I really think only you can make this decision. Of whether or not the cabinets will look less builder grade to you if the grain shows. However, I'll say this. The superlative durability of the FPE ECO will not change, whether you use grain filler or not. THAT is the primary reason to use this paint on your cabinets. While yes, it is also beautiful, it is the hard as a rock durability that made me choose it over anything else for my cabinets and exterior house woodwork.

Girlwithaspirin was one who did an amazing job painting her oak cabinets. There is a link below to her before and after photos. Here are her instructions and comments: painting my cabinets dark... the process! posted by: girlwithaspirin on 10.06.2008 at 11:45 pm in Kitchens Forum Hey kids. Long time, no type. :) I hope all's well with all my old pals here. In the last few weeks, I've gotten at least 15 emails asking how I painted my cabinets. Such a nice surprise, considering how long it's been since I posted! I wish I could remember who I initially gleaned all this info from. You guys were an immense help, so now I'm just paying it forward. Supplies: Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo Alkyd in Bittersweet Chocolate Purdy angled brushes Thick plastic dropcloths Sandpaper Mineral spirits and rags for clean-up as you go -Remove doors. -Clean and lightly sand everything. -Remove dust with a tack cloth. -Rest each door on its bottom edge. Do not paint that edge -- youâÂÂll do it once the doors are re-hung. -Paint the backs first with a thin coat of Satin Impervo. Thin coats give more of a handrubbed look and also avoid drips. If you do see some drips, try to catch them early -- once the paint starts to dry, youâÂÂll make a mess trying to smooth them out. Let dry at least overnight, preferably a few nights to avoid smudges when you flip the doors around. -Paint the fronts in the same way. -Let cure for as long as you can stand it. A week would be ideal. -In the meantime, paint the cabinet boxes. I didnâÂÂt paint the insides, and IâÂÂve never regretted it. -After a weekâÂÂs gone by, re-hang the doors. Paint the bottom edge of each. Do any touch-up. -Depending on your wood, the paint may keep absorbing in certain places. I kept the paint can in my kitchen for a month, doing quick touch-ups wherever necessary. If you have oak, keep in mind, you will see grain through the paint. If you'd rather not, you'll have to use some kind of putty to fill the grain, then prime, then paint. I just didn't have the energy for it, and it turns out, I love the look -- people mistake it for a handrubbed stain all the time. I'm so happy with how the cabinets have stood up over time. Not a single chip or scratch! To be honest, I cut so many corners in the prep (by choosing not to prime), I thought for sure I'd be dealing with the aftermath now. I credit the paint and patience for 100% of the success. Seriously, this paint is the real deal. Here is a link that might be useful: Beautifully painted Oak cabs

There is a reason why French polishers charge a fortune, and this is it. A very difficult and time consuming process to master. Cabinet finishing and polishing apprentices require years to get this right in the U.K. There are many different colors of shellac. Knowing which one to use and achieving the deep mirror like finish requires the building up of many many PERFECTLY applied coats. Personally, I think this is not one for DIY, especially with a valuable antique as your guinea pig. Just my opinion.

Thank you ALL so much! Your kind words mean so much! I really appreciate you all taking the time to offer encouragement! I don't remember a particular brand of grain filler we used. We did this project 5 years ago, so some of the details are a little fuzzy. It was grain filler we bought at Lowe's or Home Depot. You sand the cabinets down to the bare wood, fill in with grain filler, sand again, then start your coats of primer. We found the original Kilz formula to work the best. It is nasty stuff, but it works the best in our experience and we have tried them all I think. These corbels came with little places/slots for screws to attach them. We used screws with nuts on them so they could sit on them for some support. Then I think we used a liquid nails type product to further attach them. We did add a trim piece to "finish" the ends where the beadboard was applied. Just go to a lumber place or Lowe's and find something the right size. We made this up as we went along. :) You know how projects like this snowball. Here is the best close up I have of the end: Thanks again everyone!