Though I believe kanmkk is a transient, "one hit wonder", I will address the issue in hopes somebody will benefit from it. While the wiring diagram provided by corvetteguy might not be the "same" as for the Huskee in the OP, it is nonetheless "generic enough" to serve as a guide for hunting down a short circuit. If I were doing the search, I would have my camera with me to shoot photos of the configuration of the wiring at each component and/or draw a sketch of the same so I would know exactly how the wires were routed, and how they connected to the component. When checking for a short, it is sometimes neccesary to disconnect a wiring harness section from one or more components so the harness can be brought out into the "open" for a close inspection. So you'll be able to return the harness to its previous location and with the proper routing, photos are great, and a sketch with notes is a good addition or substitute. I do both. In looking for a short, you need to use all due safety precautions, you already know there is some kind of fault in the system, or you wouldn't be doing this. In regard to safety around the battery, you should disconnect the BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE from the battery BEFORE you begin your search. This way, you will be working with an "inert" electrical system during the process of disconnecting/reconnecting wiring and/or electrical components. The BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE can be reconnected at any time in the search if you want to check whether the fuse still "blows". On a typical small tractor battery, I use either a small vise grips plier, or an alligator type spring clamp to hold the BATTERY NEGATIVE CABLE in place on the battery post during the search instead of using the normal bolt and nut. The vise grips or alligator clamp allow you to "snatch" the cable away quickly if you need to. To perform the checks by the following method, you will need an ohm meter, or a "continuity" tester. I prefer a continuity tester that has an audible beep or tone indicating continuity because you can use it in confined areas where reading the visual scale may be difficult. Continuity testers that use an LED indicator are good too. Some continuity testers feature both the audible and LED, some have both and an ohm meter as well. All continuity testers and ohm meters have an internal battery for power and should never be used to check continuity with the vehicle battery connected to the electrical system. OK, disconnect the battery negative cable and let's start looking. If the system fues is blown or removed, install a good fuse of the proper Ampacity. Step 1. Beginning at the key switch, disconnect the entire wiring harness from the switch if a single plug connector is used by the OEM. If individual terminals are used, disconnect the terminal that corresponds to the "B" terminal on the key switch in the furnished diagram. Isolating the key switch in this step will test for a short in the wiring between the fuse and the "B" terminal of the key switch. Connect one lead of the continuity tester to the DISCONNECTED battery negative CABLE, or any other good, clean, unpainted metal surface of the frame of tractor. Test the CONTINUITY TESTER by touching a few other surfaces that you know should be "continuous" with the ground system of the tractor. Essentially, if you are connected to a ground surface anywhere on the vehicle, the tester should show continuity whenever you touch any other ground surface of the vehicle. If the tester shows to be working and that the ground system of the vehicle is "sound", we can begin testing some wiring now. Leave one lead of the tester connected to ground and touch the other test lead end to the wire that connects to the "B" terminal of the key switch (touch the wire, not the key switch). If the tester indicates continuity, it means there is a short to ground somewhere in this circuit. To further check for the location of the short, go to the ammeter (if present) and disconnect both wires at the ammeter terminals. Touch the free lead of the continuity tester to either wire terminal on the ammeter, if the tester indicates continuity, the ammeter is shorted internally. If the ammeter shows to be good, touch the tester lead to either of the wires that you disconnected from the ammeter. If one of the wires shows continuity, that wire/circuit is shorted to ground and you will now have to trace that wire physically to locate the short. Logical places to look are where the wire harness bends around a metal surface edge or goes through a hole in a metal surface. If this test does not indicate a short, go to the next step. Step 2. Go to the key switch. Make sure the key switch is in the OFF position. Connect one lead of the continuity tester to the GROUND TERMINAL of the key switch. On the wiring diagram provided, this terminal is "G". This terminal is where the key switch gets furnished with its connection to the vehicle ground, but we don't need for the switch to have an actual connection to ground to do the following tests, the key switch could be tested even if it were removed from the vehicle and placed on a workbench (non metallic bench). First, check the tester by touching the two leads together (you always want to know that the tester works beforehand). With one test lead on "G" terminal, touch the other lead to the "M" terminal on the switch. You SHOULD HAVE continuity between the "G" & "M" terminals at this time because continuity between those two terminals is what "kills" the ignition spark to stop the engine. Leaving one test lead connected to the "G" terminal, touch the other lead to the "B" terminal of the switch. You should NOT HAVE continuity between these two terminals. If you DO HAVE continuity, the key switch is shorted to ground internally. I expect a short to be found in Step 1 or Step 2 if the fuse was blowing with the key switch in the OFF position. If this test does not reveal a short, we will go to Step 3. (to be posted later if the first two tests sessions do not locate a short).

Are you just looking at an induction cooktop (If so, which one), or are you looking at an Induction Range? all of the manufacturers "figure worst case" when computing the electrical service. They figure you are boosting all the burners at the same time(Those that don't share power boosts) along with the oven/ovens turned to the highest settings or self clean. We have had our Electrolux Icon Induction cooktop for 6 months now, I beleive it required 40 amps. I never use the boost as the thing is amazingly fast without it---I used it at first ---just to show off with the neighbors---put a paper towel under the pot, added a cup of water, and kicked her to full boost---they were amazed at how fast the bubbles first formed and then boiled. As the induction cooktop only heats the pot, not itself, or the surrounding area, it is very efficient. You will see posts on this site where people mentioning a lot of the gas flames going around the pot and with it the heat. According to different sites, I have checked, Induction is the most energy efficient way to cook---It has been used in Europe for many years, as they have the jump on us when it comes to energy efficiency---they had to be efficient in many parts of Europe---they aren't blessed with the energy resources we have or the "Comparatively Low" prices of energy that the US has. We have a 2700 sq ft house, S Calif---have not had to run AC--so far this year, and our last electric bill was $55 and that is running the induction cooktop, most every day. Hope this helps!! Gary

fred1944? Hmmm, I wonder what that 44 stands for,,, pants size maybe? the 19 is his IQ, I'm sure of that, just can't figure out that other number. Well either way, its good to finally see him spelling on the level of a second grader. Keep practicing freddy, oppps I mean fred,, six letters is way to long a word. :-) Just curious fred,, whats with your fasination with the male rectum? You bring it up in all your posts. Perhaps you should try to find a proctologists forum or maybe a,,, nah,,could it be?!!!

Gray area. Since it didn't do this from the day it was installed, it is unlikely that it is actually wired wrong. Therefore, a component has failed (I'm guessing top heating element as shorted internally). It's two screws, two wires, and a big nut. Either is qualified to find the problem and replace it, but the plumber is more likely to already have a replacement in stock, so I personally would aim this at the plumber. Re-reading your original post, it's 7 months old, there's probably a warranty, so call back whoever installed it (most likely a plumber).