Clean it immediately. It should be clean with no haze when grouted. It sounds like incomplete cleaning. The longer you wait the harder it will be to get off.

If the wall feels clammy, especially at corners or anywhere the durabond is thickest, you need to wait. Nothing can stick to damp compound. It will take the longest to dry where it is coolest and has the least air movement, so a fan and space heater can really help. The unical by itself was ready to paint in 24 hrs as a veneer plaster, I'm really only concerned about the durabond areas. Casey

How long to wait for oil paint on trim to dry before sanding floors? Is this a joke or trick question?? The trim should be removed BEFORE the floor is sanded so that you can get as close to the wall as possible and not ding up the trim with the sander. If you try to sand a floor with the trim attached using a drum sander. You are going to end up with a ridge that will be felt and noticed approx. 1/2" in the floor out from the trim. A plate sander oscillates which basically means that the plate holding the sanding pad vibrates. Depending on the old finish and grit of the pad being used that action can cause the sander to suddenly move (jerk) a few inches in any direction. Meaning that your trim is going to take a few hits as you sand close to it along the walls. So the trim should be removed. That way you it will not get dinged up during sanding, Will not get messed up by any floor stain or finish and can be sanded, painted and allowed to dry as the floor finish dries. You will be much happier with the results and not have to go back and touch up the trim by sanding with it in placed.

Oh dear. The 'wet work' needs to be done BEFORE the floors are refinished...but that hasn't happened. So now we have to do it bass akwards. The REAL way to do this (ahem...if a professional contractor with HIGH standards were in charge of this) is: 1. Wait the FULL cure time (7 - 10 days) before ANYTHING ELSE gets done 2. Cover the wood floor (after the cure time has elapsed) with Ram Board 3. Continue with the sanding/painting and door hanging 4. Do NOT use tape on the wood floors. The Ram Board should be taped to itself AND THEN up the walls with 'Green' low-tack painters' tape (aka 'Delicate Surfaces' tape). 5. Remove the tape (not the Ram Board) at the end of each day of work 6. Reapply tape at the beginning of each day of work should you need to (keeps the Ram Board from slipping and causing serious injury to the worker) Once the 'wet' work has been completed, you clean up the room and THEN you remove the ram board. Sweep and vacuum. Do NOT damp mop your floors for at least 2 weeks after the final coat has been applied. I'm sorry you to go through the 'wrong way around' process but it is faster/cheaper than having to sand/refinish your floors because of the damage of working on a SOFT finish. The 'dry' time is not the HARDENING time. Dry just means 'no longer liquid'. A floor finish often has 3 coats. Each coat has a 'hardening' time. When three coats are applied the first and second coats stay SOFT (as in you can leave foot prints and debris can be embedded in it) for those 10 days. A fresh finish is a floor that has reached 95% cure rate (7-10 days) but still has 5% left to go. That's why you CANNOT mop your floors for 2 WEEKS after the final coat has been applied. The floor is still CURING. Whew! Good luck. Leave the room/floor alone for the next 7-10 days AND THEN cover them with Ram Board. Do NOT cover them 'too early' or you will have embedded the ram boar INTO the soft finish....kinda like painting a window shut. It isn't a fun thing to learn about. So do not rush this. The floor MUST HARDEN enough to allow Ram Board to go over top. There is NO WAY around this.