pnbrown, our observations and our belief tell us that all that happens about this planet which is home is done by God's hand, we need not any men who can feed us false doctrine on this matter. we don't need any of those sciences, for me it matters not that gravity is what is identified as holding us onto the planet so we down here don't drop off, it is God's work at work. yes the sciences are at the very least fake and possibly worse. like one person said how can we trust these climate change scientists to be making the right theory when we can little trust the medical sciences for our health. for us God delivers. God bless my friend len

pal - Is that a Louis Kahn house? It would be great in a vintage brutalist, Kahn-esque, concrete, glass and raw wood structure. It would also work well in a current Dwell-esque structure. But whether it would work well in YOUR home with YOUR aesthetic and sensibilities is a separate question. Don't be so tied to 1963 as a time period -- as a snapshot of what's appropriate. Think instead of what 1963 represented. Man-made finishes (formica and other laminates) were popular for ease of installing, ease of care, and reasonable price. The equivalent of that in 2013 might be quartz. But back to the original question of whether the finishes should match across the bathrooms in a home. I agree with the others who have said that it makes sense for the bathrooms to work with the rooms they serve. A master bath might get heightened finishes, or more use of a particular splurge finish (special tile), while the kids'/hall bath would get just a touch of it, or none at al. A powder room can be a bit more glam, or custom, as it's the only one most visitors will ever use. Our bathrooms are really a continuation of one large "compartment bath" that has two separate half baths that open onto a central room with the tub/shower and the laundry area. So it's a no-brainer for us to essentially match them if and when we ever get around to renovating them. I'll use the same floor and wall tiles, cabinetry, fixtures, etc. But I might tweak something in each one just for fun -- probably a shift of a feature strip of tile, or something along those lines.

You are basicly saying "teach me how to snake a sewer line". Do you realize plumbers teach assistants by showing them? Do you realize pros often need to walk all the way around a house to figure out how to approach clearing a drain? Do you realize that machines large enough for 4" lines are much too heavy for average men to carry up a ladder onto a roof? Do you realize large sewer augers are dangerous? More than a few got broken arms and/or living daylights slaped out of them when a power snake hung and threw a loop in snake between machine and cleanout (which they routinely do). There are things in life (like driving cars) that are better left to the experienced individuals until proper training is undertaken. If you still feel you must push forward,rent a machine with 3/4tr cable and put it down toilet where wax was replaced (yes I know,but that's another place where experience pays). Have a helper run water while you operate snake. If water starts rising up toilet line ask helper to slow down or stop before flooding floor. When helper is unable to flood toilet line you have cleared the line.

THANK you both so much! I went back to read what exactly my architect said because I want to make sure I passed the problem he is having right for you guys and here is it: "In the process of preparing the permit drawings I have hit a snag. The planning we have done has been based on using the existing kitchen drain. The initial site visit has me believing that drain to be a 2" pipe. This is one of the things I need to verify during my final check site visit. All the piping would work with a 2" drain - but - for an automatic clothes washer the drain requirement goes up to 3" when the standpipe (pipe the washer drains into) hits the vertical sewer. I do not expect to find the pipe that I am assuming to be 2" is 3". ... Assuming the pipe is 2" the option to not doing potentially major plumbing work to get a 3" drain is to put a small laundry sink next to the washer for it to dump into." And here is section 802.4 of the code: Given that extra info, do you think I am still ready to go as it is or should I present my architect with my contractor plan to get around the issue and not have a laundry sink by the washer/dryer? Thanks again!!!