recessed can light not working-please advise
lsst
11 years ago
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elltwo
11 years agolsst
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Advise on Lateral Recess Stenosis Please
Comments (3)She was fearful of being drugged and becoming addicted...neither happened. The morphine is "snaked" through a tube that connects from the 3"x 2½ x ½ pump directly to the facets of the spine that are the source of pain. She never even had to take an aspirin for pain after receiving the pump. I wish she had done it sooner but she was fearful and did it only when all other options had been exhausted....See MoreRecessed LED lighting help. Need to find lights that will work.
Comments (3)Thanks David for the suggestion. The light looks like it will fit, but we haven't been able to find housing that will fit our dimensions. Do you have any suggestions on this? Thanks so much on this....See MoreKitchen Can Light Plan, please advise -
Comments (5)Jon, thanks for the reply. The purpose of the lower left can in front of the door is just for general lighting. I was told by a contractor that it might be dark without it. It lights the floor and part of the bottom wall. The bottom wall there is empty, but we plan on putting art or something there. Should I put in a trim/baffle piece that can be directed to the wall? My only concern with the dark spot over the sink is that I like even lighting and was concerned that when you turn on the lights to the kitchen that there would be a noticeable dark spot that would look funny. I'll leave the plan as is and see how it feels after its done. I would like to put in under cabinet lighting but I haven't figured out how to hardwire it. Do you know of any posts that have ideas on how to do that? Would you agree that it looks "cheap" if I plug into the countertop receptacle? Also, I like the thought of LED lights, but it seems that they are not as bright as xenon or CF lights. LEDs would be more decorative and not as functional. I'm sure they make LEDs that are as bright as xenon, but I assume they are very expensive. The LEDs I bought as a sample are $16 for a 1 foot section; I was planning on using them with a 6 inch space between them. Thanks again!...See MorePatching Jatoba - looks terrible. Shoddy work? Please advise!
Comments (11)Correct me if I'm wrong but what your have here appears to be a patch job. There's two issues I see that should have been addressed before commencing. 1) It's not reasonable to expect brand new Jatoba to look like aged Jatoba. One can stain the new boards but it's still going to look different. Staining the new boards will make them darker but it will make them more uniform and the grain may look different. 2) It's not reasonable to expect a patch job to not look like a patch job. That said, the patch job would have looked a lot better had the ends been done more carefully. I'm not sure whether they sanded over on to the old boards or whether the stain soaked into the finish causing the issue. Even if the ends had been done better you'd still have a patch job. If I were asked to do what your floor man has been asked to do, first I would issue a strong warning about the pitfalls and advise you to refinish the entire floor. I would price both options. That way, when I was asked to do an almost impossible task, you wouldn't have unrealistic expectations. At this point you need to contract a floor finisher to refinish the entire floor. After the the first coat of clear is applied, I would tape off the new boards and apply a coat of tinted finish. If it's too uniform at that point, I could tape off a few boards and apply tinted finish to add some variety, then apply the final two coats. I've used this strategy countless times on Oak, Jatoba and old Pine that's prevalent here, but even then it could still be evident that you've patched the floor. As to the wood grade, it's much harder to get Jatoba than it was before the recession. My regular go-to supplier in Orlando used to stock 2-1/4", 3", 4" and 5". Not they stock only 5". Another supplier on Miami stocks different widths but it's a lower grade. To my knowledge Jatoba is unlike Oak where manufacturers have agreed on what constitutes a specific grade of wood so buyers are somewhat at the mercy of the person saying it's clear, select, etc. I think your floor can be salvaged but will require refinishing. Is there a doorway near the patched area where the refinishing could stop, preferably at a doorway where the floor boards run parallel to the doorway? That would be a good stopping point....See MoreDavid
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