Switches 2008 NEC Article 409.9(B) "Grounding": "Snap switches, including dimmer and similar control switches, shall be connected to an equipment grounding conductor and shall provide a means to connect metal faceplates to the equipment grounding conductor, whether or not a metal faceplate is installed. Snap switches shall be considered to be part of the effective ground-fault current path if either of the following conditions is met: (1) The switch is mounted with metal screws to a metal box or metal cover that is connected to an equipment grounding conductor or to a nonmetallic box with integral means for connecting to an equipment grounding conductor. (2)An equipment bonding jumper is connected to an equipment grounding termination of the snap switch." ---------------------------- Since the original poster makes no mention of a metal box nor any mention of a non-metallic box with an integral means to connect to an equipment grounding conductor, the only type switch that can be used here is one that has its own equipment grounding conductor terminal or equipment grounding conductor. It is a code violation to use the ungrounded switch he purchased and needs to replace it.

You can probably find more than one well-illustrated book on home wiring at the library.

The bulb in this socket draws enough current that the spurious voltages will not occur. I assume that there are two black/white pairs which come from the breaker box. It's easy to see which black is which. First, connect the white on this socket to the twisted whites and touch the black on the test light to each of the blacks and see if any of the blacks are hot. Once you have confirmed that at least one white/black pair is powered, turn off that breaker and make these temporary connections more secure (not just touching live wires). Turn the breaker back on and then turn on and off the likely wall switches. If none of the switches make the test light go off, then you have found a source of power. Repeat the above for all the black wires and see if any of them are switched. Finally, and I'm not sure about the following test, but if one of the black wires never shows power, it must go to another light fixture or receptacle. Connect your test light between the black power source and this unknown black wire. If your test light glows, then that black wire goes to something which draws current (perhaps a ceiling light with an incandescent bulb in it), and you can figure out what that is by observation. If it doesn't glow, then take another test light, put a regular plug on it, and plug it into each of the likely receptacles. If this second test light glows, then the two lights are in series and you know where this unknown wire goes and you can nut it to the power source wire (or to the switched wire, if you want that receptacle switched). One thing I don't know is how to trace out the white wires. If each of them act as a reliable neutral, then maybe it doesn't matter. If it does matter, I don't know how to identify which is which. Sorry for this long response; I hope I'm clear.

There are two hardware components. the receiver with antenna was installed at the ceiling location between the house box and fan. The second component was the wall control which is what I displayed. This should swap with the existing switch, however the wiring is not the same configuration. old existing switch was single gang, dual slider with separate wires for fan, light, and hot. New switch has only two wires for fan and hot. attaching pictures of the instructions for further clarity.