RayK, Check for a short in the wiring to the solenoid. Has anything occurred that would damage the wiring to Zone 6? Check all the screw connections at the solenoid end and redo the connection at the controller for zone 6. Check the common wire connection as well. If you know how to test for continuity on zone 6 wire do that as well. Another way is to string an external wire all the way from zone 6 controller terminal to the solenoid connection and see if that temporarily solves the problem. JMHO Aloha

OK, let's concentrate on the ammeter. Does this ammeter mount in a metal panel? or is the dash plastic? If the dash is metal, it is possible that the ammeter is shorting to ground internally, but don't rush out and buy another ammeter yet, there are some tests to do first. Do you own a multimeter (that will test volts, ohms, and continuity)? If not, you need to buy one before doing any testing. This may take several posts to get to the root of the problem. If the ammeter mounts in a metal panel, set the multimeter to Ohms or to "continutity" if you have that feature on your meter. This test applies ONLY if the ammeter mounts in metal. If dash is plastic, skip this test. Unplug the wires from the ammeter. Place one of the test meter leads on one wire post of the ammeter and the other test meter lead on a clean, bare metal part of the tractor. You should read "infinity" if using an Ohmeter, or "no continuity" if using continuity setting. Test both of the posts on the ammeter and they should both show infinity or no continuity. If either post of the ammeter shows continuity to ground, the ammeter is shorted internally and needs replacing. Get back with some test results. Alternatively, you can test for a shorted ammeter by connecting together the 2 wires that attach to the ammeter. If you connect the 2 ammeter wires together and the fuse does not blow, you have proved the ammeter to be shorted.

The schematic to the PTO is quite simple. Basically 12V is provided from the A1/A2 terminal(s) of the key switch. (they are jumpered together). It then goes through the PTO switch to the PTO. I'm not exactly sure the PTO is the problem though! Every thing else electrical is provided by the same circuit. IF you have a short on ANYTHING else, it'll blow the fuse. That includes the carb solenoid, wiring through the seat switch to the Operator Presence Relay, Headlights (if ON) and Hour meter if equipped. All those circuits are fed off the alternator (if charging) with the "excess" going through the fuse to charge the battery. Look at the schematic in your OM.

If the thermal fuses keeps blowing, there must be a heat /vent / air-flow problem. The Blower Wheel may be slipping on the Shaft Check and clean the whole length of the vent. Check the amount of air out the vent on the outside of the house and check the air-flow at the back of the dryer with the vent disconnected. How long is your vent ? NO PVC NO screws NO plastic Rigid Metal Vent Flexible vent not reccomended If the thermal fuse blew, that means that the High-Limit Thermostat probably shorted and isn't doing it's job anymore because of the over-use of it - The vent temperatures are too high. The High-Limit Thermostat is supposed to cycle first (when there's an over-temp), and when it can't anymore because of over-use, the Thermal Fuse blows. There is a possiblity that the Heating Element is partialy shorted to ground causing part of it to remain energized when it should be OFF. The Thermal Fuses... did you buy the dryer new ? Was it ever repaired ? The previous owner may have had the same problem (at least twice) and installed the correct Fuse, and when that eventually blew, installed the Gas Thermal Fuse.