We've been in for 4 1/2 months now and overall are very happy with how our new home turned out. Things I love: Wood floors - Ours are 4" white oak, site finished in a medium stain color, satin finish(not shiny). Dover white laquer painted woodwork, mouldings, and cabinetry. We have stained cabinets in a couple of bathrooms, and I'm glad I didn't go stained in the kitchen and rest of the house. The stained acts like a dust magnet and washes out the paint color on the walls. But most of all, white wood against painted walls and hardwood floors just makes me happy.:-) Love my kitchen. Thank you kitchen forum! Definitely pay a visit over there if you're just getting started. -It turned out beautiful(white custom cabs, arched hood, wood floors) -Lots of well placed lighting all on dimmers -Functional, large layout with specific work zones -Danze faucets and pot filler -Silgranit sinks(love the big single basin and the round prep!) -Bosch ovens -Dacor 36" gas cooktop -Kitchenaid DW and Fridge -Giallo Ornamental granite -Microwave built into the island -Trash pullout -Tons of deep drawers instead of cabinet doors -Step in pantry Smart Strand carpet - feels and looks great - LOVE IT!!! Love our huge paved, curvy driveway and walkways. Lots of room for the kids to ride bikes, scooters, and play basketball. Huge covered porches front and back Exercise room off of master for treadmill and weights Walk in attic access from upstairs Huge bonus room upstairs Big laundry room with 2 washer and 2 dryer hookups, quartz folding countertop, deep stainless sink, and plenty of storage. Love that the dryers vent right outside, not up through walls and then to the roof like our last house. Makes cleaning the duct a huge pain and cuts down on effiency. Sound system with speakers throughout and on back porch Paint colors - Tobacco Road(main), Dover White(woodwork) Lots of lighting throughout almost all on dimmers Schlage door hardware and deadbolts Love being out in the country on a little land with tons of trees and a pond. Peaceful and lots of room for the kids to play and explore. Things I'd do differently - Insulate wall where upstairs bath plumbing runs downstairs for sound reduction. Put in sprinkler system - On the list to do next spring Wish we would've upgraded to satin or eggshell paint in the bonus and kids rooms. Went with flat to save money figuring we could always repaint later.

Absolutely ditto on what John said. "They can be bright task lighting or dim mood lighting." When we're done with dinner in the kitchen we turn the undercabinet lights way down for a backlight if we watch TV in the adjacent family room. It's still light enough to navigate the kitchen if needed without a huge blast of kilowatts...

We have low-voltage strip xenon undercabinet lighting from Juno. The instructions and the Juno website specifically instructed ours need an "electronic low voltage dimmer". I don't know if all xenon undercabinet light need the eletronic kind, perhaps some need the magnetic kind. But it's easy enough to look up in your brand's instruction booklet or online. We found electronic low voltage dimmers from Lutron and Leviton. The plainer designs can be found easily at Home Depot or Lowes. They come at varying price points, like about $45 for the Lutron Skylark Electronic Low Voltage Dimmer, or about $65 for the Lutron Diva Electronic Low Voltage Dimmer to well over $100 for the fancier designs. While these prices seem a lot for a dimmer, in the scheme of a kitchen re-do, $45 or $65 or so isn't really a big proportion. You should (A) find out what brand are your undercabinet lights, and look up either online or in the enclosed instructions whether they need electronic or magnetic dimmers; and (B) look at your other switches in your kitchen and see if that style is offered in an electronic or magnetic (depending on what your lights call for) low voltage version so that it matches. BTW, I really like being able to control the light levels of my undercabinet lighting. Many times I need full-power, and many times I like them low for mood lighting, or somewhere in between. I think the dimmers are very worthwhile. My final advice - make sure you install the dimmer in a handy easy-to-reach place. We stood around our kitchen play-acting preparing food, to see which spots were most useful to have the dimmers.

I've never seen your kitchen (or any pictures of it) and thus don't know how your tiles or countertop or paint or cabinets will look like under different lighting, so I have no way to know which would make your colors look best, but my inclination is to go with PAR38 bulbs in 6" cans, because that gives you the most options now and also in the future to change if necessary, or if better/cheaper LED lights come along. I've generally found high color temperatures (4000K and up) look best with white cabinets, which turn yellowish under 2700K light, but that wood cabinets look best with lower color temperatures. But the differences between halogen (about 2850k) and 3000 or 3500K are more subtle. I lean towards the GE 20947 halogen PAR38 bulbs I mentioned earlier, in part because I've used them frequently and can vouch that they give off great light (a 2850K 100CRI halogen won't dull colors like a 2700K 82CRI CFL does), an even well-focused beam spread, and not much glare. And the light bulbs themselves look good, more so than many LED floodlamps currently available which look more like showerheads or jet engines with visible heatsinks. The halogen bulbs have a rated 3000 hour life; by the time they burn out there should be a much larger, higher quality, and cheaper assortment of LED retrofits available then there are now; indeed, a halogen bulb now and an LED replacement two or three years hence could be less expensive than an LED bulb now. I don't notice much heat from them when installed in an 8' ceiling - they're much further away from you than the lights on your rangehood, and considerably bigger but only slightly higher wattage (and wattage correlates with heat). If you're really concerned about adding any heat though, maybe something like the Home Depot Commercial Electric 5"/6" LED modules (or another similar brand) would be better - they're cool, not wildly expensive, efficient, 3000K, but also only low-80s CRI. You can put a PAR30 bulb in a 6" or 6.5" can, but doing so requires a conical trim kit to look good (so there's no big gap around the bulb), and I've never liked that appearance - the fixture looks too big for the bulb - but getting a PAR38-capable nonetheless gives you that flexibility, whereas a 5" can can use only a PAR30. Myself I still prefer to use 5" cans for PAR30 lights for the neater appearance. Long necks or short necks are a choice only for the PAR30 size; other sizes have only one common shape. The long-neck bulb is more common in residential fixtures, and most of what you'll find in consumer-oriented stores. Cheap bulb extenders are sold in hardware stores that will effectively turn a short-neck PAR30 into a long-neck version, and sometimes the socket in the recessed fixture can be adjusted in or out to suit either. The short-neck PAR30 (or smaller bulbs) are a good option when dealing with shallow ceilings though where big cans may not fit. But most times (and nearly all times if there's an attic above your kitchen), there's plenty of space for a normal-depth large can.