How can I finish a reclaimed pine, salvaged wod table?
alexbz
11 years ago
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mary_ruth
11 years agoUser
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Pics of my RH salvaged wood trestle table
Comments (43)cadamsinco - I would not want to use this (or any) table without a protective coat so I understand your concerns. It's been several years and the finish on the table is holding up just fine. No stains or water marks at all, and it gets used on a daily basis (and lots of kids here, big and little!) I just ordered the Monocoat Refresh to freshen up the finish but haven't used it yet. These instructions seem even more simple than the first coat - just wipe on and wipe off. I also ordered more of the clear oil to use on the new RH Dutch Industrial side table I just bought. The oil does darken the wood finish to a nice, warm brown and I actually prefer this. Here is a link that shows pictures of the table after I applied the oil. It's pretty much still the same color - maybe got a bit lighter after it was done curing. Here is a link that might be useful: Pics of Monocoat oil on RH table...See MoreI found a perfect alternative to the RH salvaged trestle table
Comments (22)Thank you for the good review goldengirl. It makes me feel much more secure in my decision to order the table with this company. It was actually Dave that I spoke with on the phone, and he was extremely helpful and informative. ttodd - I love barley twist legs. Actually, I just found a great tiger oak table with barley twist legs yesterday at the antique flea market. I don't know where I'm going to put it yet, but couldn't pass it up!...See MoreCan I replace a table top?
Comments (7)Thanks for responding! Here are some pix- they are from my cell phone so sorry for the quality. I sanded off some of the finish on the corner. I now think it might be solid oak plank? I am not sure. Thoughts? The unfinished wood is different colors b/c I got part of it wet right before taking this pix (not intentionally). This one is with my new cabinet doors on top so I'd want to refinish the table to sort of coordinate. If this oak, I'd like to finish it so it looks aged and then I guess paint the chairs an offwhite and distress them slightly. My floors will be american black walnut so fairly dark. Would appreciate any advice....See MoreReclaimed heart pine island top
Comments (17)I agree a top built like that is doomed to fail, if your definition of failure is uncontrolled movement. Bolting/gluing a steel framework underneath it could have deterred it from moving at the risk of increasing to 90% the likelihood that it will split. How do you build a successful (IOW, stable) wood top? You select narrow strips of dry quartersawn (vertical) grain and glue them up, not tree-width slabs of plain-sawn lumber. The droopy side is because of gravity pulling it down, plus the fact than an un(der)finished underside is losing moisture while the highly-finished topside ain't. If the OP decides to move ahead with some kind of reinforcement underneath, I can offer these tips: Place a humidifier under the ledge for a few hours and see if the warp begins to level out. "Clamping it flat" isn't going to come without a price, it could split then and there, and the stresses will still be present, Tempering the wood to release stress is the way to go. Steel tubing frame underneath is fine; it would allow "kerfing" with a saw every 3" or so along the grain (stopping short of the end-grain so it stays invisible). Kerfing with a circular saw reduces the effective thickness of the slab to whatever margin of uncut material is left. I would leave 5/8". The steel tubing frame gives it structure. The screw holes in the steel frame will need to be slotted out at the edges so the wood can expand and contract (a center row of holes can be left normal, as this will center the frame to the wood, ensure that movement occurs evenly-distributed across the width. Casey...See Morebobismyuncle
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