our service is new as of this summer, 200A, brand new panel, etc. there IS room in the box now, but i am trying to plan for the future. there are 6 or 7 open spaces right now, but this summer i plan on adding an outside cct, 2 for garage and one bedroom that is currently on with another bedroom. that leaves me with 3 open spaces, and i am adding 5 new ccts for this kitchen. right now everything in the kitchen is on the same cct, also shared with the living room with the exception of the fridge. so i think at this point i am going with my orig plan... cct 1 & 2)we will have 4 counter receptacles - 2 20A cct with 2 on each, the first on each cct GFI. cct 3) dedicated 20A fridge cct with single receptacle cct 4) 20A cct for micro (reg plugin, not over the range hardwired) with range hood also wired to it on the east wall... single receptacle for micro, range hood hardwired cct 5) 20A cct with 1 outlet on south wall, 2 on west wall and 2 flush mounted lights, one on a 3 way switch cct 6) dedicated 20A for dishwasher, hardwired

Bus_driver, I never said I had both type breakers. I was trying to figure out which type I had. Anyway, I talked to my cousin who is a ME and in turns out the load center will not have to be replaced. All the slots will accept a tandem breaker which will replace a couple of the singles. It's not like I'm adding additional loading to the box. I just had to add a dedicated circuit for the microwave and I want to add a dedicated 20 amp breaker for my home theater both of which are currently on a shared circuit. Also a minor decrease in loading was obtained by going with LED lighting throughout the kitchen. Additionally, the service (main) panel will have less loading due to changing to a gas cooktop. If the center required replacement, I had no intentions of doing this my self; and, I was only trying to find out what model box was needed and are the tandem breakers widely used. Believe it or not, the above was a blessing in disguise. My cousin who works for the local power company came by to look at the load center. He also wanted to look at the service panel; and, I'm glad he did because the insulation on one of the hot leads had been severely damaged to where it's almost was shorted to the box. He stated this needed to be addressed asap. It turns out that washing your house with a clorox mixture is very damaging to the service panel and its contents. The DW has been complaining about the lights flickering but I just kind of blew it off. I feel very fortunate that this was discovered before something bad happened. I already called an electrician. Anyway, thanks for the advice and believe me when I say that I know my limitations when it comes to electrical work but one can learn given time.

Thanks guys for the input and some insights, you are correct this is multi- dwellings apartments, the last tents had a dryer circuit installed I'm guessing like me at their expense. Because when I when to open panel there was a 10/2 wire tied to the panel, when they left they took there circuit and 240v outlet with them. I replaced all that was missing and need to wire panel, but would like to do it NOT LIVE. My other obstacle is the meter panels are not labeled as to which apartment belongs to which meter, :-)

I did replace the GFCI breaker with a normal one. I added a GFCI receptacle to the left of the kitchen sink. And I found out the master bath receptacle on the wall with the light switch, feeds the kitchen receptacle to the right of the sink. So I put a GFCI in the master bath and a GFCI label on the kitchen receptacle to the right of the sink. The oddball receptacle in the master bath down by the floor, got swapped for a GFCI. And the lower bath got a GFCI as well. So the main panel is all normal breakers now. I was busy painting the garage OSB and drywall. Finally getting around to the sub panel again. Found one on Ebay for a decent price. And it had all the breakers installed. The last guy was going to use it for a sub panel but decided to go with something else. This sub panel has screw down breakers. (see photos below) So I got 50ft 6/3 w/g NM-B cable. It is still wrapped up. The current sub panel "feed" is 12/2 romex coming out of the wall just a tad under the radon exhaust pvc.(see photo) Prior owners handy work. That exit hole is right by the out wall of the house. That 12-2 feed is routed through the double rim joist into the house lower level bedroom. The joists are perpendicular to that wall and run straight back to the utility room which has an open ceiling. The rest of the lower level is dropped ceiling tiles. The 12-2 feeder was routed diagonally across that lower room through all the 2x12 joists, across the doorway, and where the stairs are, and then 90 degrees to the right into the room with the main panel. In routing it, it was snaked through holes being used for other larger cables. I have my doubts about being able to route 6/3 through the same path. Many of those holes are going up on an angle. So I probably will wind up drilling new holes in the joists to run the 6/3. Another option presented itself today as far as the exit hole into the garage for the 6/3 feed. I removed the hose biib connection that was in the garage. See photo where drywall needs to be patched. (The hose biib was left there after the garage was put on. That wall was formerly the front of the house.) So that hose biib hole is closer to the main panel by a good 11 feet. The hole size is just under 1 inch. If I route the 6/3 cable through that spot, it would require less drilling of joists. But it would require me to run the cable to the right along the garage wall to get to the new sub panel. I have not decided if I am going to mount it just above the radon pipe in the corner, or the adjacent wall. They are both outside walls of the garage. So the question then is, if I route the 6/3 along the wall, can I enclose it in some leftover schedule 40 pvc conduit I have for protection? It would be about 51 inches off the floor and head to the right about 12 feet. Or do I need a different cable altogether since it is in a damp location? New sub panel Screw down breakers The romex with the horse shoe loop is the current sub panel feed New panel will mount either above the radon pipe exit on the right, or on the adjacent wall. Current sub panel up high to the right of door Former hose biib location. Can route 6/3 through the hole and save a lot of joist hole drilling versus the current 12-2 feed exit location.