Here are a couple things to remember: First: TURN THE BREAKER controlling that light OFF! I know it sounds obvious but don't forget. (I do mean the breaker and not the switch) Second: As kudzu9 mentioned, you need to make sure the device box mounting is strong enough to support the fan. Third: Get someone to help you mount the fan. It is possible to do it alone but you may hurt yourself trying to attach the fan, especially if this is your first time and your new fan is large and cumbersome. This is especially true if you have high ceilings like I do and there was an accident. And finally: If you previously did not have a fan/light combo there with independent switches on the wall, you may have to do some rewiring unless you are satisfied with controlling the light/fan with the use of the pull chains. So basically if you only have a single switch on the wall controlling that fixture, then flipping that switch will turn the fan AND light on or off. If you want the fan on without the light you'll have to flip the switch to the ON position on the wall and then use one of the pull chains on the fan to disable the light and the fan will keep working. (I hope this makes sense) (remember to read the instructions carefully and if you want a second switch added to the wall I recommend asking an electrician to help or someone knowledgeable in this area. I've done it quite a few times myself and it's not hard but you may not have enough knowledge to do that safely yet.)

First, the green wire on the switch is for grounding, and must be connected to a green or bare copper wire from the wall. If you don't have one of those, you'll either need to rewire, or purchase a switch that doesn't require a ground. White wires (neutrals) should be left alone. There is not enough information provided to tell you about how the other wires should be connected. In a typical set up, one of the black wires in one cable is your supply. The other black and the red will be in a second cable and will go to the fan/light combination. The instructions in the switch package will tell you which wire should be connected to which. There's no guarantee that the new and old switch will follow the same wire color scheme. Make sure that all of your connections are tightly made using approved wire nuts.

Sorry, this seems rather confused. What is a "blue green combo"? "It had a white wire a green wire and a ground" also can't be right; the green wire IS the ground. Green is always ground. White is always neutral (except as below). Other colors, including blue, are hot. Ground and neutral are never connected together except at the main disconnect. Hot and neutral are never connected together. Hot and ground are never connected together. The only times when white can be hot, and may be connected to black, are when wiring a switchloop, or when using cable assemblies for wiring 240 volt circuits. In these cases the white conductor should be re-marked as black, red, or other non-green, non-white color, to avoid confusion. I don't think either of these applies here. If you actually have red connected to green, you've connected hot to ground. You may be in danger of electrocuting someone - such as yourself. However, it's hard to tell whether you really have it set up that way, because I'm having a lot of trouble reading what you wrote. You use almost no punctuation and capitalization. Is that really necessary? You aren't typing on a cell phone here. Maybe I'm just a cranky old so and so, but if you can't take time to write properly and clearly, I don't see how you can expect anyone to take time to respond.

There's no reason you can't use an LED bulb in place of a regular one. The only caveat might be if you're using a dimmer, it needs to be compatible with LED bulbs. Beyond that it's just matching the base and making sure it physically fits into the fan. Any warnings on the fan about maximum wattage refers to incandescent bulbs and the heat they generate. Most LED bulbs are marketed as "equivalent" but draw considerably less power and generate less heat. So you could, for example, use a 60 watt "equivalent" LED bulb in a socket rated for 40 watts incandescent if you wanted a little more light in the room.