How wide is the crown? If it is not more than 6" wide, a compuond miter saw(just tilt/turn) will be sufficient. I have a DeWalt 12" CMS(Compound Miter Saw) I have used for installing all kinds of trim for several years. If you need a slider, Makita/Bosch make the better ones---and if you get a slider, a 10" model should be enough. Frued makes a Fine Finish blade(80 tooth model) that I use for trim. It is a thinner than normal blade and does have a deflection issue if I cut too fast---but nice and slow allows beautiful cuts. However, I only use the miter saw for outside corner joints---and initial cuts for coping---I cope as many inside joints as possible. I have two cabinetmakers rasps(flat one side and half round on the other with a rasp cut and file cut each) and an old wooden handle coping saw my father had. Reason being that most corners in most houses are not a perfect 45 degree angle. That means to get a decent joint, you need to measure each time you need to make a joint, divide in half, putter around adjusting the CMS table and hope it works. With a little practice, you can cope a joint---and it will be much better looking---faster than you can miter cut one(with all the adjusting/etc.) Plus, a coped joint does not open/close due to seasonal changes nearly as bad as mitered joints. You will see jigs advertised that allow you to cut coped joints with a jigsaw---I have no idea of the accuracy of those. Toe kick vent holes are better cut with a sabre saw(Jigsaw)---you already have that. Nailers---whooBoy! In my experience, the correct size nail for crowm will split shoe molding, so one nailer for all your jobs is not gonna happen. Those Paslodes are nice tools---but expensive and dirty---meaning cleaning is required---ala pistol shooting. So, that means two nailers. About $700-$800+. You can buy a Porter Cable combo---with a 16 guage 2&1/2" nailer(will do crown nicely), an 18 gauge nailer(shoe), a 7/32" stapler(I use one for part of the door casing installation---same size as what is used to install casing on prehund assemblies)----plus a compressor(loud) , hose, fittings, and lube oil bottle. I have and have used all those nailers in commercial use for years---not a problem. For about $250 for the whole shebang. And, with the compressor/nailers, you have the ability to regulate pressure/depth of the nail set. The only drawback---in my experience, is the compressor noise---it is loud, due to the oilless design. I have a slightly larger oil type compressor in my shop that is much quieter, but much less portable. I bought a longer hose and keep the compressor in the next room---cuts way down on the noise. Sounds as if you will do a fine job, you have the right attitude and abilities. Let us know what you bought and how it is going.

I found it. I just couldn't believe I found it. My son was helping me move some boxes in the shop today. One of the boxes came apart and everything spilled out. I told him go back out to play, I'll fix the box and pick it all up. I found a thick plastic bag with some oddball stuff in it. It kinda jogged my memory so I started poking thru the stuff. And in it was that guage. I went and found my son and told him how greatful I was that he spilled that box. That tool has been missing since before he was born. First thing he asks, "Do I get a reward?" To which I gave him these words of wisdom. "A smile of gratitude is the best reward you can get." But at least I found it. I can finally get my planer blades sharpened. Told my wife now we need to get a safety deposit box to put it in. And only let it out under armed escort. Pooh Bear

Have them made at Adams Lumber. (If theyre still in business) LOL, I used to work in LR. In AR, you should be able to get cypress fairly easily. That's your best local wood that fits the bill for stability and weather resistance. Nothing can beat a mortise & tenon joint for longevity. But they are also beyond the tool selection you have to work with. I personally hate beadlock, but If you can master it better than I, it is a satisfactory joint; it's essentially a loose-tenon system that uses a jig to drill out the mortises with a brad-point bit, and loose tenons which are made in a beaded shape to fit the wavy mortises without further squaring up. You can buy ready-made beadlock tenon in strips, or buy a special router bit to make it yourself. The advantage would be making cypress beadlock rather than the beechwood(?) stuff that comes ready-made. 1/4" glass is plate glass! It's heavy. Do you mean 1/4" plexi? Casey

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