is that a walk-in pantry and a pull-out pantry? What is the pull-out pantry for?

Pull out pantry for can goods, liters of soda etc. I think I will have 7-9 inches of dead space, so stuck a can good pantry in there. Yes, that is a walk in pantry, not too big. It is 3 1/2 feet by 5 feet. The shelves are deeper than I like for can goods. Always moving cans around to see what is behind them!

Here are some ideas - I am no expert, but I do like to cook! I am also planning my kitchen so please take a look at my plans and share your thoughts.

perhaps lacking counter space,unless there is more to this.
Examine your drawers:Not enough regular sized drawers,as in a regular 3 or 4 drawer stack. At least,I would take the 21 in stack at the baking center,on the right and make that the single door cabinet that you have by the cooking zone. Use one of the 15 in cabs by the cooking zone for a 3 or 4 drawer stack for "stuff" you need close to you.I would take the center 32 in stack at the baking center and increase it to 36 or 39,and place the top spice drawer in a split configuration-put all spices in these 2 side by side drawers. Then each drawer stack flanking on L and R will shrink a bit and do"regular" stacks without the tiny drawers at the top.I would probably want a wall cabinet flanking the window above baking center...I'd raise the window height up:probably less window width there as well.[easier to wipe splash/spill/crumbs/food particles/flour off backsplash than your window glass and crevices]. A little concerned about the day to day flow/usability of this design.

Do I have this right? There is 11.5 feet of open space in the center between clean up and range run. Is there an island or something not shown?

Agree with herbflavor about thinking through the base cabinet layouts considering storage needs for things like plastic bags, foil, pot holders, pots, etc. Would also agree with cam that the sink is pretty far away from the range.

Couple of minor things to consider when you're weighing pros and cons - a little tech and a little personal opinion.

Da-n casings, huh? Stuff looks best when everything has a little breathing space. So, windows and doors need enough room to have complete casings - including the returns on a solid crown like you've shown. Then you need a little gap of wall showing of at least two inches and then start cabinets. Pick the final window widths by what fits.

It's also time to plan exactly what you're going to want at the top of the cabinets. You have a puzzle to think through where the cabinet depths vary when the cabinets have crown moldings AND you have different ceiling heights to worry about.

I'm not sure about the outlet positioning. Could be fine. The electrical gods are going to force you to have them at least every 4 feet along the prep run... Something else to think about while your considering how to light your new kitchen (might add some moldings) and where your light switches will go.

I think stuff like beadboard works best when its assigned a "use". So, a use is something like "back of open and glass door cabinets". This gives some consistency to the design. The use rules also make other decisions for you, no bead board on the hood, but add to back of cabinets flanking range. Consistency is always an issue for me because I like everything, but the more I constrain my choices to fit the rules I've set, the more I like the results.

I'd put a solid door cabinet over the ref for sure. It's too out of the way for cleaning and what's drawn is a little bit to much cutesy for the style you've chosen. The same is true of the vertical split door cabinets on either side of the hood. It could be time to re-evaluate whether you'd rather have a cottage feeling space than a victorian space. Same layout, different detailing.

Tech comment on the hood and the corbels - There is a change of depth at the ref and hood. The ref is about 24"-26" deep and the hood is 24" to 27" deep. The small glass front cabinet is 12" deep - so the corbel will sit 12-15" back from the face of the hood. In that position, the corbels will read as fake detail. Also, the gods of the building codes might be unhappy with wood bits sticking over the top of the range - I know you don't have open flames or anything, but the gods are sometimes pretty stubborn and into the letter of the code.

For me, it also brings up whether you need the two flanking uppers at all, whether you're willing to keep the contents of them orderly at all times and whether their decorative effect would actually get completely lost.

Other choices I can think of are - just cut them and leave the shelves, the hood and the ref as drawn now; - extend the hood construction (not the liner) across the entire opening (wainscot panels across the top with your shelf or could be simple plaster with wood bottom trim) with your choice of stuff on the back wall (rail system, linear pot rack, old fashioned wall shelf, or empty with a really nifty tile); keep the ref and the original hood, but also cut the shelves in the corner; or make the glass door and shelf cabinets deeper so the fronts aren't so far back.
I think I'll win todays run-on sentence contest!

I would lower the entire prep run counter and let it die into the regular height counters on the side wall cabinets.

The gods of cabinetry say a fitting filler of at least 1.5 inches is REQUIRED on the prep base cabinet run and on the range run. This is to take up the slack for small measurement and construction errors when the design is done in advance of construction.

Thinking about the narrow-pull out pantry, remember three things. They are pretty expensive for storage - expect that thing to cost around $200-$300 per inch of width. Depending on the "guts" chosen, you can lose up to 4" of usable shelf width from what you may be thinking - a 3-4" wide unit doesn't sound so exciting, does it? Last, your pantry opening is likely to have casing. I can't tell from the drawings, but if the opening is close to the pull-out, it will need to get even smaller to clear the casings.

This is just me, but instead of doing a really expensive can pullout beside the ref, I'd sweep the little bit of extra space into the pantry proper and re-noodle its layout. There might be something else that could work out like utilizing stud space.

Just as reassurance - your layout is very close to complete. This is my very favorite kind of kitchen and you have enough space to execute it well.

How about "shrinking" your open (walking) space within the U (assuming you're not going to have an island) by making your two counter-run legs 30" deep not the standard 24". You can just get regular cabs, or deepen the cabs which will give you more storage within the work zone. You'd lose an additional foot of travel distance by doing this.

There is a additional charge for counter materials, of course, but since these two runs have "furniture" (stove and sink) it might be less than you think.

Thirty-inch deep counters are da bomb!

You could make the other counter deeper, too, in order to match. Thirty-inches on a baking counter really, really improves functionality. (Think stand mixer always on counter since there's enough room for it without scrimping for other functions.)

HTH

L.

Cam349. I love your ideas! Wish I could think about incorporating them. However, I guess I should have clarified things a little better. Had it on another post and forgot to include it here. This kitchen was framed up and in use in a temporary/permanent sort of way since 2005. Yes! 2005! I have been living with makeshift counters, sink etc. for that long! The windows are in and there is no chance of them being made smaller. The sink is in, plumbing, electrical for dishwasher, lights, plug ins etc. are in and very little chance of that getting moved. That is the clean up sink. There will be a sink on an island once I get it designed. The stove, a 58" Aga is in, hooked up and since it weighs 1200 lbs, it will not be moving even an 1/8 of an inch. These are the things I have to work around. It is a long sordid story, but not worth repeating. It is what it is. I thought of a sink in the dead space corner, but you need to access plumbing underneath which negates it as a dead corner. It is also only 15 inches from the hobs on the stove. Think I need that corner space for landing area etc. Great ideas though and I thank you for your input. Take another look now and see what you think. I will take a look at your plan too! I love the way you re-did the drawing! It is so much easier for me to understand when there is a visual. Thanks!
Herbflavor: Yes, there will be an island somewhere in the future and prep sink on it. I am just trying to get the perimeter cabinets in or I may be forced to move to a one room cottage( with a completed kitchen) by the sea and by myself! (Actually that is so very tempting.) The large window with the drawers underneath is a boxed out window. Right now I have a 9 ft antique counter there that works really well as far as space, size etc. You are right, I forgot about glad wrap and wax paper type stuff. Need to reconfigure drawer sizes etc. Some of this stuff will be kept in the island drawers now that I think about it. That is where I would be covering food to go into the fridge etc.
Bmorepanic: Wow! lots of info! I see I have a lot of things to think about yet that are technical. I did think about eliminating those uppers by the stove and just having some sort of hood that had a shelf. The pantry wall is at a 45 degree angle from the fridge wall, so no conflict there. The pantry is already trimmed out. (It has been there since 2005 too!) It is amazing how much stuff it holds!. I would like to have a place for can goods that would only be "one can" deep. Am always moving cans around to see what is behind.
I was planning on all cabinets going up to the nine foot height of the side walls. I will take beadboard off of hood. Was not sure what I wanted to do with the hood area yet anyway. I am open for creative suggestions. What makes it cottage vs. say, farmhouse, which it is? I thought leaving doors off the cabinet over fridge would give that wall less of a heavy feeling. But if having doors on there would work, I can do that. It would be extra storage space for lesser used items. I would love to have one of those movable ladders and rail system, but was not sure how to do that with a hood in the center of the wall. I could slip ladder in space by fridge rather than a can good cabinet there. Is that a do-able thing? Also, cabinets will be 27" deep, or pulled out from wall to make them so with a top making working counter area 28.5 inches deep. My to counter open shelves I was thinking should only be 10 inches deep or less to hold cook books, mixing bowls or platters in a plate rack groove on the shelves. What do you think? I thought since stove wall will be deep to fit stove, the other walls should be too to balance it. The cabinets will be inset and painted. I am not sure what you mean by filler on base cabinets? Where does that go? I rambled. So much info and I am completely overwhelmed with this.
Your comments are so appreciated and I thank you for the bottom of my heart for all the help!

bmorepanic: I took uppers out per your suggestion and what do you think? I know the hood design needs some work, but I think this balances the large windows on the other two walls and looks better. I don't really need to have venting in this hood because the stove is already directly vented to the outside below the stove top. I end up with 3-4 four inches on left side of fridge that I guess is just filler. Don't know how else to balance this wall since I only can fit a 15" cabinet to right of stove. (Corner cabinet is 27" deep)

It's going to be beautiful! I too would vote for eliminating those uppers, or at least the glass fronts near the (wow, Aga) range that would have to be cleaned. In answer to your questions:

1. What drawer units do you recommend for this kitchen? 2 drawer, 3 drawer etc

I would include a full height base with two roll outs to hold foodpro, mixer, and other appliances in the baking center, perhaps where you have that center 32" drawer base. Also, are there any electrical outlets in the baking center?

2. What width of drawer is best for pots and pans, mixing bowls baking
stuff etc.?

The wider the drawer, the more useful, usually. You don't have any narrow drawers, so you're probably fine in width. Mixing bowls etc.. do just fine in three drawer bases. I would place my two drawer bases in the cooking zone, for pots, and if you are going for custom cabinetry, consider asking your cabinet maker to incorporate toe-kick space for depth.

3. Should there be open cabinetry in bases to balance open shelf
uppers?

No. It will look fine. Remember, the cabinets are all the same so you have plenty of homogeneity for balance. And open base cabs get really dirty, so if you will be the one cleaning your kitchen, let this thought go.

4. Should Hood be curved, squarish or what?

I like what you've chosen in your last drawing. You may have room for a lower, shallow, stainless shelf in there too - either on the back wall or recessed to either side of range - check Aga specs to know for sure.

5. Is there anything I should add, eliminate, change?

Looks wonderful. Congrats on realizing your long-awaited dream.

bmore mentioned having a rule for beadboard -- if you look through that covers what I was going to point out about it needing to come down to the counter on the right of the sink.

You can organize cans in a pantry, put in shallower shelves on one side, use a drawer -- so many options that won't cost as much as a narrow pullout and would give you that 7-9" to add 3-6" to each side of the range. Those 15" cabinets on either side don't give you much room and I'd much rather have more space there.

Do you need a dropped counter to work comfortably when baking? That will drop you prep space for everything else too. I'm tall, so I wanted mine raised and folks were suggesting lower counters for baking. I don't find that I need a lower space to knead or roll and am happier with the taller counter for everything else too.

While narrow cabinets are good for oils and vinegars, I wouldn't want the glass -- like the look of the large open hood if you have a spot for storing the things you need at the range or are comfortable having some bottles out beside the range.

Yes, I see what you mean with the beadboard. Since the stove wall seems to be the design snafu, I re-drew it with suggestions from this board and this is what it looks like.