With regard to electrical receptacles, the electrical code is the more likely to address that issue. The NEC merely requires that such receptacles be GFCI protected. But I never know about NYC or California codes.

Petey may be a bit cranky here because we DO get a fair number of people here who want us to bless their code violations as some kind of special case for which an exception is justified. There are a few regulars here who sometimes do that where it makes sense and where there is reasonable precedent - just check out this thread. However, I agree with Petey that this isn't such a case. The code is clear-cut and rational on this point. It shouldn't be a significant burden to comply. In Jeremy's case it just means a little more fishing. To me this is, if nothing else, a matter of good workmanship and pride. Some of the code requirements for ranges were relaxed during the second world war when saving copper was a national priority. That's why the code allowed only 3 conductors instead of 4 for ranges. However, that rule persisted for 50 years after the war! Finally somebody noticed. ;-) I do recall seeing the NEC allowance for connecting both a cooktop and a wall oven to a 50 amp circuit, instead of having separate circuits for them, but I don't remember that the code allowed a smaller tap for each. I could be remembering wrong though, and I don't have the code here to check. But in any case I'd suspect that this ruling was originally another copper-saving measure - which is now no longer really needed. (I know, copper's scarce and pricey right now, but we have aluminum instead. ;-) I don't mean to suggest that I speak for Petey here; he can certainly speak for himself. Nor do I mean to impugn Jeremy's motives. I'm just explaining why some of us (including myself at times) now and then get annoyed with posters who come here for advice (which, I remind you, is free ;-), and then get sore and complain when they don't get the answers they had hoped for. After a while maybe some of us can get a little touchy about this, that's all.

Wow, I went through an emotional ride here, LOL. I was frustrated in the beginning (couldnÂt find neutral), then I became concerned (electrical tape), then I got more concerned (paint), then I became confused (no need for a green to be connected to a ground), then my concern regarding a green wire connection was quickly replaced with a valid "I'm sure (s)he cleaned some paint off the end of the ground wires" because she/he didnÂt! Finally, I laughed at "Obviously, you shouldn't open up a switch and start soldiering" IÂm thankful that there are people like you, willing to help. I understand that the best thing for me is to hire a professional electrician who would do the right thing, but the problem is I donÂt have any references for a reliable person and while picking up the phone & dialing any random company looks like an easy way out, there are too many chances I will get somebody who is not very knowledgeable. For example, I had to convince my last electrician that one of our outlets was not properly grounded by buying my own device & inserting it into the outlet in front of his eyes. He was fighting with me in the beginning because his device showed as if everything was fine (it was broken!!!) I would never insist if not for prior home inspection, where this flaw had been revealed by our inspector. Also, next time I call an electrician, it is good to know basic things, so I can see if he is doing a better job than the guy who used covered with paint wire for grounding a switch. Sorry, I digressed... Anyway, IÂm glad I asked these questions and found out many useful things. 1) As I stated before, whoever wired our home, DID NOT clean the ends of ground wires! I can clearly see the end of a ground wire covered with paint (middle light switch) I will take care of that  it is easy. Not so easy part is to open all our light switch boxes in order to inspect them  we have plenty. 2) I was the one, who covered the light sensor with an electrical tape (my husband thought it was ok yes, I can hear you screaming in disbelief ;)) 3) ItÂs a powder room with no sink installed, so humidity is not an issue, but I already removed all electrical tape & replaced it with blue caps. I will be creative & try to squeeze them behind the middle light switch. 4) I also cut the white wire off & installed the timer yesterday. Unfortunately, it doesnÂt work. I tested it: red & black show electricity flowing, green & white  no electricity. Red wire --> wire from the fixture; Black wire--> hot wire; Green --> ground; White--> White (neutral) Sounds right to me, but the timer doesnÂt work. Either I did something wrong or my Intermatic EI210 timer is faulty (the first thing is more likely to be the case ;))

So you thought my post was a waste of time but yet you respond with a pointless question. If i didnt think it would help i wouldnt have posted it. You cited 2 areas in the code book that dont really help with what was asked. I was in the middle of an arguement with an arrogant journeyman and was looking for something to back up the use of wire nuts to pigtail the grounds and this thread didnt help. I already found what you had cited and it didnt help. Later i found 250.8 and decided to add it to thread to possibly help someone else down the road. As old as it is, it still comes up when the subject is searched. Thats 5 min. of my life I'll never get back.... I'm done.