We hung cabinets on the plaster and lathe over block walls of our last home using special masonary type screws. As far as the exposed ends, a simple scribe molding will hide the offage. Inexpensive to buy and install.

Well this probably is not the direction that you want, but your house sounds so fantastic: have you considered going in an unconventional direction and installing something like the Bulthaup B2 system of kitchen "wardrobes" -- freestanding, hypermodern, very elegant, and you can take them with you if you ever leave your antique house! If I were moving into a Belgian castle -- featured in their advertising -- of a New York loft, this is the way I would go. I also love their modular steel island design, so that you can choose different elements that you want in the island.
Lynn

Well this probably is not the direction that you want, but your house sounds so fantastic: have you considered going in an unconventional direction and installing something like the Bulthaup B2 system of kitchen 'wardrobes' -- freestanding, hypermodern, very elegant, and you can take them with you if you ever leave your antique house! If I were moving into a Belgian castle -- featured in their advertising -- of a New York loft, this is the way I would go. I also love their modular steel island design, so that you can choose different elements that you want in the island. Pricey, for sure. But the ideas are great. You can choose the wood for the cabinets.
Lynn

Here is a link that might be useful: Bulthaup B2

Framgirlinky- interesting idea but can not afford to have the architect redo the plans and all appliances are at the store waiting for delivery. Too late to make that kind of major change to the job.

Someone should have planned for the eventual mounting of cabinets before it reached the crisis point.
A french cleat system may work. The metal cleat would give many possible points of attachment into the masonry, many chances to get good anchorage.
If you weren't planning on a soffit before, installing such a structure to the ceiling would give a very strong mounting for the tops of the cabinets. The lower reaches of the cabinets could be stabilized with small-size wall anchors, because the weight would be carried by the soffit mounting (same goes for the cleat).
3/4" plywood sheets screwed and bonded with adhesive to the entire wall would render adequate fastening for the cabinets, but present challenges for the other finishes; these challenges can be met with more creativity.
Epoxy-embedded bolts could work, if they were long enough, but the bolts are large and unsightly inside the cabinets. They would only work in the mortar joints; if you hit stone while drilling, you would then need to switch over to a masonry anchor screw (tapcons), which has a different appearance all together.
For the bolts and the screws, they give one shot to get it right, and aren't reusable. The anchor epoxy is a very costly product.
In my experience with 200 year old stone houses, the plaster and mortar are as unlike their modern counterparts as is possible, so typical (as-seen-on-TV) solutions are not of much use.
Casey

Metal wall brackets are the standard fixing method for Ikea wall cabinets. In their case, there is a slight gap (this also allows for uneven walls - typical with plaster) and then an end panel, which matches the door finish, is fitted on the end of the run. End panels are made larger than the cabinet, precisely for this reason - I think your GC has the right idea.

(FWIW, plaster walls are very, very common in the UK, with so much of the housing stock dating from before WW2, so this is a common issue over there.

I think the molding at the joint of the cover panel and wall sounds like the easiest and cheapest solution. It will also look entirely normal and planned....

Went To Lowes today and talked with their Kitchen guy. He said typical scribe molding would not be large enough. I also finally understand what the GC was talking about when he said the cabinet should have a lip on the edge where veneer or beadboard can be fitted in. Thus his beadboard solution now makes sense to me. Why the KD did not just suggest a larger veneer panel is beyond me. I think I need to go with a different cabinet company.

There is a modification in Dynasty entitled: "Extend Side Back". It gives you a 2" or 6" side extension back. You can trim it to the depth you need. This is not a custom modification - I don't know the exact cost. Maybe $110 list? Not crazy. Would this work?

Kitellie-Thank you - the company that has Dynsaty is coming back later this week to look at the job and do a firm quote. I will ask him about that. We may be closer to getting this resolved than I thought.