ah - so much better. my eyeballs thank you!

it looks good to me! I think you've covered a lot. got your work triangle. doesn't look like anything in your way there.
others who know something will probably come along and fine tune things for you.
is there clearance for opening you fridge? they always point that out especially to those with french doors. i really have no idea what is needed there tho.

have you considered drawers under the peninsula rather than doors?

what about the 'chute' wall - is that even with the front of the fridge or set back? what is under it? or if full out that would be the 'laundry' path but if set back it's -?
just curious on that...can shelves be put above it?

A few serious things follow - but I love "re-frogerator" :) Does it repopulate frogs or repair clothing clasps?

Counter space! I would not raise the peninsula because its the biggest continuous piece of counter you have and its in the right place for larger scale prep work.

I kinda question the laundry chute orientation, both from the aspect of dumping dirty clothes on the counter and how the laundry reaches the laundry transportation device (basket or cart)? Is it possible to open the chute into the other room or hallway?

There isn't enough room for knees in the seating overhang you've allowed.

Try not to have one foot wide uppers - they're kinda useless. It would function better to have the cab between the range and corner be 30" and the cabinets over the dishwasher be a 36" one or a pair of 18" ones.

According to the drawing, your half-moon susan will 'intersect" with the range handles. I would choose to make the left side of range cabinet a 24" cabinet and do a full corner cabinet instead - one that was pie cut with attached doors if the cabinet company makes one or at least had doors that opened towards the right.

Thanks for the thoughts so far....keep them coming :)!

I'll try and clarify and ask more questions as they come. First, desertsteph...
you bring up a good question about french door swing clearance. I will need to look more closely at the specs for the refrigerators we are looking at (either the Liebherr FD or KA/Jenn Air CD 72"). If we do need more clearance would we put a filler piece on the right side and steal a couple inches from the cabinetry on the left? I'm not sure I understand your question on the "chute" wall. It's a chimney with a laundry chute that runs next to it. There won't be any shelving on it. I'll address bemorepanic's question here about access. I should have clarified that since it runs right by the kitchen, we'd like to put in a small access door to throw dirty dish towels or hand towels from the powder room. All of the bedrooms and full baths are upstairs (laundry in the basement). So...thankfully, no dirty clothes in my kitchen!
As far as the island goes, I have been leaning towards doing drawers instead of the doors/pullouts. Bemorepanic, how much clearance to you need for knees? Right now it's drawn in with a 30" top, 18" cabs. That leaves 1" overhang in front, and 11" for knees. We're planning on backless stools that can scoot under the overhang when not in use. I also like the idea of matching the counter height on the island. I'm leaning towards a carrara top which could double as a baking station if it was regular height. Thoughts?

Thanks for everyone's help!

Biggest problem I see is the fridge/wall orientation. I looked at the JennAir French door for our kitchen (and checked my sister's) and you won't be able to open the door on the wall side fully enough, even with a couple inches of filler. The way it is, the handle will hit the wall and not even open 90 degrees...But even if you could get that, 90 degrees is not enough to pull out inside drawers past the door shelves. I figured I'd want close to a foot between the fridge and a wall. It won't be as pretty, but you could swap the hutch and fridge.

Looks like you have a 12" deep cabinet above the fridge, and I'd recommend 24" so you can reach it and make better use of it.

I would prefer the microwave by the fridge and the space by the dishwasher for dish drawers. (It looks like you have uppers for your dishes, but I love our drawers for plates, platters, serving bowls, and it'd be a good place for Tupperware, etc.)

I think it would be good to have the peninsula at counter height (for which standard overhang requirement for seating is 15"), or for baking, I prefer 33" high counter...Which would require a little more overhang for good leg room.

Overall, a nice looking plan. Best wishes.

Thanks for your input rhome! I am thinking I need to revisit the appliance showroom and revisit what's out there for refrigerators. I looked up the specs for the Liebherr and the Jen-Air. The Liebherr lists almost 14" needed for clearance, and the Jenn-Air has 2.5". I also noticed the fully integrated Liebherr had only a couple of inches in their diagram. It might be worth it to go that route, but I'll have to see. Maybe it's not a french door? Hmm...off to the showroom.

The microwave drawer is in not in the ideal spot, but couldn't figure out where else to put it. We like the idea of a cabinet with glass doors that goes all the way down to the counter, with drawers below (dishes in the upper cabs). We want it to look like a piece of furniture or a "butler's pantry" cabinet and trying to keep it near the DW and dining room. We originally thought of doing this to the right of the dishwasher but it would be narrow at 24". Our architect liked the lines of the wall with countertop going all the way to the dining room door (and then I liked that if we moved this cabinet next to the fridge that we could do 15" deep uppers to accommodate dishes more easily with inset doors). So, that's how the mw drawer ended up where it is...still feels like a bit of a concession. I know that I desperately want it off the counters. Any other suggestions of where it might work? I've considered the island, but wanted it to look more furniture-like. Maybe it should go there afterall. Do you think this would be a better solution?

Thank you for catching the cabinet above the fridge. I've been assuming it'd be 24" but had not caught it's drawn in as a 12"!

Thanks!

Definitely check the fridges in person, and maybe there won't be as much concern as I'm fearing. But if there is, you don't want to find out too late! I agree with your architect about the appearance and your plan and location for the hutch, but if he's designing you a fridge that won't open enough for you to get the lettuce out of the produce drawer...Uh, oh!

Since I now notice that the microwave is in the doorway to the dining room, I think I'd prefer it in the peninsula. If you redesign that with drawers, it could fit in nicely. Then you could also get your 3" back in the sink cabinet if you want.

I just did the type of corner cabinet that is pictured, and the range is right at the corner. (A 3" filler away, not a cabinet away) and it actually functions fully.

The door swing actually clears the handles and it was pulled *slightly to make sure the drawer face cleared the handle. (They are full overlay) An inset door would have given plenty of clearance unpulled.

I also had the identical configuration to yours with an inset door kitchen and it functions fully as well. Of course you have to check the measurements with your cabinet manufacturer.

I chose this solution rather than the full piecut lazy susan that bmorepanic mentioned because the clients are both symmetry nuts (as I am)(One kitchen keeps symmetry on the range/focal wall--the other keeps symmetry on the sink focal wall) Also I have noticed that the piecut doors if attached to the susan tend to end up not quite perfectly in the corner, or if unattached get a little wonky because they have a double hinge.

Other than that I am in agreement that overall it is great plan but you may want to look at tweaking it the in the ways bmor and rhome have mentioned.

Thanks for your comments rhome and palimpsest. My husband reminded me we didn't put the mw drawer in the island because they are only 18" deep cabinets. I've talked to the appliance salesman and he says the Liebherr would work with a small filler piece, but we're going to go back in and look at the refrigerators ourselves (and what other options might work better).

Thanks again!