Patching Jatoba - looks terrible. Shoddy work? Please advise!
ainelane
7 years ago
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ainelane
7 years agoRelated Discussions
brown patch? plythim blight? webworms? with pics
Comments (45)"But wait... the EPA site doesn't say whether or not cornmeal can be put on my lawn" Yes they do. Corn meal is listed as an inert ingredient by the EPA. What they don't say is that corn meal can be used to treat lawn disease. They specifically say chlorothalonil shouldn't be used for home lawns because it poses a danger. It was previously labeled for home lawn use but now they banned it in home lawns. So someone can't sell you a bag of corn meal and tell you it's a fungicide and a licensed lawn care company can't apply it as a fungicide treatment (or fertilizer in most states) but it has not been labeled as being harmful. There's a big difference between a toxic, possible carcinogen that has been banned by the EPA and a substance that is safe to eat, is allowed to be used with other ingredients and just hasn't been registered as a pesticide....See MoreWhite-belt! Please help ID and advice on withering
Comments (8)My stapeliads don't take a lot of water. Absolutely almost none during the winter, about once a month, BUT My stapelieds live in a colder place than Australia during the winter. They are in a an unheated structure that stays above freezing. I find over watering is the bugger. The y will root from the tops very easily. I have had rot at the roots during spring because I started watering too soon and I allowed them to get a tad to cold in the winter. They reroot themselves once the temps have warmed up considerably. This winter I threw towels over them when it got to 40F ( 5C). That period of demise seems to have been less. The most sensitive of my stapeliads was Huernia zebrina, But it will reroot with ease.. During HOT Texas summer , I water once a week. That said, I need to go out and water . I missed my sunday watering because I was working. Below is Marten Heigand's habitat photos. It does look like semi arid zones with summer rainfall. Some look like texas brush country, but I know it is different. This is a great site to wander around. Here is a link that might be useful: Marten Heigand's Habbitat photos...See MoreFurnace quit working during home inspection
Comments (32)"If you know what the exact issue your HI found is then post it here. Many of us have libraries of NEC editions going back many revisions, and other just remember when the changes occurred. Someone can tell you when the NEC changed, and if the actual 'finding' is anything to be concerned about." Brickeyee, this is what the HI put on the inspection report: ELECTRICAL: Get second opinion from electrician or check internet sites for older STAB-LOK Federal Pacific breaker panels. PANEL OR PANELS double lugging / melted insulation / missing plugs / sloppy wiring / rusted or rusting / did not open due to obstruction panel painted or sealed shut / should label all circuits /over fused or should decrees fuse or breaker size FORMCHECKBOX neutral and ground bonded in sub panel GROUNDING consider adding ground rod for additional safety and for double grounding or improving the grounding system FORMCHECKBOX ground missing at water meter or pressure reducer / loose ground wire / ground wire to small Today's standards suggest double ground to the main panel. The first ground wire should be connected to the metallic cold water pipe with a ground jumper or bond cable at the water meter The second ground wire should go to a ground rod imbedded in soil. Have electrician verify and certify all grounding conductors. Electrical not determined or evaluated in: walls, drop ceilings, closed panels, concrete, soil, behind outlet or switch plates. OUTLETS AND SWITCHES consider installing GFCI'S / open grounds / reverse polarity's / loose / painted / missing cover OTHER VISUAL CONDITIONS improper splicing / wire not in conduit or through joists / some sloppy installation dangerous or exposed wire / some lights out or not working light bulbs or damaged / some abandoned or unknown / some not energized / extension cords used / loose conduit / dangling or exposed wires / sloppy above drop ceiling Triple or double lugging exists in panels Undersized wire used for double/triple lugging" I googled "STAB-LOK Federal Pacific breaker panels" and was NOT glad to read the following: FIRES WAITING TO HAPPEN - Federal Pacific Electric Panels: Fires Waiting to Happen, Debate Waiting to Be Ended What is the FPE Stab-Lok Failure Rate and How Much Worse Is It Than Other Equipment? FPE Stab-Lok or Federal Pacific Electric Stab-lok circuit breakers can fail to trip at an alarming rate. In the original testing, at a modest overload (135% of rating) switches that had never been touched (never mechanically switched) were energized on both poles. These failed 25% of the time, followed by a lockup that meant the switch would never trip in the future at any overload. Once these switches had been flipped on and off (mechanically energized), failures increased to 36%! Worse, when individual poles on these switches were energized under the same conditions, 51% of the "virgin" switches failed, and for switches that had been mechanically energized, a whopping 65% of them failed!" A link that might be useful: inspectapedia.com/fpe/fpe.htm...See MoreSA lawn in Texas... looking for revival ideas and help
Comments (11)[set soapbox mode on] Okay now I'm taking it personally. You can check all the sources you want, but I can assure you it becomes baffling almost immediately, especially if you spend much time reading peer reviewed university journal articles. What we have here in this and other forums is hundreds if not thousands of peers reviewing what we do and reviewing it in much less baffling terms. The text that I copy and paste is my own, so I don't need to site sources. When I came to this forum I was doing almost everything wrong. I was convinced I was fairly correct because I attended a land grant university and took classes covering this stuff. After a few heated forum battles I tried some of the things these illiterates were writing. Lo and behold they worked for me. After that I looked back at other suggestions my "opponents" were making. Some seemed counterintuitive, so I looked into the science soil biology. From that and what I had learned of human physiology in grad school, I created the Organic Lawn Care FAQ, available on the GW Organic Gardening FAQ section. I posted that FAQ on several sites. Those sites with download counters registered well over 75,000 downloads each. Nobody in the forums seemed to be arguing against my work, so I guess you could call that peer reviewed. My lawn owner peers - perhaps not your ivory tower peers. As a result of that document I was asked to moderate three new organic lawn care forums at other e-locations. Again I am calling this a reasonable review of the concepts I set forth. I consider the Organic Lawn Care FAQ the first easy to read concept document on organics since J.I Rodale popularized it in the 1950s. His compost approach was nice until we got the technology to study DNA in the soil. With testing done in the 90s and 2000s we learned that compost wasn't a be-all, end-all magic bullet. Compost is little more than a collection of microbes and microbe carcasses. It works great as a mulch. But the benefit to organics comes from feeding real food to the soil microbes. Then you'll have to read Dr. Elaine Ingham's Soil Biology Primer to learn how that food gets processed into plant food. While that document is not trivial reading, it is readable to us unwashed. What I try to provide is best practices for low hassle lawn care. These practices have been reviewed in other lawn forums and tuned up over the years. Yes there are ways to make it harder and more expensive, but I don't want to work that hard myself. I even copy and paste some of the things I have written, because that has a lower hassle factor than recreating it again and again. Every now and then something new happens in home owner lawn care. Two examples that come to mind are leveling and sprigging. Several years ago Dave Proud brought us an illustrated and detailed account of how he leveled his bermuda grass lawn. Before that we never discussed leveling to get rid of a bumpy surface. It was an epiphany. The lights went on and we dug into that. I got him to join another forum for lawn nuts, and the process has been used a lot. That general topic fed into the question of why lawns get bumpy. Rototilling was discussed among homeowners and professionals. Rototilling seems to be the root cause, or at least one root cause. Another fairly recent homeowner discovers is sprigging a few dollars worth of very expensive bermuda stolons onto bare soil. This process came to us from R. Simon in Australia. It seems like he developed the process and made it work. On this topic I do not know if anyone else has sprigged successfully. I spend more time in this forum where there are more beginners than I do in the other forum, so they could be sprigging all the time over there. My point is that if and when someone has a better idea about lawn care, I'm going to bring it to the forums and discuss it. Generally those ideas do not come from peer reviewed journals out of the universities. But if, for example, you want peer reviewed evidence that shampoo will soften your soil, search the journals for "Cascade Plus, golf course, core aeration." Without the quotes of course. You'll find plenty of articles on the use of a concentrated surfactant called Cascade Plus being used to replace core aeration on golf courses. Shampoo is also a concentrated surfactant. I did not invent the use of shampoo, but when I tried it, and it worked like magic for me, I was all over it. Please go ahead and look at all the sources you want. Come back with your ideas and we can talk about them. I have reasons for not top dressing, not core aerating, not rototilling, and all the other oddball stuff I suggest. You don't have to believe them or agree. You are free to present your thoughts, but what irks me is when people refuse to spend $0.50 on shampoo but they will spend $75 to rent a back breaking machine that will not work nearly as well. ...all because they read a peer reviewed journal about core aerating. [set soapbox off]...See MoreUser
7 years agoainelane
7 years agogregmills_gw
7 years agoglennsfc
7 years agoUser
7 years ago
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