I'll make a comment on the size of the bins. When deciding on the size of each bin, one might consider the materials you will be composting. For example, if one expected to use a mix of sawdust and leaves as the 'browns', one might make the dimensions 3' by 3'. If one expected leaves to be the main 'browns', one might select 4' by 4' for bin size. If wood chips were expected to be the main 'brown' (without small filler stuff like sawdust), maybe a 5' by 5' size would be a good choice. My mesh bins are 5' by 8' by 2' high, and can reach 150F or more if the mix is optimal. The reason for the different sizes is due to air movement. Movement thru wood chips is easier than thru sawdust or very finely shredded leaves. The third number, height, can be less than the other two if the compost pile is sitting on the ground, which can also store heat. Since it is easier to turn a low pile, my compost piles have never been more than 2.5 feet high in recent years.

You absolutely can have the fixture hanging at the edge - I have the same situation in my house and it looks fine -- our breakfast area has half of a vaulted ceiling - it's weird. As someone said above, the most important thing is to make sure you are centering the outlet box directly over where the table will be. As long as the light is centered, it will look ok. (Our light was not centered when we first moved in, and we actually paid to have it moved because it was so annoying!). I would probably stick with a light the same shape as your table as well - if you're going with a round table, I'd do a round fixture, not a long one. We have a very long and skinny table and recently swapped the fixture in the pics below (a round one) for a long skinny one like the one linked above and it looks much better. I'll link to some pics I have, but they're really old -- we have color on the walls and a different light and table (and my kids are 6 and 10 and no longer sitting in the blue plastic high chair, LOL!). Plus the angles I have don't really capture how the light fixture looks jutting out into the vaulted area, but hopefully you can get the idea -- it's not that clear from the pics, but part of the ceiling is wooden and slightly vaulted and the other half (the part closest to you in the pics) is an open area straight up to the second floor ceiling with a balcony looking down at the table. I need to find the cord to my camera to take some new pics!

Your foyer sounds exactly like mine, actually, yours might be a touch larger. I currently have a huge fixture in that space. I believe the original owners chose it to fill the large window, and fill it does! We call it the big brass spider. I'm struggling with getting rid of it because its a gorgeus real brass fixture (and priced at $3k new on Progress Lighting website), but I feel its far too large. It has 3 tiers, 21 lights total and trips the breaker if I have it on and try to vacuum the hall. Now, my fixture is 48 inches wide, and it is far too large. But I think 36 would work for me, and I think from what your describing, my foyer is slightly smaller than yours. Here is a link that might be useful: The big Brass Spider

OK. Next step is easy. Just BE CAREFUL and pay attention. You need eye protection (safety glasses)while doing the tests. Turn off the breaker. Unplug and pull out the dryer and remove the plate that covers the terminal strip where the cable is connected. There should be a diagram that shows how the cable should be wired, but typically there is a terminal strip with 3 connections. The black and red wires go to the outside terminals, white in the middle. If you have a flat gray cable the 2 outside wires go to the 2 outside terminals and the middle wire to the middle terminal. You can verify the middle wire in the gray cable is neutral because it will have "ribs" or small raised lines on it. If you find the cable hooked up wrong stop, put the cover back on, and call the appliance store. They have a problem. (unless hubby installed the cable - then the appliance store guy gets the coffee and stuff) Do not touch the dryer with anything but the meter probes while doing the following tests. If the cable appears to be hooked up right, plug the dryer back in and turn it (if you can) so you have access to the terminal strip where the cable connects. Don't attempt this if you have to get in a small place between the wall and dryer to do as there just isn't enough room to work safely. Turn on the breaker. Carefully touch the meter probes to the middle terminal and a piece of bare metal on the dryer. If you read voltage stop immediately something is miswired. If this checks out OK, test the two outside terminals - should be 240 volts or so. Then test each outside terminal to the middle - should be 120 volts. If you still don't have 120 volts but have the 240 you most likely have a damaged receptacle, or, less likely, a bad cable. If you have the 120 volts to both outside terminals the dryer has issues. Breaker off, cover back on. So, what's the outcome?