Hello again. Below is the letter I'm ready to send to the company that handles warranty. Please feel free to comment !! --- X, I think there is something worth sharing here. It's a bit too much for a phoned-in description so I am not eager to make a phone call as the first point of contact. Perhaps __(the manufacturer)__ needs to see the "Interesting part" below. Yesterday I received a voicemail message call from someone in your firm asking me to call back to speak to you. I'm glad someone called. He said he had seen the email sent yesterday. He made a small mistake in his description of the situation. This is one good reason to write things down. Please read. I have the __XxxX_ cooktop. It's still under warranty. I found a small visual "schematic" on the underside of the cooktop. It mentions different color wires than the red, black and green wires which the cooktop has. I'll guess the wires were replaced by you or by the factory so as to correspond to North American standard colors. If so, it changes nothing electrically. It has two wires (two hots), and a ground wire. The black and red take the two hot wires of a 230V circuit, and the green is grounded. If this is correct, read on; otherwise please advise. In the manual, there is no information about the wiring or schematic diagram. In the manual, it says to "follow the connection schematic" but there was no schematic diagram provided, separately, and none in the manual. If the visual provided in the label on the underside is the schematic, this would be good to know. Good news: the cooktop works. I've been using it every day for a few weeks now. I'm not sure if it works perfectly as expected, because sometimes I get a dash result (-) on the display and that burner turns off. This is when I put high heat on a large cast-iron pan at a burner at the back; these are medium sized burners. Later, when I give away the cast iron and get stainless induction-ready pans I expect this problem to disappear. Other than that, it appears to work fine. Bad news: it gave a lot of medium-voltage shocks when ground got disconnected. Last week while preparing for the countertops to be installed (coming soon), I moved the cooktop to an adjacent cabinet. To do this, I lifted the cooktop a couple inches, moved it sideways and placed it onto a horizontal surface. I did not disconnect it electrically and I did not turn its circuit off. The cooktop was not turned on; its circuit still had voltage. Later that day I received an electric shock, more than once, intermittently, before I found the loose green wire. The cooktop's thick green cable and the building's romex single-strand ground wire (also green) had gotten disconnected. By sliding the cooktop over, this moved the sheathed cable and this caused the ground wire (green) to get disconnected when the wire nut loosened. I did not turn the cooktop on during that day. I did not turn the cooktop on during that interval of time when it had been moved and its ground wire was not connected. The cooktop was never turned on while I was looking at it to determine the problem and find the loose ground wire. I am the only person who operates the cooktop; no-one turned on the cooktop. Just f.y.i. since I placed the cooktop onto metal it was easy to receive shocks, without touching the cooktop's housing. The shocks were not 230V in intensity. I have enough experience to know that this level of voltage was not as big as 230V. My guess is that it was much less than 115V. My guess is that it was more than 20V, but how much more I don't know. Here is the interesting part: I'm wondering how an appliance which is not in operation can allow to leak or discharge or let loose that much current through its ground wire. The fact that there was more than one zap is the thing that is making me look into this a lot. Those who know more about these things can tell me if it is normal for a ground connection to be the route for excess charge to be released, -- AND more than once -- while the device is not ON and also has not been turned on between the intermittent shocks. At first I thought it was not normal but maybe understandable, but when i got another "intermittent" shock I really started thinking there may be something more to it. Now I'm wondering if it is constantly consuming electricity when not turned on, by sending pulses into the ground. I'm also wondering if this can cause premature failure. This can become important at some point. An appliance should not be sending pulses into the ground wire. I'm willing to do some diagnosis with multimeters and power meters. I like the __ and would gladly have another one of the same 24" size, if it comes to replacing this one. --- .

Lou, I am impressed. Sounds like you have everything covered. I can't find anything wrong with your plan. The only thing is the bond wire does not have to be 18" deep in a trench. It literally can be on the ground. I usually try and get it a few inches under the surface since typically it is well away from any traffic areas. If it is in a traffic area then several inches down would be a good idea.

2008 NEC 250.130 Equipment Grounding Conductor Connections. Equipment grounding conductor connections at the source of separately derived systems shall be made in accordance with 250.30(A)(1). Equipment grounding conductor connections at service equipment shall be made as indicated in 250.130(A) or (B). For replacement of non– grounding-type receptacles with grounding-type receptacles and for branch-circuit extensions only in existing installations that do not have an equipment grounding conductor in the branch circuit, connections shall be equipment grounding conductor in the branch circuit, connections shall be permitted as indicated in 250.130(C) (C) Nongrounding Receptacle Replacement or Branch Circuit Extensions. The equipment grounding conductor of a grounding-type receptacle or a branch-circuit extension shall be permitted to be connected to any of the following: (1) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode system as described in 250.50 (2) Any accessible point on the grounding electrode conductor (3) The equipment grounding terminal bar within the enclosure where the branch circuit for the receptacle or branch circuit originates (4) For grounded systems, the grounded service conductor within the service equipment enclosure (5) For ungrounded systems, the grounding terminal bar within the service equipment enclosure FPN: See 406.3(D) for the use of a ground-fault circuitinterrupting type of receptacle. 406.3 General Installation Requirements. Receptacle outlets shall be located in branch circuits in accordance with Part III of Article 210. General installation requirements shall be in accordance with 406.3(A) through (F). (D) Replacements. Replacement of receptacles shall comply with 406.3(D)(1), (D)(2), and (D)(3) as applicable. (1) Grounding-Type Receptacles. Where a grounding means exists in the receptacle enclosure or an equipment grounding conductor is installed in accordance with 250.130(C), grounding-type receptacles shall be used and shall be connected to the equipment grounding conductor in accordance with 406.3(C) or 250.130(C). (2) Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters. Ground-fault circuit-interrupter protected receptacles shall be provided where replacements are made at receptacle outlets that are required to be so protected elsewhere in this Code. (3) Non–Grounding-Type Receptacles. Where attachment to an equipment grounding conductor does not exist in the receptacle enclosure, the installation shall comply with (D)(3)(a), (D)(3)(b), or (D)(3)(c). (a) A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with another non–grounding-type receptacle(s). (b) A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a ground-fault circuit interruptertype of receptacle(s). These receptacles shall be marked "No Equipment Ground." An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected from the ground-fault circuitinterrupter-type receptacle to any outlet supplied from the ground-fault circuit-interrupter receptacle. (c) A non–grounding-type receptacle(s) shall be permitted to be replaced with a grounding-type receptacle(s) where supplied through a ground-fault circuit interrupter. Grounding-type receptacles supplied through the groundfault circuit interrupter shall be marked "GFCI Protected" and "No Equipment Ground." An equipment grounding conductor shall not be connected between the groundingtype receptacles.

The green wire is the electrical ground for the new fixture. The bare ground wire is the ground for the metal box (required by code for metal boxes). You just connect them both together with the bare ground from your 120 volt wiring. However, for your situation I'm not really sure you have 120 volt wiring and a standard box. All I see in the picture is lamp cord. What exactly are we seeing in the picture? Is it a new fixture housing just laying on a counter or is it mounted on something? Do you have a picture of your NM house wiring? Bruce