banded the top with oak trim about am inch thick. I used biscuits, glue, and clamps to attach the trim to the base material. Then, I applied the laminate, used a flush trim bit in a router to remove the excess, and then a chamfer bit(45 degree angle) to ease the sharp top edge. On the other one, I added the front edge trim, but left a lip sticking up about 1/4". I set the laminate against that lip, used a flush trim bit to trim the edge flush with the top surface of the laminate, and did a bull nosed treatment to the front of the trim(Rounded). The backs had to be just butted to the back splash and the joint caulked with a quality kitchen/bath caulk.