"Sand and restain" is rarely a good option. Stain really needs unfinished wood and sanding is a poor and risky way to remove finish (especially if the top if veneered).

The dots look like damage from something with plastic feet that was set on the table for extended periods and it's damaged the finish.

One option you might try first is just to abrade/polish the whole top. One product that will do that is an abrasive and oil-impregnated cloth that's used to remove water spots (blush). But it also works like a fine polishing compound and will give you a glossy finish. If the dots are significantly deep, you might need to back up a step and buff with 0000 Steel Wool that will be a little more aggressive (read: faster working). Then follow up with the cloth to even out the sheen. Homak and Jasco are two brands of the same cloth that comes in a little envelope (see link). Only difference I can see is one has yellow and black package and the other red and black. I've seen them in the paint departments of Home Depot, Lowe's and Wal*mart.

Worst case, you have not spent a lot of money or done any irreparable damage and you can try something more aggressive Repairs like this are like making soup -- it's a lot easier to add more onions than to .make less onion.

I have used Howard's Restor-a-finish several times as an experiment and I'm not impressed than it's anything more than a fancy furniture polish,. Some of the alcohol (methanol and/or ethanol) in it may remove blush, and some of the colorants in it may temporarily disguise scratches. In a few months it won't look significantly better. My opinion of it is that it's putting lipstick on the pig at the antique store and when a customer buys a piece and comes back in a few weeks to say the finish is dull, the antique store will say, "Here, you need to buy some of this..."

Here is a link that might be useful: one place to buy the cloth.

Not a DIY project in your case. If the table is valuable, improper refinishing will destroy the value.

Need to find out how valuable it is and whether what you have already done has lowered the value, if any.

If the table is sentimental/decorative value, you need to determine if it has been veneered before sanding. Veneer is very thin, which means improper sanding can go through the veneer and ruin the appearance.

Next step is to determine the finish on the table. Wet a cloth with alcohol(any kind) and rub a spot(usually underneath). If the finish softens/dissolves, it is shellac. If it is shellac, wiping the top with alcohol will remove the finish without sanding.

The little spots look to be caused by the feet of a container/vase/etc. Wiping them with alcohol should even them. Hand sanding(200 grit or finer) might be needed.

Easiest good finish to apply is real varnish---not polyurethane or poly varnish. More resistant to water/alcohol/spills/cleaning and can be spot repaired in necessary. Poly finishes contain plastic and are darn near impossible to repair(remove finish and reapply.

You can apply wiping varnish, which is actually wiped on with a cloth/applicator. Where three coats of brushed or sprayed varnish are normal, six to eight coats of wiping varnish are needed for similar protection as the wiping variety is thinned for ease of application.

I have been having a lot of fun repolishing an old finish with 1500 grit wet sandpaper followed by a felt rubbing block with mineral oil and FF Pumice. It looks amazing, as long as the film thickness is still enough to stand the 1500 grit color-sanding.
Casey

If you decide to refinish-- and I'd try all the suggestions above before going that route-- sanding is almost never the best way to remove old finish. Use a chemical stripper that does not involve water -- for shellac that might be methanol or denatured alcohol, for varnishes or polyurethane something with methylene chloride (if it's still available where you live). This will lift the finish without disturbing the veneer, and often without changing the color of the wood; importantly it won't raise the grain or otherwise damage the wood surface, allowing you to finish without the risks and loss of material inherent in sanding. Use proper ventilation and personal protective equipment of course!

As pointed out, the current rather unfathomable style in antiques is to regard accumulated dirt as a desirable feature, so refinishing can detract from value even when done well. The number of nice pieces ruined by a trip through the dip tank and brutal refinishing probably support that point of view but for old, well made, but not valuable furniture a careful refinishing back to something that looks like the original can add many decades to its useful life.

Unlike Handy and others I don't have a bias for or against a polyester/alkyd resin vs a polyurethane varnish. Either can give very good or very bad results depending on application.

Re: "destroy the value by refinishing"

Many people have nice old tables that in current condition are worth maybe $50 at a yard sale (or $25 at the end of the day). Left as-is, it will deteriorate in short order. People freeze like deer in headlights when they think they are going to destroy some valuable antique by cleaning it up. Sure, check, pay a couple of hundred to have it appraised if you think there's any chance it's worth $50K or more. Odds are extremely against it.

Here is a link that might be useful: deterioraton and

Thanx for the responses. I will try the suggestions here. I do not think the table is valuable, Its was just my first real furniture investment 30+ years ago. Also, before I ruined the finish - I loved the table top and the 8 chairs and Queen Anne buffet match, etc. I have little experience but experienced enough to know I shouldnt pay $1000.00 for someone else to re- do it. I also have my Dad's voice in my head saying never paint over solid wood but not opposed to Pottery barn black chalk if these options dont work. Thanx again.

White spots mean damage to the finish. It's either moisture in the finish or scuffs on the surface. The latter can be cleaned/buffed out but the former requires riskier methods that can make things worse if done incorrectly. I won't even post them here because some of the blush-removing techniques are dangerous if done wrong.

What worked for us on some old furniture with water marks and the like was a very simple paste of Baking Soda and just enough water to make a loose paste. Worked it in a few times and presto chango we were looking good again.

in dealing with the unknown, start with the least aggressive treatment and move on from there. 1st, clean the surface with a mild solvent like wax and silicone cleaner. wipe solvent on , and using a a clean white rag, wipe the solvent off till the rag is fairly clean, and let dry.now the dirt and old polish are gone and you can see what your dealing with. from what i can see, the wood is bleached, and the water damage has gone all the way through . the simplest way to improve the looks of the table is to use a colored polyurethane.(i'd suggest a medium to dark walnut, mahogany might make it too red.) easy to use and hides a multitude of sins. scuff sand the surface 1st with 280 or 220 sand paper then repeat the above. the most important part is to get ALL of the wax and grime off . if you don't, you'll get fish eye and you'll chase that problem down till hell freezes over. if the finish is too shinny , use 4.0 steel wool with water and a LITTLE bit of mild soap and rub in one directly only. start to rub with even pressure and gently wipe clean. still too shinny ? use a bit more pressure.