Sure, Build.com and other sites sell them. Found one in about two minutes. Here But they are not going to work for a sloped ceiling. No one probably makes one that swivels like you would need for that application. Heat in a radiant form, as in a light bulb heater, travels in a straight line and you will be heating whatever surface the ceiling pitch has the bulb pointing at. You need to build out a triangular box to put the fixture in. You can drywall it so that it is not as obvious as mine was. It is not a great picture, but in the upper left side of the photo you can see the maple triangular box that gives my light fixture a level surface to hang on.

I found this on https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/113602 Removing Linoleum Adhesive From FloorsProcedure code:965001SSource:Ohj - Shirley Maxwell & James C. Massey, 9/30/92Division:FinishesSection:Resilient FlooringLast Modified:08/02/2016 REMOVING LINOLEUM ADHESIVE FROM FLOORS PART 1---GENERAL 1.01 SUMMARY This procedure includes guidance on removing the mastic adhesive left behind when linoleum flooring has been removed. Linoleum flooring was very popular from 1863 to 1974. It was used historically as an original floor treatment in some GSA buildings. Linoleum's chief ingredient was linseed oil, pressed from flax seed, which became a tough, elastic material when exposed to air. The process essentially consisted of mixing linseed oil and gum with ground cork or wood flour, and pressing it onto burlap or canvas. It was then glued down to concrete or wood floors using a mastic cement. See "General Project Guidelines" for general project guidelines to be used along with this procedureThese guidelines cover the following sections: Historic Structures Precautions Submittals Quality Assurance Delivery, Storage and Handling Project/Site Conditions Sequencing and Scheduling General Protection (Surface and Surrounding) These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing this procedure and should be followed along with recommendations from the Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO). PART 2---PRODUCTS 2.01 MATERIALS Clean, potable water Vinegar Citrus degreasing solvent such as "Limo Sol", or approved equal. Dry ice Chemical solvent such as isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, xylol, lacquer thinner, or paint stripper. 2.02 EQUIPMENT Heat lamp or hot-air gun Putty knife or scraper PART 3---EXECUTION 3.01 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION NOTE: A waterproof glue is usually applied at the edges and seams of the linoleum; the center of the felt layers is usually attached with a water soluble paste. Soak the mastic area in hot water for 20-60 minutes or until soft.\ If this is not effective, try adding vinegar or high-strength citrus degreasing solvent to the water and then soak for 20-60 minutes until soft. If mastic still will not soften, try applying heat to the surface using a lamp or hot-air gun. -OR- Try freezing the mastic with dry ice to break the bond with the substrate. If no other methods are effective in softening the mastic, test a chemical solvent on the area. NOTE: Be sure to test in an inconspicuous area to determine appropriate chemicals and strengths before proceeding with cleaning. Scrape away the softened mastic using a putty knife or garden edger. END OF SECTION interesting................

Yep, there it is. Good find, and it looks like Lindac92 pretty much nailed the date, too. And it's true, replacement shades, regardless of period, tend to be expensive... Those straps you spoke of... I suspect their purpose is merely to hold the socket body, which is probably a non-conductive plastic of some sort, on that white platform. I doubt very much that the metal straps have any part in conducting electrical current. That's what insulated wires are for. Could they act as a ground? Technically yes, but only to electrically bind all the metal pieces of the lamp together so that in the event there was a short circuit, probably caused by an insulation failure, the rogue current would be directed to the ground wire, which is always Green and which leads directly to the round pin of a three wire plug. I'm betting the lamp doesn't have a three-prong plug, or a three-wire cord. Regardless, if you're worried about it, get it checked out by someone who knows. Could be an electrician, but if you have a lamp repair shop anywhere nearby, take it there, have them address your electrical concerns and ask them to replace that missing screw (or whatever) while you're at it so that the bulb will be stable when you have it all together again, ready to use.

You should definitely hire a local audio video professional vs an electrician. The AV pro will be more knowledgable of current and future technology. You should consider wiring rooms for speakers in ceiling. You should contact a local audio video pro and talk to them about Sonos or Heos or Autonomics. They are all similar. The speakers will be in the ceiling, the amplifier will be wired to a closet or the basement. You will still control the system wirelessly (via a phone or tablet). Also, wire a cat 6 to one closet location on each floor - this will allow for wifi repeaters (access point with POE). Cameras - wire Cat 6 to each location so you can use IP cameras (far superior quality). Consider running a fiber optic cable to each main TV location and to the D-Mark or MPOE (where the wires enter the home) - also run a cat 6 and Coax. With 4K-60 and 8K coming - fiber will be needed to handle the bandwidth. In a year or two you will be happy you did this. In addition to the fiber, also run 2 cat 6 to each TV location and run back the "home run" location (closet or basement) - Now you can keep all the cable boxes and video sources in 1 central location and gives you internet at each TV - make sure a cable jack and network location is also at the home run location. Don't forget speakers, TV and wifi outside - you may not do it now, but much easier to wire now