You are going to have to look and verify the presence or absence of a flange/flashing.

Leaving the frame and jumping it is going to give you your best bet of a leak proof install if you are not comfortable with cutting back the siding.

I checked last time I was at the house and it did have a flange. Could I cut the vertical pieces of aluminum (the tracks that the window sits in) down and grind it smooth to maximize the space I have for the window but leave the frame intact?

Not likely.

You will be impacting the drainage of that unit and negating any benefit of doing a frame jump.

Frame jump or full tear out with siding cut back are your best options.

Thanks for your advice. If going the full tear out route you would recommend replacements with nailing flanges, adding new drip cap and flashing?

I'll get some pictures up soon of what Im working with and let you know how it goes after Im done too.

Yes.

Cut back the siding, install flat trim around windows to allow for nailing flange/flashing/drip cap installation type.

The particular brand window you are looking at offers installation guides for either with or without the nailing flange online. For my application, I am installing from the exterior without flanges, and utlizing basic backer rod and caulk per the 100S no flange installation guidelines. I used to work for a large national replacement window company. I currently work for Andersen and live outside Austin, TX.

This post was edited by sanderaiTX on Tue, Nov 11, 14 at 14:26

@sanderaiTX,

I guess you see a lot of aluminum windows. What is the normal mode for replacement in Austin? Do folks usually tear out the old ones or replace over the frames? Either way is fine to me, I just want to make it as "waterproof" as possible. The house has aluminum window frames and the siding is wood, T1-11 or hardie plank in good condition.

Are you replacing aluminum framed windows? if so are you tearing them out or replacing over them?

This post was edited by sgreer13 on Tue, Nov 11, 14 at 15:15

Ive been thinking about going the jump over route and I found this guys story posted here

http://www.preyerplanning.com/vinyl-retrofit-window-installation-steps.pdf

It looks like he went with milgard. I was wondering what you guys think about milgard tuscany or styline vs Anderson 100s. Also would you recommend the tuscany over the styline for replacement windows? What are the major differences regarding styleline vs tuscany?

The 100 looks like a nice window if going with casements. Don't care for their single hungs and sliders.

Here is what my current windows look like

Here is what the tracks of the window look like

I am thinking of going with the Milgard Tuscany and Styleline pocket replacement windows with the Z-bar or the nail flange w/o z bar. The exterior is just wood hardiplank siding. any advice?

Z-bar (retro) will be the easiest and least complicated. As long as you are careful and detailed, they look quite good when done.

I was initially going to try this myself and still might, however I found a window installer at a reasonable cost ( I buy the window first) he said that he prefers to tear out the old window and install a new one with nailing flange. We discussed flashing , integrating original weather barrier and proper installation according to the AAMA guidelines and it sounds like he is willing to do the job correctly. All things being equal would it be better to go with flush fin pocket replacement over original frame or full replacement with a drip cap and trimmed with wood/siding?

I was initially going to try this myself and still might, however I found a window installer at a reasonable cost ( I buy the window first) he said that he prefers to tear out the old window and install a new one with nailing flange. We discussed flashing , integrating original weather barrier and proper installation according to the AAMA guidelines and it sounds like he is willing to do the job correctly. All things being equal would it be better to go with flush fin pocket replacement over original frame or full replacement with a drip cap and trimmed with wood/siding?

If you are comfortable with him, he is proposing the best way to do it.

I was initially going to try this myself and still might, however I found a window installer at a reasonable cost ( I buy the window first) he said that he prefers to tear out the old window and install a new one with nailing flange. We discussed flashing , integrating original weather barrier and proper installation according to the AAMA guidelines and it sounds like he is willing to do the job correctly. All things being equal would it be better to go with flush fin pocket replacement over original frame or full replacement with a drip cap and trimmed with wood/siding?

Full frame, when done right, is the best.

I have decided to go the full frame replacement. I have been looking at various types of sill pan flashing. One product that I like (at least the idea behind it) is the Protectowrap Sill Pan Drainage System. It is installed over flexible membrame flashing and it is layer of sloped foam covered in a water wicking material designed to draw any moisture into the flashing and away from the interior of the structure or so it seems. Most methods I have read about use either a metal sill pan, liquid flashing or flexible membrane. The Sill Pan Drainage System seems like an added bit of security assuming your initial flashing and window sealing is done properly. My question is: Is it worth it? I got a quote for 100' (of which I will likely need about 50') for just shy of $250. Most flexible membrane flashing and liquid flashing is about $40-60 for 50-75' depending on width. Any thoughts or perhaps other practical ideas for making the best possible water tight/ optimal draining sill pan? I'm not trying to be cheap, just practical. This product must be special ordered whereas most of the other protecto wrap products can be bought off the shelf leading me to believe that the Sill Pan Drainage System is not commonly used in my area ( Austin TX) either because it is not needed or due to cost or better alternatives .

They all work.

A $150 delta is nothing in the greater scheme of things and if you think it will work better or is easier for you to work with....do it.

Post up some progress photos and depending on when you do it, I will be in Austin in the Spring. Love to see some pictures.

Thanks for your input! I am planning to start after the holiday. If I order the windows in Jan and it takes 2-4 weeks to manufacture and deliver I'm guessing the project will officially start in March or April.I have already started getting the tools and materials to start the project. Im not sure what WindowsonWashington means but if you mean DC I am actually from that area, about 40 minutes south of the district in MD

Washington as in DC is correct.

What part of MD?

Charles County

Pretty parts down there. I have a couple of buddies that used to live out there as well.