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Electrical Wiring

Power From an Outlet to a Switch and Outlets

14 years ago

I think I know how to do this but want to make sure.

I have a counter outlet and I want to power a switch off of it (duplex box, walls are open) that will control three outlets, one on each wall above the wall cabinets for plugging in LED lighting.

The counter (source) outlet is a middle-of-the-run outlet. This is how I think it should be wired:

I leave the source cable black & white wires connected to the outlet. Then I pigtail three blacks together, one 6 inch piece to the other brass screw of the source outlet, one is the black from the cable that runs on down the line and one is another 6 inch piece that runs to the bottom screw of the switch.

I pigtail three whites together, one 6 inch piece runs to the other silver screw on the source outlet, one is the white from the cable that runs on down the line and one is from the cable that runs to the above cabinet outlets.

The black from the cable that runs to the above cabinet outlets is attached to the top screw of the switch.

Is the above correct?

Thank you.

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Comments (4)

normel
14 years ago
Doing it like this with 12/2 in a duplex box will violate your box fill restrictions. Better to run from the existing box to the first new box, then to the next, etc.

Of course, if this is a kitchen countertop small appliance circuit, it is a violation to tap it for lighting.
nuckphoto
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks for the reply.

Better to run from the existing box to the first new box, then to the next, etc.

If I don't put the switch in the existing outlet location (I would use a large enough box), where would it go?

Of course, if this is a kitchen countertop small appliance circuit, it is a violation to tap it for lighting.

It is. A two foot counter next to the fridge. So that's out.

Well, there are a couple of switches about a foot or so away from that outlet that turn the dining area light and living room fan on and off. Can they be tapped for power? They seem to involve a MWBC due to a 12/3 involved. And, I've installed a third switch (3-way) at that location to operate the kitchen main light from two locations but it doesn't involve wiring from the two other switches. Make sense?
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joed
14 years ago
It could be a switch loop. You might not be able to pull power from the switch box. If there are any white wires in the box NOT connected to the switches then you should be OK.
If all the wires are connected to the switches then you can't pull power from the box. You could add switches but you need a different source for power.
nuckphoto
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks for the response.

If there are any white wires in the box NOT connected to the switches then you should be OK.

I should be able to. The power source cable coming into the box is a 12/2 and the whites from the 12/2 & 12/3 are wire nutted together and not connected to either switch. The blacks from the 12/2 & 12/3 and two black 6 in pieces (one to each switch) are nutted tother. So, if I add the white & black wires from the new 12/2 to the white & black wire nutted ones, I should be in like Flint. But that would be five 12s (black) in one wire nut. Allowed?

When calculating box size, are the short pieces counted?

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