I'm very sorry I did not answer the questions from the last few years... I've been out of reno mode for a while :) It's probably too late, but here are the replies: @walkin_yesindeed - the vanity finish has held up just fine. However, it's not the original paint. We sanded and re-painted with new Ben Moore bathroom paint. No issues with dampness (we do run the fan for every shower, though.) @kirkhall - I have NOT been happy with the touted un-stainable-ness of the epoxy grout on the floor. I mean, it's better than regular grout, but it didn't stay white no matter how much I cleaned it. It looks fine, since the tile is multi-toned, but it's definitely not still white. The shower grout, however, has held up extremely well. @SparklingWater - I don't recall the demo being terribly difficult, but that may be because I knew what to expect from other parts of the house. It was tile over a dense cement. @MrsD - I think the grout color is standard white. @MayaEoff - Our tub is the standard 30" size.

"""""Unless you do the test with the actual wiring and fault it repeatedly to adjust everything it is NOT going to work""""" """"This is a very application dependent item, not anything a lab can do for you. """" It�s like beating a dead horse.... This will be the last time I am going to try to explain this to you because I am not getting it through to you. I guess square D, engineering firms and hospitals do this kind of thing for fun and like to spend 7, 10 or 20K on things that don't work. You are only talking in opinion. Please provide your comments with some articles that a selective coordination study is bogus from a reputable source? You say you have seen all these issues but provide not details as to the specs or conditions it was under. It�s almost an insult and as if you�re saying the engineer who performs these studies is performing a job that serves no purpose. What else are you stating that can't be duplicated at a test site???? You can get the resistance of the wire, the temp, weather conditions, motor torques, load, time ran, splice types, terminations, age etc. During the study the engineer should get plans that show your entire setup. If there is something odd then they will review that and take it further into consideration. If someone doesn't do a spice correctly that is an incorrect installation, but if you take into account the available AIC at the site and spec your breaker correctly it will open without damage. The amount of time and calcs is why it cost thousands and thousands of dollars. Let�s take one common sense note, if it�s BS then why does the code require it in certain instances? Once again the study will take into effect the amount of available current and if done correctly will match the equipment to this. You say that a lab can't duplicate the field conditions???. Some labs test some of their gear at 200% in some instances. Take a look at MGE gear and see what they do upon testing/commissioning. So if you are in the field and a splice fails or a phase to phase short and the breaker blows off the wall or does something off normal then you better start looking at who designed it or setup the settings, because in MOST (not all) cases it wasn't correctly installed to handle the fault. Please before you go any further please read the link I added. It is an example of a study and it is from cooper/bussman. Look at page 1 number two on "SHORT CIRCUIT STUDY" I do hope you understand this better and that this helps clear things up for you. """"""Ever seen conductors move under fault current? You should see power lines jumps. """"" I have a lot of experience in high voltage and yes the air can become a conductor. Where are you going with this? Here is a link that might be useful: READ THIS LINK! Example of a study and what it includes

Randy, Thank you, that's some good feedback you've offered. You are permitted to run up to 18 #12 wires in 3/4" conduit. 29 are permitted in 1" conduit. If there are bends, I'd go with the 1", though by using a couple common neutral circuits you can consolidate down to 11 wires. (You are permitted up to 4 quarter bends, or the equivalent, in any one run of conduit.) But the number of conductors allowed by conduit size speaks nothing about the derating issue. Am I correct about this? . . I'd also use EMT or rigid conduit for better appearance and durability. Nods. EMT may well be the better choice if I go with a conduit solution. Thanks for that. Will consider. . . Have you considered running #6 wires from the main panel to a sub panel in the kitchen/bath area? Yes, that was actually the first option I threw out. If I could go the subpanel route, I'd probably use #6-2 NM (plus ground) and not use conduit. The studs in this building are huge (actual dimension 2" x 6" rough-sawn Doug Fir) and Romex could be run through the studs about 10' above the floor level. (But not 5 independent circuits, for aesthetic reasons, by direction of the owner!) This is my sister's property (btw, her name is Randy!). She's held a California GC license for years and made her living building houses on hillside lots in the SF bay area, so her real specialty is engineered foundations in earthquake country and she admits that electrical stuff is not her strong suit. (She's pretty much just always subbed it, although she has more than her share of experiences arguing with inspectors at punchlist time.) Anyway, this building is in a remote rural area in Mendocino County that has some kind of quicky permit/inspection program for non-dwelling units meeting certain characteristics, one of which is single-panel electric (no subpanels). Apparently, when a building conforms to all the requirements of this program, the process is cheap, quick and usually hassle-free, or so I've been told. It consists of one inspection done at or near the end of construction. (Among other things, I was interested to learn that no rough-in inspection is required, and the inside walls can even be drywalled over wiring at the time of inspection!) Sooo...the reason for not using a subpanel may, in this case, be more a tactical or political decision on the part of the owner, if you catch my drift. The downside of the deal is that she's found the AHJ (a "generalist", apparently) to be "not helpful" in getting advice before work is performed. I have to take her word on that, groan. - Tom

There are certainly a few things wrong. My intuition is that somebody changed out the panel and hooked up the wiring in a temporary manner, assuming they will be back to run new wires as something like the kitchen gets remodeled. It seems quite common for remodelers to get an electrician in to replace a panel while promising them the rest of the work, and then never calling them back. This is usually in order to get the best price and get the electrician out in the fewest hours possible, thinking they will be back to fix the temporary stuff at the appropriate time. This leaves unfinished work that nobody feels responsible to fix or don't know better. I have heard too many stories of this when being called to fix these messes. It seems that the "handyman" is always trying to keep as much money from the job as possible. The way they do that is to include the electrician's bid in with theirs, have the electrician make an appearance for the panel and temporary splices, and then do the rest of the work themselves while cutting corners and handing the owner a bill that includes the price for what a qualified electrician would have charged. This is common enough that I won't accept a remodel job unless I am paid in full up front, which keeps someone from thinking they can save money by finishing it themselves.