MB Bathtub drains slowly and at same time toilets don't flush properly
srcgrace
8 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (10)
srcgrace
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Master bath small shower + tub or no tub?
Comments (27)Well, phooey. I taped it out in the bathroom with blue tape last night and it looked like it would fit, but with too many nos, I'm back to the drawing board. Interesting thought, Vix. Right now we don't actually have a toilet room, so much as a separate toilet "area" (there's no door, and the closet takes up too much room to add a door), but it's on my agenda to create one. In our house, it's very necessary. I generally use that bathroom to try to FIND privacy, only to have 3 people (and sometimes the dog) follow me into the bathroom. I'm looking forward to having a door that locks and a fan so that I don't have two little people handing me the TP and asking whether I'm doing number 1 or 2 (oh, and the 1 year old likes to flush while I'm ON the pot; so I've got my own special cold water washlet), while DH decides that he absolutely has to shave and brush his teeth at that exact moment. Now if I take a hike to the guest bath on the other side of the house, all three just follow me AGAIN. Sometimes when I have insisted on locking the door in the guest bath (no way to do that with our LOUVERED -- why??? -- pocket door in the master), my one year old plopped down prostrate outside the door and cried until I open the door. For my W/C, I want to put in a LOUD fan; no whisper quiet for me. Maybe I'll even add a radio. :) The way I'm seeing it, I can either get rid of the long vanity altogether and live with a fairly small vanity, plus a tub and shower, I can skip the tub and live with the kids' bathroom on the third level as the only room with a tub, or we can bump out that weird corner jog, which would give us an additional 49'' X 27'' space -- enough to fit a 5X3 tub, 5X3 shower and keep the two vanities. But that sounds very expensive and will require carefully removing and replacing the siding to match the existing. DH's response to all this was "why do we need a tub?"...See MoreGrading your floor near the tub. Good Idea? I think so
Comments (8)In Australia and many places in Europe this second floor drain is a most and required by their countries "Plumbing Code". I think these second drains should always be used with a channel drain / curbless shower installation. I reviewed this subject with my local plumbing inspector and he informed me that a plumbing system designed and built properly to code does not need the second drain to pass inspection. "But is it a good idea?" I think so. David's concealed drain the most applying concept to me so far! - buried under the vanities kick or deep behind a free standing or floating piece (a second channel drain up tight to the baseboard?). Some of the options for designer drains available through California Faucets are amazing - all the top bathroom shops carry them. This second drain and fail safe would offer up better protection if a clog caused by blocked hair, wash cloth, foot, toys ("Little People & their stuff") went unnoticed in the Peak of Play Time. There are issues with priming this second drain line and many was of doing just that - have a ticketed plumber help you with the lay out to be approved by city hall. My kids bathroom floor is heated and I slopped this floor a hair so dripping water would not sit up against the tub base and baseboards (Wood). If a drip or slow leak happen I hope this will bring it out to the center of the room for us to notice and repair. I designed my daughters vanity piece to have 6 drawers, 2 sinks and an open back to work on and service the plumbing connections. In my en-suite I will rip up the floor and follow David's advice on a concealed back up drain. This second drain will cause my curbless shower to have compound angles so I'm thinking we should look at a 4"x4" tile or smaller for the floor. More work.... Safer.... Nice.... Perfect....See MoreExterior uninsulated bathroom wall and tub drain question:
Comments (6)Bill, thanks for the reply.. Attached is a photo of the exterior wall. The tub lip will be near the top edge of the lower piece of blue insulation. With the window, the additional furring around it, and the cross furring there is not that much rigid insulation. The plywood on the exterior wall was to take the place of furring strips to move the durarock out to fully overhang the tub. This would also give me more to screw the durarock to. As a byproduct, I hoped to gain a bit more insulation. Is the concern more the plywood (as opposed to furring strips which would allow more air movement), or is it the rigid insulation trapping moisture, or the combination? Would plywood be ok if there was no rigid insulation? From other posts, it was recommended that if using fiberglass with kraft facing, to cut the kraft paper face every foot. This would allow moisture to escape. Since the rigid insulation is not wider than a foot I thought it would allow sufficient moisture migration. As an alternative, I could just peel 1 inch of unfaced fiberglass insulation and place it on the exterior wall instead of the rigid insulation. I did this in the paneled basement that has a similar exterior wall (and it helped). Or if the concern is more the plywood, I could put furring strips in. Yes the existing furring strips were not very level. I replaced 2 (both sides of window), and added another just above the tub lip (for screws). Then with the plywood, shims and screws planned to make the surface more level for the durarock. From your post, I interpret that you may also be suggesting durarock directly on the existing furring strips (with vapor barrier). Thus no plywood or additional furring strips to move the durarock out farther and fully over the tub lip. Floating the wall might be easier, but I have my experience with thinset and tile so hoped to stick with that. For the 1.5 2 inches on the ends, I was going to again use plywood to furr the wall out. I planned to split the difference and make up some of the gap on each end. However, based on your suggestion I now plan to sister the 2x4 on the back wall and put most of the 1.5-2 inches there. Attached is a photo of the floor for completeness. I added another joist (2nd out from wall) between a steel I-beam and a wall that sits on a concrete floor below. The new joist was cross braced to the existing joist along the exterior wall. It was placed to sit under the left set of feet on the tub. The position of the tub feet are marked with white paper in the photo. I then used joist hangers to support the joist to be cut (3rd out from wall). I placed the cross support to sit almost under the right front tub foot. I then cross braced to support the tub left back foot. So all the tub feet will sit directly over a structural member. The tub feet are referenced from someone sitting in the tub facing the drain....See MoreToilet not flushing properly in new home
Comments (10)AK 217, it was I having a similar problem recently, do a search on my name or "toilet not flushing properly" and you should find it. From what I've learned it could well be the toilet design, but being new doesn't mean there isn't a blockage, on the contrary there may be something stuck in there from the installation. I have yet to remove mine from the base to check the passages but that's probably what I'll have to do unless I'm lucky with a snake. Mine flushes totally normally if it's just water or a small amount of solids which seems odd since it blocks so easily with more solids....so others and I concluded it's not the drain itself probably, since water goes fine. I'm convinced that mine's blocked with something thin that's really wedged in there, a pen or a lollipop stick or something - something that provides little or no resistance to water and small solids. After spending 30+ years in NZ and Australia, where the diameter of the toilet outlet and all the bends etc in any toilet are 100mm/4" (and the bends are nowhere near as tight either) I've probably encountered about three, maybe four toilet blockages.....now I'm back in Canada, it seems to happen all the time, and I can see why. Dual flush is a good idea, but not with these restrictive toilets.....in fact, we'd all be better if the cistern was still overhead, like in the old days. THAT was a flush, and you could get much greater force with much less water....See Moresrcgrace
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agosrcgrace
8 years agosrcgrace
8 years agoklem1
8 years ago
Related Stories
BATHROOM DESIGNHow to Choose the Right Toilet
Style, seat height, flushing options, color choice and more will help you shop for the right toilet for you
Full StoryMOST POPULARA First-Time Buyer’s Guide to Home Maintenance
Take care of these tasks to avoid major home hassles, inefficiencies or unsightliness down the road
Full StoryHOME TECHMeet the New Super Toilets
With features you never knew you needed, these toilets may make it hard to go back to standard commodes
Full StoryVINTAGE STYLEVintage Style: High-Tank Toilets
Homeowners are adding the feeling of yesteryear in today’s bathrooms
Full StoryMOST POPULAROrganizing? Don’t Forget the Essential First Step
Simplify the process of getting your home in order by taking it one step at a time. Here’s how to get on the right path
Full StoryHOUSEKEEPINGIt’s Time to Clean Your Gutters — Here’s How
Follow these steps to care for your gutters so they can continue to protect your house
Full StoryBATHROOM DESIGNBath Remodeling: So, Where to Put the Toilet?
There's a lot to consider: paneling, baseboards, shower door. Before you install the toilet, get situated with these tips
Full StoryBATHROOM DESIGNHow to Install a Toilet in an Hour
Putting a new commode in a bathroom or powder room yourself saves plumber fees, and it's less scary than you might expect
Full StoryBATHROOM DESIGNWhy You Might Want to Put Your Tub in the Shower
Save space, cleanup time and maybe even a little money with a shower-bathtub combo. These examples show how to do it right
Full StoryBATHROOM DESIGNSee the Clever Tricks That Opened Up This Master Bathroom
A recessed toilet paper holder and cabinets, diagonal large-format tiles, frameless glass and more helped maximize every inch of the space
Full Story
randy427